punkass Posted December 16, 2008 Posted December 16, 2008 New to Oregon and the NW but heard that the ice scene should be epic this week. Looking for ice climbing partners that know the area and would be willing to get in some routes this holiday season. I have all my own gear with the exception of ice pro. cell: 415-516-1370 If anyone needs a rope gun...just kidding, but it does look sick. Quote
marcus Posted December 16, 2008 Posted December 16, 2008 A little haiku... "Gorge ice, a precious treasure! Two days driving, bare rock and snow Crown Jewel? Slush consolation..." The wet-n-windy Gorge classic was climbed today with 13cms and a little patience, so go get er - but please remember: 1) Respect RR property and hike in via Rooster Rock SP(~30min). Don't screw up access for everyone just because you're lazy! 2) Leave our cordelette and biner for others to safely rappel from(climber's right, 10ft past topout). 3) P1 bolt anchor climber's left on ledge, 40m(iced over - chop em out) 4) Neutral colored clothing attracts way less attention and hassle for everyone on this highly visible climb. 5) Call your mom and tell her you love her. Here's what I've seen as of 12/16... Cape Horn Gullys: Yes Salmon Run: No Strand: No Pete's Pile: No Starvin' Marvin: No Ainsworth Left: No Lower Mist Falls: Yes(but why?) Kearney Route: No Pump House Blues: Yes Tatras: Yes Black Dagger: No Crown Jewel: Yes Tunnel Vision: Yes Quote
ivan Posted December 16, 2008 Posted December 16, 2008 5) Call your mom and tell her you love her. hey, isn't walking on the interstate and hiking the tracks still illegal? seems like the access is shitty no matter how you do it. Quote
pdk Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Hey John - I thought you were gonna post some condition reports and photos? We know you've been out there....but where are you now? Quote
ivan Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Packing for tomorrow just finished sharpening my shit - where you gonna be 2morrow john? damn, but the forecast is for the drive home 2morrow to be entertaining! Quote
JosephH Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 Should be a good run over the next week - you guys keep your wits about you up there this year... Quote
Spiral_Out Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 My co-worker Forest and I enjoyed some late afternoon, early evening climbing on Crown Jewel yesterday. Conditions were great! The ice is coming in nicely and of course, will only get better! Quote
Ken_p Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 I'm all in for tomorrow, just not too keen on climb locations. don't have a guide book, although I realise most of it is viewable from the road. Wa. ice guidebook have info? Quote
JRCO Posted December 17, 2008 Posted December 17, 2008 jrco got some today at mist falls. Lots of falling ice to climbers left. Looks like 4 or 5 lines are in. Picture taken of random climber on Tuesday. Things were thicker today. Quote
ivan Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 lots of traffic at crown jewel today - very warm toward evening - fantastically plastic ice, albeit coursing w/ water - oughta be real nice again when the cold snaps back in! Quote
jfs1978 Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 ok - not gonna beg fer hard earned local beta...but how worthwhile is it to come up from down south...and just drive down the gorge looking for lines? Dumb question? Waste of a day? Lost my copy of the only guidebook I had that had any gorge ice in it... Might make the drive regardless...getting desperate enough... Quote
Winter Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 It was falling apart yesterday afternoon with rain - it'll need to set back up. Quote
ivan Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 here's crown jewel at the height of rush hour y-day - how many climbers can you find? Quote
ivan Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 winter's boy jeff on lead beaconben after the herd had dispersed Quote
bozeb Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 Got some pics of some guys climbing on what I think is Mist falls just East of Crown Point on 12/16/08 in the afternoon from the RR Tracks. Anyone know who it was? I was going to give the 2 guys some pics and videos I took of them. Anyone been out today to see how the ice is with this warming going on? Quote
DonnieK Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 Anyone get out today (Thursday)? Apparently I'm a pessimist, but I suspect everything is toast after the rain and overnight-above-freezing temps. I'm tired of the NW ice tease. Quote
Lucky Larry Posted December 19, 2008 Author Posted December 19, 2008 I believe that would be Ben P and myself. Quote
ivan Posted December 19, 2008 Posted December 19, 2008 But...but...but Ben has kids? not when there's ice though... Quote
ivan Posted December 19, 2008 Posted December 19, 2008 anyone want partnership 2morrow? my school just got cancelled, so xmas break has officially started Quote
denalidave Posted December 19, 2008 Posted December 19, 2008 But...but...but Ben has kids? Just give em a grahm cracker, a blankie and a few old ice screws and crampons to play with and be sure to lock all the car doors. Kids are resilient, they'll be fine in the car for a day or three. Quote
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