[TR] Mt. Washington (OR) - SouthEast Spur variation 8/8/2009

[YocumRidge]

Trip: Mt. Washington (OR) - SouthEast Spur variation

 

Date: 8/8/2009

 

Trip Report:

08/08/09

Mt. Washington (Oregon Cascades)

SouthEast Spur (5.6?)

 

After spending most weekends out of state this summer, I wanted to climb something close by for a change. Myself and Robert York formed the plot to do the SouthEast Spur on Mt. Washington in one day. None of us were on the route before so the route finding was mostly based on maps and a vague description given in “Oregon High”.

 

We started at the Hortens lake TH at 7 a.m. on some sort of a trail

 

Wild Strawberries at the Hortens lake TH:

 

that quickly transformed into the most outstanding bushwhack through the fallen trees once we crossed the creek.

 

Finally we got a glimpse of the mountain:

 

 

and kept moving along the creek and up to the talus field on the east side of the mountain. A big mistake that cost us some time.

 

We made our way up to the pass (between Mt. Washington and its satellite) to realize that we now need to descend 800 feet to get to the SE snowfields. Rapping down looked dodgy so we settled on some loose rock switch backs instead. Finally we crossed a couple of boulder and snow fields below the SouthEast Buttress (5.8):

 

and began approaching of what was looking like the start of the SouthEast Spur:

 

 

The start did not however appeal to us since it was buried inside of the 15 ft deep moat

and so we gave a try to a south crack variation of the standard SE spur:

 

followed by a sketchy traverse to get back on solid rock.

 

 

The Oregon High called for 7-8 etc. pitches of “nice alpine rock”.

The first 7-8 pitches with a nice knife edge mid section can indeed be defined as such but “ETC” is actually standing for another 8 pitches of loose “X”-rated crap and one unplanned painful night on the mountain. And that was not bivying! Being strapped to a tree on a hanging belay for 7 hours with the temperatures hitting 30s trying to catch some sleep was not fun.

 

Three Fingered Jack off our O/N spot in the morning:

 

We reached the summit around noon the next day:

 

Big Lake from the summit:

 

 

and rapped down via the North Face direct:

 

and then took the northwest approach down to the Big Lake TH plus another 3 miles on the FS road 512 back to the rig.

 

Summary: 17 miles total approach, 16 pitches, 2 days, food and water for one day, bleeding blisters.

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Alpine rack (up to #2), slings and O/N hanging belay.

 

Approach Notes:

Do not take the approach to the east side of the mountain to stay away from the pass but continue on the Hortens lake trail for another mile or two after crossing the first creek. Bushwhack westwards from that point towards the SE side.

[ivan]

hey, at least you had the appropriate partner to alpine-spoon w/?

[YocumRidge]

As defined by your prior experience of the route or?

[ivan]

As defined by your prior experience of the route or?

hey, my name's paul and this is between ya'll!

 

perhaps i shoulda said "gender" n' not "partner?" i *hate* the homo-huddle

[sweatinoutliquor]

Damn those etc. pitches... Good story though!

[OldManRock]

Normally I would make the following comments by PM, but in this case since references to Oregon High are incorrect, I will just go for it - The TR starts out giving the rating as 5.6? - It is clearly stated in Ore High its 5.5 - Then the words "vague description" show up, not sure but like each foot and hand hold needed to be specified - Next its Hortense lake not Hortens lake - Also the a "sort of trail", and while its not the PCT it a very clear trail - Then you say you crossed the creek, if you you had looked at page 72 in Ore High you would clearly see the climbers trail on the North side of the creek - So why did you go to the Southside ? - When you got to the notch between the yellow peak and Mt Washington, if you had looked around just a little, you would have seen the lava tube that when followed down, puts you right where its easy to head over to the start of the climb - You say you passed SouthEast Buttress - Its the East Buttress - You get to the start of the climb - Your on the route (I think) and you put in quotation marks, the following three words (nice alpine rock)- Jeff's uses the words "good rock" only for the first 200 feet then it makes clear that the rock quality is downhill - As for the 16 pitches, when my friend and I did the 3rd ascent of the route in 1963, we used a 120' rope which was standard, and we did it in 12 - I have done since with a longer rope in less - Were you doing some traverses ? - And finally I have never heard of anybody biouacing on this route in the last 50 plus years I have been climbing - Comparing your TR with the guide, it seems you really did not read it at all.

[billcoe]

Maybe Jeff will comment.

[YocumRidge]

Normally I would make the following comments by PM, but in this case since references to Oregon High are incorrect, I will just go for it - The TR starts out giving the rating as 5.6? - It is clearly stated in Ore High its 5.5 - Then the words "vague description" show up, not sure but like each foot and hand hold needed to be specified - Next its Hortense lake not Hortens lake - Also the a "sort of trail", and while its not the PCT it a very clear trail - Then you say you crossed the creek, if you you had looked at page 72 in Ore High you would clearly see the climbers trail on the North side of the creek - So why did you go to the Southside ? - When you got to the notch between the yellow peak and Mt Washington, if you had looked around just a little, you would have seen the lava tube that when followed down, puts you right where its easy to head over to the start of the climb - You say you passed SouthEast Buttress - Its the East Buttress - You get to the start of the climb - Your on the route (I think) and you put in quotation marks, the following three words (nice alpine rock)- Jeff's uses the words "good rock" only for the first 200 feet then it makes clear that the rock quality is downhill - As for the 16 pitches, when my friend and I did the 3rd ascent of the route in 1963, we used a 120' rope which was standard, and we did it in 12 - I have done since with a longer rope in less - Were you doing some traverses ? - And finally I have never heard of anybody biouacing on this route in the last 50 plus years I have been climbing - Comparing your TR with the guide, it seems you really did not read it at all.

 

OK, I am getting ready for the traffic violation hearing defense later this month so I might as well start here...

 

I apologize for hurting your feelings and for not following the SE Spur route according to Ore High and memorizing the references.

 

The specific points are addressed as follows.

 

1. "The TR starts out giving the rating as 5.6? - It is clearly stated in Ore High its 5.5"

 

Does the first pitch (pic shown) that we were forced to take due to the current conditions look like 5.5 or 5.6 to you? My TR specifically states that the beginning of the climb was a south variation of the standard route and after climbing it I would define it as a crux pitch and rate as a 5.8 thence "5.6?" given in the TR. I am free to climb whatever I choose to.

 

2. "Then the words "vague description" show up, not sure but like each foot and hand hold needed to be specified"

 

Misinterpretation: the "vague description" obviously refers to the approach route finding in the current context and not to the foot and handholds.

 

3. "Next its Hortense lake not Hortens lake"

 

Misspelling noted: Thank you very much!

 

4. "Also the a "sort of trail", and while its not the PCT it a very clear trail"

 

There were very likely to be a very clear trail in 1963 or in 1991 but after recent forest fires, it is just not there at some places anymore.

 

 

5. "Then you say you crossed the creek, if you had looked at page 72 in Ore High you would clearly see the climbers trail on the North side of the creek"

 

Yes, I had looked at the page 72 for the beta as I did talk to the actual climbers who climbed the SouthEast Spur last year and as I did check other sources of the info on the approach with one general consensus being that there is No climbers trail on the North side of the creek (which BTW has completely dried out at this point and does look like an eroded trail). The fact however remains life tends to change in 2009 since 1963 or 1991.

 

6."So why did you go to the Southside ?"

 

Misstatement: We did NOT go to the southside of the mountain but we did take a south variation of the first pitch.

My TR and pics clearly show that we approached the E/NE side of the mountain by bushwhacking along the north side of the creek and then headed up south to the notch and then descended to the boulder field by zigzagging.

 

7. "You say you passed SouthEast Buttress - Its the East Buttress"

Noted: Thank you very much!

 

8. "Jeff's uses the words "good rock" only for the first 200 feet then it makes clear that the rock quality is downhill"

 

I was hit by one such "good rock" right at the first 50 feet off the ground and oh boy that hurt for weeks.

 

9. "As for the 16 pitches, when my friend and I did the 3rd ascent of the route in 1963, we used a 120' rope which was standard, and we did it in 12 - I have done since with a longer rope in less - Were you doing some traverses?"

 

Obviously we were doing some traverses in search for more solid stretches (and whoever wants to stay alive would not have?).

 

10. "And finally I have never heard of anybody biouacing on this route in the last 50 plus years I have been climbing"

 

Neither did I. But when you have to take your time and improvise to avoid the rock falls as well as checking out each single hand and foothold, it might take longer than expected. And I am not talking about the holds being solid here, what I am referring to is that thin line between whether the hold will break off or not on you. By the time the darkness hit and the summit is not even close, climbing up and avoiding the choss are becoming increasingly difficult if done in the dark with a headlamp.

 

11. "Comparing your TR with the guide, it seems you really did not read it at all."

 

I obviously did not otherwise I would have copied and pasted it right into the TR!

Edited September 3, 2009 by mitochondria100

[ivan]

don't let the bastards getcha down there, mighty mitocondria!

 

but seriously, go north and climb some good, clean stone, eh? all the or-e-gon slag heaps are cautionary tales wrought into rotten rock!

[YocumRidge]

but seriously, go north and climb some good, clean stone, eh? all the or-e-gon slag heaps are cautionary tales wrought into rotten rock!

 

Already doing it: north or south for that matter.

I just wish my boss would understand the concept that climbing is not like taking the time off, right?

[pink]

quit your job

 

[corvallisclimb]

but seriously, go north and climb some good, clean stone, eh? all the or-e-gon slag heaps are cautionary tales wrought into rotten rock!

 

 

for real?!?!?! oregon rock climbing rivals yosemite!!!

[YocumRidge]

quit your job

 

It is nice to be independently wealthy but I am not.

[pink]

im independently spirited

[YocumRidge]

im independently spirited

you win then!

[pink]

i never win anything

[YocumRidge]

i never win anything

join my club

[Buckaroo]

WAY TO GO!! Toughing it out to summit!

 

I know some guys that would have turned around.

 

nice TR also

 

""And that was not bivying!""

 

yeah it is, that's hard core alpine, it's called a "forced bivy" when things don't go exactly as planned and you bivy without real bivy gear. IE no sleeping bags.

 

And CC needs to fix it's automated naming that goes with a member's post count. You don't look like a journey"man" to me

[pink]

so, how's your wife buckaroo?

[YocumRidge]

WAY TO GO!! Toughing it out to summit!

 

I know some guys that would have turned around.

 

nice TR also

 

""And that was not bivying!""

 

yeah it is, that's hard core alpine, it's called a "forced bivy" when things don't go exactly as planned and you bivy without real bivy gear. IE no sleeping bags.

 

And CC needs to fix it's automated naming that goes with a member's post count. You don't look like a journey"man" to me

 

Thanks but in this particular case, getting to the summit and then back down the North face was the only way to get off that mountain.

We were far off the ground to downclimb it safely and there were no way to rap off there either. And of course we did not come across anyone en route (because like Ivan noted all smart people go "north").

 

RE: forced bivy. Right on - no sleeping bags, only day packs to sleep on and one 60 m rope that was knit into the emergency blanket to stay warm.

 

I feel I am a bona fide "journeyman" because I only lead climb 5.10s.

[ivan]

but seriously, go north and climb some good, clean stone, eh? all the or-e-gon slag heaps are cautionary tales wrought into rotten rock!

 

 

for real?!?!?! oregon rock climbing rivals yosemite!!!

yes, rivals. rivals in the sense that the portland beavers could be rivals on the new york yankees

[OldManRock]

Since reading mitochondria100's rebutal to my post, and having Ivan called me a bastard, I decided to send a PM to her (which I should have done first) to basicly say I am sorry for 90% percent of my comments - I do wish that Jeff's Oregon High had not been misquoted(nice alpine rock), but after reading her other TR's and her rebutal, I'm sure it was not done on purpose. The PM has been sent - No more rants for me.

[billcoe]

Don't let it bother you Gary, Ivan thinks everyone is a bastard. This is only unusual insomuch as he seems to be a pretty good guy himself. It use to be much more of an exclusive club let me tell you.....

 

regards to all

 

[ivan]

i was just quoting bono ya'll!

 

does jeff describe the west ridge as "nice alpine rock" 'cuz that would be very illustrating for me

[ols]

The SE Spur of Washington is still one of Oregon's stellar alpine climbs, good rock, GARBAGE rock and all. It's a rare line that few will succeed at because of the difficulties, such as access and length of time to complete in a day.

I have rapped off the route even after being hundreds of feet up the route because of approaching storm clouds, and have even rope-soloed the entire climb on another trip.

It is also possible to exit over right below the summit about 200'+ and catch the north ridge a bit early to avoid some of the junk.