AlpineMonkey Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 We backed off today because it was too scarry. People in the old days had no fear I guess. I wasent about to risk running it out about 30 feet up no pro, 5.10+(?) slabs, risking taking a 60+ foot wipper directly on to the belay of 2 old quarter inch bolts. F-that route. I think Conor has some good pics to post soon. Quote
dberdinka Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 You locs need to be spending your time scrubbing and retro-ing that shit. Clean up that stellar looking 3-pitch crack route on Easter Tower while you're at it. Quote
kublaicon Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 Â Fuck that Route... could be stellar with some new bolts and not 30 foot .10+ runout slabs. Quote
powderhound Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 thanks for sharing, Craig keep me in mindin the coming months if you need a P. Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted May 4, 2009 Author Posted May 4, 2009 Bottom Line: Any route with the name "Grand" in it is probably just plain scarry. Quote
mattp Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 That anchor may not be quite as bad as you think. The 1/4" with the square nut on it will probably come out pretty easy but that buttonhead maybe not - I can't tell from the picture but it looks like one of those 5/16 buttonheads that are surprisingly good 25 years later and a real pain in the neck when it comes time to pull them for replacement or simple removal. Few would complain if you took a flintstone rig up there and replaced one or added a fattie, though. Quote
Pete_H Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 Craig - I didn't think the moves above that anchor were much harder than 10a (though indeed a bit r/o!). The "grand" arch is pretty mungy and we couldn't figure out where the route went after that pitch. The route has potential and if "rediscovered" (cleaned, retro'd) could become a high-quality trade route. Quote
Bug Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 Time to close that part too. It is good to see other parts of the wall being visited. Use will clear up some of these problems. Quote
Off_White Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 Do you guys out there keep your hair so short so the ticks have nowhere to hide? Â Just wondering because Mattp probably found a half dozen (not embedded yet) over the weekend at Mazama which had us feeling twitchy as hell. Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted May 4, 2009 Author Posted May 4, 2009 I was affraid about climbing out 30 feet on slab with bad holds and then being stuck out there. Unless there is a hidden crack, the dihedral to the right of the belay station looked like a flaring thin thing. I couldnt tell if I would be able to get pro in it or not. Â I pulled 4 ticks off me, I think Conor had about the same. The reason why my hair is so short is because my mom butchered my hair the night before trying to give me a haircut. I had to shave it all off to cover the mistakes. Quote
obwan Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 Great trip report! You all used GOOD judgement, don't trust a big fall on those rusty spinners - nice photos and nice haircut! Just think you are alive to tell about it. Quote
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