Joseph H......beacon question

[kevbone]

How may lead bolts have you placed at Beacon?

 

[JosephH]

One, not for myself, which I then removed after you said you didn't like it. Your point?

[kevbone]

Not for yourself? Who then for? Jim?

[kevbone]

My point is. You ramble about my ethics.....yet my lack of drilling out at our precious Beacon shows my ethics. IMO. You have drilled a lead bolt at Beacon, and I have not. I have shown restraint and you have not. I am good and you are bad.

 

[JosephH]

For the stars Olson gave 'Reasonable Richard' in his guide, on the ramp up, which is about the only place someone can get suckered into a real bad decking situation by a ridiculous star-rating on one of the few 5.9's out there. And yes, it was on Opdycke's recommendation.

 

Your point?

[RuMR]

he doesn't have one...quit talking with him...its too painful to watch...

[JosephH]

That's pretty pointless for a guy that wants to bolt all the lines up to Jensen Ridge. I'd say you'd bolt the shit out of Beacon left to your own devices.

[JosephH]

That's good advice RuMR. He got his answer.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

For the stars Olson gave 'Reasonable Richard' in his guide, on the ramp up, which is about the only place someone can get suckered into a real bad decking situation by a ridiculous star-rating on one of the few 5.9's out there. And yes, it was on Opdycke's recommendation.

 

Your point?

 

I thought - as per the Unidawg manifesto - you must either do the route "as is", top-rope it, or "leave it alone" - not add a bolt.

[kevbone]

For the stars Olson gave 'Reasonable Richard' in his guide, on the ramp up, which is about the only place someone can get suckered into a real bad decking situation by a ridiculous star-rating on one of the few 5.9's out there. And yes, it was on Opdycke's recommendation.

 

Your point?

 

I thought - as per the Unidawg manifesto - you must either do the route "as is", top-rope it, or "leave it alone" - not add a bolt.

 

 

Wow....I agree. Yet JH took it upon himself to add a bolt to someone elses climb without asking....mmmmm ethics????

[kevbone]

That's pretty pointless for a guy that wants to bolt all the lines up to Jensen Ridge. I'd say you'd bolt the shit out of Beacon left to your own devices.

 

What are you talking about? I wanted to "REPLACE" the fixed gear that was taken out. And I asked the guy who did the FA and he told me fine. I hardly say I wanted to bolt the shit out of it.

[JosephH]

For the stars Olson gave 'Reasonable Richard' in his guide, on the ramp up, which is about the only place someone can get suckered into a real bad decking situation by a ridiculous star-rating on one of the few 5.9's out there. And yes, it was on Opdycke's recommendation.

 

Your point?

 

I thought - as per the Unidawg manifesto - you must either do the route "as is", top-rope it, or "leave it alone" - not add a bolt.

 

Really had nothing to do with ethics - it had to do with a really bad guide book rating suckering people onto one of the few 5.9s at Beacon. Again, it's about the only place at Beacon you could get suckered in that way and deck. The bolt was about folks crossing over from sport not being able to claim a route is obviously and irresponsibly dangerous compared to it's recommendation in Olson's guide in the event of an accident. No other route is so accessible, highly rated, and poorly protected [and mediocre].

[KaskadskyjKozak]

For the stars Olson gave 'Reasonable Richard' in his guide, on the ramp up, which is about the only place someone can get suckered into a real bad decking situation by a ridiculous star-rating on one of the few 5.9's out there. And yes, it was on Opdycke's recommendation.

 

Your point?

 

I thought - as per the Unidawg manifesto - you must either do the route "as is", top-rope it, or "leave it alone" - not add a bolt.

 

Really had nothing to do with ethics - it had to do with a really bad guide book rating suckering people onto one of the few 5.9s at Beacon. Again, it's about the only place at Beacon you could get suckered in that way and deck. The bolt was about folks crossing over from sport not being able to claim a route is obviously and irresponsibly dangerous compared to it's recommendation in Olson's guide in the event of an accident. No other route is so accessible, highly rated, and poorly protected [and mediocre].

 

Wait, so there is no uniform, inflexible position on this? Wow, I wonder what Unidawg has to say about this...

[kevbone]

For the stars Olson gave 'Reasonable Richard' in his guide, on the ramp up, which is about the only place someone can get suckered into a real bad decking situation by a ridiculous star-rating on one of the few 5.9's out there. And yes, it was on Opdycke's recommendation.

 

Your point?

 

I thought - as per the Unidawg manifesto - you must either do the route "as is", top-rope it, or "leave it alone" - not add a bolt.

 

Really had nothing to do with ethics - it had to do with a really bad guide book rating suckering people onto one of the few 5.9s at Beacon. Again, it's about the only place at Beacon you could get suckered in that way and deck. The bolt was about folks crossing over from sport not being able to claim a route is obviously and irresponsibly dangerous compared to it's recommendation in Olson's guide in the event of an accident. No other route is so accessible, highly rated, and poorly protected [and mediocre].

 

 

JH....you are digging yourself a hole here.

[JosephH]

Not really, just telling how it went down and what Opdycke and I were thinking when we did it.

[Pete_H]

 

 

JH....you are digging yourself a hole here.

 

Ha. You've never even made a salient point in your life.

[tvashtarkatena]

Once he googles 'salient', he just might for once.

[G-spotter]

 

 

JH....you are digging yourself a hole here.

 

Ha. You've never even made a salient point in your life.

 

There a particular hole he really digs, though.

[G-spotter]

(_)*(_)

[tvashtarkatena]

OK, OK, we got it, you anaphile.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

(_)*(_)

 

enough with the homoerotic stuff, guys!

 

 

[kevbone]

 

it's about the only place at Beacon you could get suckered in that way and deck. The bolt was about folks crossing over from sport not being able to claim a route is obviously and irresponsibly dangerous compared to it's recommendation in Olson's guide in the event of an accident. No other route is so accessible, highly rated, and poorly protected [and mediocre].

 

 

JH....if you want safe, go climb in the gym.

[pigchampion]

what's wrong with bolting? seems reasonable to protect a route if someone is going to hit the ground. someone was telling me there are some longer routes on the east face that could use quite a few bolts. why is beacon so different than any other crag, i don't get it.

 

i say make climbing safe and save some rescue dollars and a few trips to the emergency room as well.... just a thought.

[kevbone]

Nothing is wrong with bolting. Its "how" it was put in that is the worry.

[Bug]

what's wrong with bolting? seems reasonable to protect a route if someone is going to hit the ground. someone was telling me there are some longer routes on the east face that could use quite a few bolts. why is beacon so different than any other crag, i don't get it.

 

i say make climbing safe and save some rescue dollars and a few trips to the emergency room as well.... just a thought.

You are in the wrong thread.

But while you are at it, why not chip some holds, I mean, big honkin buckets, so we can all be safer on a 5.6?