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rperitore

mt buckner

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rperitore:

The only way around Sahale Pk from Sahale Arm is a leveltraverse to Boston Basin. Since this traverse crosses avalancheprone slopes, approaching from Sahale Arm makes little sense.It would be safer and shorter to approach Boston basin directlyvia the trail. There is no high traverse around Sahale Peak.Once above the arm, the only way around Sahale is over the top.

In mid-winter, the safest way to get to and from the BostonGlacier is probably to cross Sharkfin col, rappel the eastside, and leave a rope fixed for your return. There may bea cornice there. The only other crossing, high around BostonPeak, would be a gamble in winter conditions.

The 8-14 day forecast is calling for below normal temps andnormal precip. There's really no way to know what the weatherwill be like next week, but since this has been a prettynormal winter (actually above normal precip) I'd bet on theweather being pretty normal. That means plenty of cloudsand precipitation. Avalanche danger will be significant.The mountains may be socked in much of the time, making travelabove timberline difficult.

In my experience, you can fix your objective, or you can fixyour time window, but you cannot fix both. If your buddy iscoming up from Utah, he should be prepared for alternativeactivities, like lift skiing.

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I would be interested in skiing Buckner, but right now it sounds like way too much work and way too much danger.

From what I hear of your plan 3 days is too little time, and like Lowell said the approch over Sahalle is dangerous.

About this time last year I skied into the Cascade Pass parking lot and spent a couple days. We were able to drive the road to mile 20. The first day we had a nice ski from the pass, but that evening a storm rolled in with big winds and the next day we set off a couple small slabs skiing in the trees. We would have died trying to ski anything in the open.

That was a low snow year.

Good luck, and think hard about doing some midweek lift skiing. Its fun even though you may not get a tough guy award.

[ 02-05-2002: Message edited by: AlpineK ]

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Lowell is correct in that you do not go around Sahale Peak from Sahale Arm. You go over the top. You then descend a knife ridge for a bit until you are at the top of the Quien Sabe glacier. At this point the only way over to the Boston Glacier is to traverse very steep slopes of Boston Peak. This would be suicidal in winter. Don't do it because we don't want you to die. This essentially renders approach by Sahale Arm impractical.

I agree that sharkfin col is the only realistic option for the approach. You could do the ascent of Buckner from the sw, but that is problematic too; you will not know what shape the north face is in and you will have to carry over all gear. That would suck for skiing. Personally I think if you have not spent any time in this area before, you are totally underestimating what your objective is. This trip/ski is probably feasible, but April or May would be much more practical. Unfotunately that doesn't make it a winter trip. This probably explains why it still has not been done! Also, I don't think you should expect anyone to come looking for you if you are not back when you say you are! Like Wayne, I do not mean to be discouraging, but I do hope you know what you have bitten off!

Why don't you ski Mt. Stuart instead. That would be a mighty fine (albeit serious) objective.

PS. I used to think I was immortal when I was in my 20's. I'm guessing you are in your 20's too!

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Good luck bro. If you choose not to suffer the long approach (definitely checkout mtnphil.com's most recent trip report) consider the NW side of Mount Shuksan if you're looking for steep, hairball, big mountain skiing. The approach is a matter of hours not days. The North Face, Northwest Couloir and White Salmon Glacier have all been skied.

Though beware, the entire White Salmon valley (and the routes) are total avalanche death traps. I wouldn't be there, or on any other big mtn face, in winter unless avi conditions were practically nonexistant. Particularly watch out for the hanging glacier, that sucker can cut loose in a big way regardless of NWACs reported avalanche conditions.

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quote:

Originally posted by vegetablebelay:
And if rperitore comes back successful, we'll have another legend - we're on our way!
grin.gif" border="0

If he returns successful then they can hang wink.gif" border="0 I spray too much so I am bad boy jesse6.gif. Legend on left Sprayers on right!

I cannot hang with legends or post in the same column rolleyes.gif" border="0

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

If he returns successful then they can hang
wink.gif" border="0
I spray too much so I am bad boy
jesse6.gif
. Legend on left Sprayers on right!

I cannot hang with legends or post in the same column
rolleyes.gif" border="0

Well, you're a legendary sprayer - that should count for something [Moon]

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That's right but you never get the same seriousness or respect confused.gif" border="0

Fuck if I can gut jam up Dragontail and ice climb WI4 with a pick attached to my helmet does that make me a lesser being? Have I accomplished less?

People dont take me serious anymore frown.gif" border="0

[Moon][Moon]

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quote:

Originally posted by Lowell Skoog:
...you can fix your objective, or you can fixyour time window, but you cannot fix both.

I like this.

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quote:

Originally posted by rperitore:
Looking like we'll be up there next week from about Wednesday-Saturday.Full TR upon return.

So.... where is the full TR? You certainly had good weather Wednesday-Saturday.....

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quote:

Originally posted by philfort:

So.... where is the full TR? You certainly had good weather Wednesday-Saturday.....

You know the funny thing is I bet this chute can be skied no problemo. I look back and think just right conditions and person will allow it. I hope he skied it and sprays all over your asses!

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

You know the funny thing is I bet this chute can be skied no problemo. I look back and think just right conditions and person will allow it. I hope he skied it and sprays all over your asses!

Oh I don't think the actual siing of Buckner would be that bad ass. I mean I bet you could fall down the lower 2/3s and be ok. But hiking 14 miles into the parking lot would suck big time and trying to get to the base of the N face could be stupid dangerous.

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quote:

Originally posted by AlpineK:

Oh I don't think the actual siing of Buckner would be that bad ass. I mean I bet you could fall down the lower 2/3s and be ok. But hiking 14 miles into the parking lot would suck big time and trying to get to the base of the N face could be stupid dangerous.

Yeah maybe. But some people are in good shape and dont care about objective dangers. I know plenty of them....

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quote:

Originally posted by David Parker:

In the right conditions, I suppose the east chute could be skiied "no problemo." I wouldn't say that about the west chute. But that's assuming you magically appear on the top with your skis and not a big pack. But you WON'T do that unless you have a helicopter. So if someone skis the North Face of Buckner in winter, I'll call him "bad ass" because it WILL be a "bad ass" trip!

You can call it what you want. All I am saying is that you guys are full of shit if you think some yahoo with no big name cannot do it. I met some dude in canada last month that skis shit like that for breakfast after a long night of drinking and smoking weed.

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quote:

Originally posted by philfort:
Did you see him in action, or did he just tell you that, and you believed it?
grin.gif" border="0

Your comically annoying on this one Phil.

Umm well you can check his credentials if you like. Trust me he can do that wimpy mountain..

[ 02-19-2002: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

You can call it what you want. All I am saying is that you guys are full of shit if you think some yahoo with no big name cannot do it. I met some dude in canada last month that skis shit like that for breakfast after a long night of drinking and smoking weed.

Cavey, Your post immediately following mine leads me to believe you think I said (paraphrase) that only some "big name" skier could do it. I did not. I think there are plenty of people right here on CC that could and would ski it if they could be dropped on top. I would do it on telemark gear in the RIGHT CONDITIONS! Your Canadian friend is no doubt a bad ass! It just seems to me that there are a lot of people who have conveniently looked over at Buckner from Forbiden and seem to think it's no big deal to ski it. It's not the skiing, its the logistics. No matter how you slice it, it's not done "for breakfast"! Maybe Alpine K and I should just go do it and put an end to this thread! I just don't know about doing it in winter. Then again, last week's weather was making me think about it. Since there is no ice climbing to speak of, it's something to consider.

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quote:

Originally posted by David Parker:
Since there is no ice climbing to speak of, it's something to consider.

There is some ice. Photo taken last weekend in the Cascades:SteppyFlow.JPG

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