Snow Creek Wall - Grand Arch

[AlpineMonkey]

We backed off today because it was too scarry. People in the old days had no fear I guess. I wasent about to risk running it out about 30 feet up no pro, 5.10+(?) slabs, risking taking a 60+ foot wipper directly on to the belay of 2 old quarter inch bolts. F-that route. I think Conor has some good pics to post soon.

[dberdinka]

You locs need to be spending your time scrubbing and retro-ing that shit. Clean up that stellar looking 3-pitch crack route on Easter Tower while you're at it.

[kublaicon]

 

Fuck that Route... could be stellar with some new bolts and not 30 foot .10+ runout slabs.

[powderhound]

thanks for sharing, Craig keep me in mindin the coming months if you need a P.

[AlpineMonkey]

Bottom Line: Any route with the name "Grand" in it is probably just plain scarry.

[DRep]

Brushes, crowbar, and bolt kit. Have fun!

[mattp]

That anchor may not be quite as bad as you think. The 1/4" with the square nut on it will probably come out pretty easy but that buttonhead maybe not - I can't tell from the picture but it looks like one of those 5/16 buttonheads that are surprisingly good 25 years later and a real pain in the neck when it comes time to pull them for replacement or simple removal. Few would complain if you took a flintstone rig up there and replaced one or added a fattie, though.

[Pete_H]

Craig - I didn't think the moves above that anchor were much harder than 10a (though indeed a bit r/o!). The "grand" arch is pretty mungy and we couldn't figure out where the route went after that pitch. The route has potential and if "rediscovered" (cleaned, retro'd) could become a high-quality trade route.

[DPS]

A lot of birds in those pictures.

[Bug]

Time to close that part too.

It is good to see other parts of the wall being visited. Use will clear up some of these problems.

[Off_White]

Do you guys out there keep your hair so short so the ticks have nowhere to hide?

 

Just wondering because Mattp probably found a half dozen (not embedded yet) over the weekend at Mazama which had us feeling twitchy as hell.

[AlpineMonkey]

I was affraid about climbing out 30 feet on slab with bad holds and then being stuck out there. Unless there is a hidden crack, the dihedral to the right of the belay station looked like a flaring thin thing. I couldnt tell if I would be able to get pro in it or not.

 

I pulled 4 ticks off me, I think Conor had about the same. The reason why my hair is so short is because my mom butchered my hair the night before trying to give me a haircut. I had to shave it all off to cover the mistakes.

[Peter_Puget]

Isn't the "tick list" another thread?

[obwan]

Great trip report! You all used GOOD judgement, don't trust a big fall on those rusty spinners - nice photos and nice haircut! Just think you are alive to tell about it.