ultralight ice axe?

[builder206]

I am thinking about getting a CAMP Corsa ice axe for moderate-angle glacier slogs. Are there any drawbacks to a super light ice axe for that use? Any problems making a good self-arrest because of the very light weight? I don't foresee a problem but it would suck to make a mistake because I didn't ask.

 

I see that the pick is shorter on the Corsa than on "normal" axes. That might be one way they shave weight, but maybe a little more penetration can make the diff between stopping and merely slowing down.

 

Are there any super lw axes anyone recommends?

[Dane]

The Corsa gets mixed reviews, some saying it is too light.

 

I have not used it. I do however have a Petzl Sno Racer which I like for easy routes on Rainier @ 15oz and a steel head. I also use the Grivel Air Tech Evo that will climb most anything short of winter water ice. Again with a steel head @ 16oz. Either works well if you can get by with a short axe. I use trekking poles to compliment them on easier ground.

 

Good review of several light weight axes including the Corsa and a similar model from Grivel....here:

 

http://www.sierradescents.com/reviews/axes/camp-usa/corsa.html

 

 

I'm pretty old school. Self arrest is a priority of course and I think the super light axes will work fine for that. But I also find I use the lwt axes more chopping steps in lwt boots or runners to get across hardened early morning or late season snow fields. In those conditions a little more head weight and a steel adze and pick are reassuring.

 

Although following the track up Dissappointment Clever with a Corsa might well make me a believer.

[tomtom]

.

[mkporwit]

Camp also has what they call the Corsa Nanotech -- it has an aluminum shaft but has a steel head, if you're worried about breaking the head. Weight is 8.6oz. Pretty pricey, however, at $140 list.

[builder206]

Cost is no object.

[mkporwit]

So actually it looks like the corsa nanotech just has "nanosteel" extensions on the pick (and adze?), so it is not a steel head... Don't know what the failure modes of such a setup would be...

[mattp]

I like my Grivel Airtec. It is not the lightest option out there but it is a good compromise.

 

I also have a Camp something or other all aluuminum shortie (50 cm) that I sometimes carry when I really don't plan to use it at all but the short length is not good and maybe even unsafe for self arrest (I'm afraid I could hurt my self with the pick being right under my abdomen and it is harder to control when plowing through chunky snow) while the super lightness means it just bounces off whenever I try to swing it at ice.

 

I wouldn't opt for a smaller than standard head.

[Vickster]

Love my Grivel Air Tech. Always wanted an Ushba Titanium ice axe but they arent made anymore I dont think.

[mkporwit]

Love my Grivel Air Tech. Always wanted an Ushba Titanium ice axe but they arent made anymore I dont think.

 

I have one of those in 75cm and love it... their website says they are available

[Zoran]

There is new Grivel (coming to MEC)

 

Looks so good for high altitude

 

Grivel

[genepires]

One disadvantage to the LW heads is strength in the odd case of having to do a little ice climbing while glacier climbing due to crevasses. I saw a guy break his pick off (ultra LW axe)while trying to surmount a small little ice wall on the south side of baker. I know ounces add to pounds and pounds add to misery but does a couple ounces on the axe really matter? Instead of shaving ounces off the gear that should be strong, we could be shaving ounces off of our asses.

 

 

[Kletterhund]

Grivel Air Tech Racing - Light but sturdy with a full strength head.

 

I also have seen folks bust off their chintzy Al picks and be left with little better than a tent stake ...

 

If you are bringing an ice ax you may actually end up using it! Modest weight savings may not be with the very real risk of rendering your ice axe useless.

 

 

[Le Piston]

Take a look also at the Black Diamond Raven Pro. I stopped using my Grivel axe because the Raven Pro head was so much more comfortable to plunge the shaft, arrest with and walk with. It is very light and does everything you could want on glacier slogs without much technical ice or step cutting. I also have the Black Diamond Venom which gives me the option of adding a technical ice pick for steeper alpine ice and snow, but with the standard pick still makes a fine glacier axe.

[builder206]

It does seem that the BD Raven or the Raven Ultimate may be the best choice - very light if not the lightest, and an aluminum head sounds too dicey. The Ushba is heavier but even at $240 does not have the Arc'teryx logo so that's out.

[spotly]

I like my Raven Pro. It's pretty light and performs nicely. I also have a Raven Ultra. I've used it a few times and now it hangs from the gear hook downstairs. It feels way TOO light to me and the spike at the end of the shaft is poorly designed - it jams up wih snow and doesn't give easy penetration, though that's partly due to the weight as well. I'm sure it has it's place somewhere.

 

[Llarian]

Another vote for the Raven Pro. Using it felt like an extension of my arm from the moment I first tried it. I vastly prefer the actual steel spike and head, vs an open spike and aluminum head.

 

 

[spotly]

The Petzl Charlet Snowalker is a nice ixe too. A friend has one and prefers it to the Raven Pro because it's riveted. Haven't heard about any heads falling off the Ravens though, so I'm thinking he was just being contrary

[denningsrogue]

I second the Grivel Air Tech Racing. I had used a BD Raven Pro for 3 seasons and prefer the Grivel because the Adze is larger. When you have to excavate a T slot, it takes far too many wacks with the BD.

[DanO]

I have not used these yet, but thinking of trying them out. I

use ski poles anyway. If I was going to do a long glacier

climb I would probably use my old heavy axe anyway. I think

these would be good for lighter usage.

 

 

http://www.cliffgear.com/details/climbing/iceaxes/1186/all

 

 

 

http://www.backcountryworld.com/showthread.php?t=396&page=2

 

I have used S.A. grips since there introduction 25 yrs. ago. They work good for climbing until the snow becomes very hard.If there is exposure and I am carrying my skis I will switch to an axe and a grip for better self belay protection. DANGER ! this type of tool is minimal at best at arresting a fall! My brother stopped a fall by quickly assuming proven S.A. position and committing to one grip. I have taken 3 slides. My first reaction was to use both grips to stop , but both quickly rotated out of the snowpack!Commiting to one pole-grip using proven S.A. technique was the only way to slow myself to a stop. Practice and quick reaction cannot be over emphisised.The falls were taken in soft slurpie,firm, and very hard snow conditions,all required the same tech. to stop.

[Jonathan_S]

So actually it looks like the corsa nanotech just has "nanosteel" extensions on the pick (and adze?), so it is not a steel head... Don't know what the failure modes of such a setup would be...

I've used my 60cm Camp Corsa Nanotech ice axe for lots of ski mountaineering. The steel insert on the spike makes it far more effective than my older 50cm Camp XLA 210. The steel insert on the pick seems like it would be far more effective than an all-alu head, although I haven't tested it with lots of self-arrest practice to confirm that. (The adze is all-alu.)

Compared to my 60cm Raven Pro, the head has far less mass, which of course is both a plus and minuses re efficiency and effectiveness. However, regarding possible failure/breakage, all of these axes are meeting the B spec, so I think any speculation beyond that is just, well, speculation.

 

Oh, as far as the slight curve in the shaft, and the sandpaper-like coating on the lower shaft, not quite sure what's up with that, although doesn't seem to be a drawback at least.

[Vickster]

Love my Grivel Air Tech. Always wanted an Ushba Titanium ice axe but they arent made anymore I dont think.

 

I have one of those in 75cm and love it... their website says they are available

 

I contacted Ushba and they are in fact no longer in production. There is a guy there who has a few in his private collection but he would not even quote me a price for one....

Edited July 19, 2009 by Vickster