corvallisclimb Posted April 12, 2010 Author Posted April 12, 2010 I don't really know what we did haha, Alan put it in the book as this... "Adams/Emde Variation (5.8 X) Mixed to 3 inches. You can make and already bad route much worse by following this dangerous variation. From the anchor atop The Quickie, step left past two bolts before stepping back right to a flake system. Climb a freaky, hollow sounding flake the size of a Boeing 737's wing and traverse left across a crumbling slab, arrange a sketchy belay anchor. Traverse far left on easy rock (5.4) before joining the third pitch of the regular route." Quote
billcoe Posted April 14, 2010 Posted April 14, 2010 LOL! I got it. The raincoat is the giveaway....that and the name on the tag. I don't think I would have gotten it without cheating, have done that route perhaps 4-6 times...maybe more. It's a good one when you go to Smith and find the unexpected rain. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted April 14, 2010 Author Posted April 14, 2010 Heh okay I will change the image name from now on. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted April 14, 2010 Author Posted April 14, 2010 oh hey there markd! dig up some pictures... Quote
ivan Posted April 14, 2010 Posted April 14, 2010 ho chi mihn. is that on the red wall at smiff or am i totally making that up? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted April 14, 2010 Author Posted April 14, 2010 ho chi mihn. is that on the red wall at smiff or am i totally making that up? you are so right Quote
ivan Posted April 14, 2010 Posted April 14, 2010 havne't climbed anything on that wall since i started aiding - i've done paper tiger, superslab, amphetamine grip, and moscow - where'zit in realtion to any of those - shit, maybe i'll even buy the guidebook somedya? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted April 14, 2010 Author Posted April 14, 2010 Just left of Peking. One of the three original routes to the top. You would enjoy it a lot about A2 dont need a ton of pins or anything just a couple las and angles maybe a bigger beak or two. P1 5.6 P2 A2 P3 A2 Quote
ivan Posted April 15, 2010 Posted April 15, 2010 must make the gumyb hordes on moscow and superslab doa double take Quote
jlag Posted April 16, 2010 Posted April 16, 2010 Marks' photo is the money pitch on Birds in a Rut. After seeing that i may need to go climb it this weekend. JL Quote
fgw Posted April 16, 2010 Posted April 16, 2010 Tyler, you rappin off the south bunny ear with the north one on the rt? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted April 16, 2010 Author Posted April 16, 2010 Tyler, you rappin off the south bunny ear with the north one on the rt? yup! Quote
corvallisclimb Posted April 16, 2010 Author Posted April 16, 2010 this is is a classic route that deserves MUCH more traffic Quote
g orton Posted June 2, 2010 Posted June 2, 2010 An unnamed 100ft 5.7 sandstone crack in the Callahans. Quote
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