G-spotter Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2009/01/therapy.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) My worst nightmare, hard poorly protected slab climbing. David is clearly a master of the trad game, one has to wonder if there will be some friction over the grade, downgrading it 3 numbers is a hell of a downgrade. Â And why were talking about it, any ideas on what are the hardest slab routes in NA? And no Dreamer won't be on that list. I was thinking of something in Yosemite, maybe a Caldwell route? I heard something about a slab that he repeated on Half Dome that he graded .14. Any thoughts? Edited January 7, 2009 by eldiente Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 He's so very gracious about the downgrade too, it's a nice read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Who cares? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Get lost, punk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hafilax Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 My worst nightmare, hard poorly protected slab climbing. David is clearly a master of the trad game, one has to wonder if there will be some friction over the grade, downgrading it 3 numbers is a hell of a downgrade. Â And why were talking about it, any ideas on what are the hardest slab routes in NA? And no Dreamer won't be on that list. I was thinking of something in Yosemite, maybe a Caldwell route? I heard something about a slab that he repeated on Half Dome that he graded .14. Any thoughts? [nitpick]I would say he's a master of the headpoint game more so than the trad game. He did top rope it a few times and work out the gear first. I'm sure he can onsite damn hard as well but his big accomplishments so far seem to be headpoints.[/nitpick] Â Either way that's a hell of a way to get over an injury. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Who cares? Seeing how this is a climbing related web site, a lot more folks care about topics like this one than, say, who is the lamest singer type threads... That's who! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Well since most of my "best" threads do well with multiple pages.....I would say....YOUR WRONG Dave. Not that is matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Well since most of my "best" threads do well with multiple pages.....I would say....YOUR WRONG Dave. Not that is matters. My point is that poeple who climb, probably, in most cases, come to a climbing web site because that is the type of content they are seeking. If they were looking to see who thinks who is the lamest gee-tar player, they would likely go to a music type web site. I guess that makes YOU WRONG too. But most folks here are used to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Well since most of my "best" threads do well with multiple pages.....I would say....YOUR WRONG Dave. Not that is matters. Is that why most of the forum topics are climbing related? I don't see a specific forum for the lamest-est-es rock and roll topic but maybe I missed it while I was searching for climbing related topics here at cascadeclimbers.com website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Boner, go spray somewhere else. Â Hard slab in NA: Â Someone You're Not (unrepeated) @ Suicide Rock 13a Lurking Fear crux pitches 13c Direct NWF on Half Dome 13c/d or 14a linking p3-4 Â Slab is kinda like OW. After a certain point (around 5.12+) there's not much way to make it harder and still be able to climb it. I can only think of one OW route that has maintained its 5.13 rating (there are also a handful of OW boulder problems at that difficulty). Same deal with slab, not much out there in the 5.13 range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 WTF does a 13d slab climb look like? Overhanging? I've seen many 11s that seem impossibly blank (to me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 No shit. Some "5.11" slabs that dudes climbed back in the day in EB's are pretty fucking ridiculous. Maybe 5.13 is the same just longer and more sustained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Good list of some rather hard slab routes, I hadn't heard of that one at Suicide Rocks. Â Hard slab routes of that grade are hard to imagine. Even in the .11/.12 grade, the wall is already blank on low angle slab. With steep sport, you can at least see the sequence and envision that if you were stronger, you might be able to make the moves go. Â And on that thought, what is the lowest angle slab route that you can think of? I'm thinking it still needs to be an actual pitch, not a 4th class approach pitch. Could there be a 5.10 slab at 50 degrees? I've seen a few routes at Squmish that don't look to be any steeper than 60 and are still rated 5.10ish. Maybe something inTuolumne? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 No, as Bill Clinton explained "is" does matter and I agree with Dave. Â But, I guess when you're more likely to find yourself at a Def Leppard concert than out climbing your perspective is a bit different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hafilax Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 If bouldering counts there's Black Slabbeth in Squamish at like V8(?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) If bouldering counts there's Black Slabbeth in Squamish at like V8(?). Â That's a rad name for a bouldering problem. Yeah boulder problems count, V8? Yikes that's some low angle madness. Edited January 12, 2009 by eldiente Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 Boner, go spray somewhere else. Hard slab in NA:  Someone You're Not (unrepeated) @ Suicide Rock 13a Lurking Fear crux pitches 13c Direct NWF on Half Dome 13c/d or 14a linking p3-4  Slab is kinda like OW. After a certain point (around 5.12+) there's not much way to make it harder and still be able to climb it. I can only think of one OW route that has maintained its 5.13 rating (there are also a handful of OW boulder problems at that difficulty). Same deal with slab, not much out there in the 5.13 range.  You can change the rock type. Stuff like schist or slate has much lower friction than granite.  Supposed "world's hardest slab" 14c in Madagascar is smearing crystals on an almost-vertical granite face; likewise 14a on Half Dome is supposedly 88-89 degrees, just shy of vertical. They may be smearing but it's hard to call something that steep a slab.  On the other hand "The Very Big and the Very Small" 14a/b on Welsh slate is only about 70 degrees in angle, but frictionless smearing and mantling on holds ranging from fingernail to matchstick width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 5.14 time climbing on a 70 degree wall? Is the route covered in ice to get that grade? Â I'm not sure when a slab becomes a face climb. I get frustrated with slab climbing so anytime I'm making moves with smearing feet I say "this slab sucks" even when the route is overhanging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 If bouldering counts there's Black Slabbeth in Squamish at like V8(?). Black Slabbeth, that's classic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 uuughhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 thats not slab climbing...i can see little crystal jugs all over that thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 I can see them too with a little crystal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I don't see a specific forum for the lamest-est-es rock and roll topic but maybe I missed it while I was searching for climbing\ Â Â Its called spray. Â Â Sorry for spraying in a climbing forum...but I am sticking to it. Downgrading a climb that NO ONE posting here will ever climb is point less to discuss. Â but....I do respect most slab climbs, especially if they are 5.13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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