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FYI this comes from an insert in Milo V. 9#3, December 2001 (Merle Meeter):

One-arm records: Robert Chisnall, 22 1-armed chins at bodyweight (BWT) 130#? (note: he isn't a climber, but this was the Guiness World Record!!)Burt Asirati 3 at BWT 240#

John Brookfield, 1 1-arm chin at BWT 250 (he also holds 2-arm record of 6 at BWT 250 +200 pounds!!)

Record for 2-arm chins: Lee Chin Yong, 370 at BWT 140#!! (another Guiness record!)

That's a lot of pulling!!! Wish I knew records for climbers -- anyone have something to add?

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The Guinness Book of World Records was actually created by the Guinness Brewery as a handy "settle the pub argument" type of resource guide, as well as a marketing tool.

In 1951, Sir Hugh Beaver, Guinness high falutin' muckymuck, was engaged in a discussion over what was the fastest game bird in Europe and reckoned a rescource guide with this type of info would prove valuable.

In 1955 the McWhirter twins published the first edition of the Guiness Book, and it soon found its' way into pubs throughout the British Empire.

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Robert Chisnall, contrary to what I think Courtenay's post above says (?or does she mean the 240 lb guy?), IS a climber - from Ontario - and a world renowned expert in Ligatures and knot tying. He has even invented new knots. He did the FA of a bunch of 5.12s in Ontario in the 80s too.

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I was also wondering what was the average number of chins or pullups most climbers could pull off. Especially those that can do a one arm. I can do about 20 or so pull ups and even more chin ups, but can barely support my body weight on one arm. What's up with all you doing one arms? Anyone have the balls to give out there stats? Just wondering.

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Alright then. How much can you squat. 700lbs? 1300? There's a buick outside my window, could you squat that?

But seriously, I've heard it said that only 1 in 100,000 people are capable of a one handed pullup, and that its some sort of a genetic thing, if you can't do it now you probably won't be able to ever.

I've always thought that was a bunch of horsehockey, but I'd thought I'd ask anyway.

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in thirty years of training and climbing, I've known maybe a half-dozen mutants who could perform a one-arm pullup. every one of them, including Alex Lowe and Tom Hargis, admitted that they had had that ability prior to ever beginning formal training. (anecdotal evidence to support the claim that its a genetic thing) I asked Hargis once how many pullups he could do and he just laughed and said he didn't know - said he got bored before he got tired! My favorite Hargis story is one he told me about his days in the Marines... his sergeant got on his case about something and demanded ten pullups. Hargis, ever the smart-ass, replied "sure, sarge, which arm?" "Left arm, asshole!" So Hargis cranks ten one-arm pullups on his left arm. then the Sarge barks, "OK asshole, now right arm!!" and Hargis dutifully cranks off ten on the right arm. At that point, the Sarge gave up and dismissed him!

the sports physiologists I've known tell me that the determiner for this move is the distance from the shoulder joint to the point of insertion of the lat tendon into the humerus. minor variations in this distance may account for leverage advantages which make one person far stronger than another, even though the stronger person may be less muscular.

for the record, I can pop 19 pullups in a single set without resting, and can pull about half my body weight with one arm on an assisted pullup machine.

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For the record I weighed around 135# when I was 18. Couldn’t do one arms but could do 35 or so regular pulls. In my 30s at 180# I could do much fewer pull-ups but it took a very short time of training for one arms before I could do one. I am one who agrees that there is a significant structural component to the ease with which one arms can be accomplished. Some people may never be able to do - some may find them easy but I bet a significant number can learn to do one. I would also bet that there is a positive correlation between the difficulty with which one has to train for one arms and the likelihood of injury while training. I have lost more partners due to injury than any other reason. Something to think about while training. Someone once told me the key to success in rock climbing was not to get hurt.

[ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

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I'm into it being a genetic thing, like I said before...it makes for a good excuse wink.gif" border="0 . It kind of makes sense though. I find the hardest thing about doing one arms (attempting them that is) is just the body position. Your body swings in, and tweeks all your shit out. Not to comfy.

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It is kind of fun to read this pull- up stuff.

As for this one arm pull-up stuff, it is kind of cool but it doen' t really impact climbing ability.According to the rags, one Amercian climber who has redpointed 9a has never been able to do one. And other climber who has redpointed 8c+ has never been able to do one either.

As for spray about who can do the most- I have coached wrestling at the school I teach at for a few years now. Some of the lightweight wrestlers can do pullups untill the cows come home. On the ice it even matters less,Except for perhaps radical serrac problems. the future of ice climbing is on the glaciers and in ice caves anyways.

PS. I took a 103 pound wrestler out once to a steep sport crag. He ran up an 11a for his warm-up climb , despite never having climbed before. The dude placed in state and could bench something in the mid 200 pound range. He was about 5 foot 1 inch tall.

A lot of wrestlers seem to go into the marines. Maybe some of them will end up with the crusty old drill Sarge that Tom Hargis had if the dude is still alive.

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Yeah, that's not fair, those little feather weight guys don't need much strength to pull their scrawny asses up over and over again.

When I was into bodybuilding I used to purposely do pull ups slowly, w/ a fairly wide grip, palms facing away, to make it harder. If I remember right a set of 10 or 15 was plenty to get the lats screaming.

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It's all in proportion though man. The little guy may not have to lift as much, but in respect to his body weight he is doing a hella of a lot more work than th ebig guy only pulling off a 3 or 3. The little guy after all has smaller arms and muscles.

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Jens' comments about the wrestler being a kick ass climber his first time out got me thinking. What other athletes do you think would excel at rock climbing if they had the opportunity? Gymnasts, martial artists, stuff like that where there is great body control, strength, balance, gracefullness, all that jive. Maybe some basketball players, long and lean and fairly strong and explosive. Any other thoughts?

[ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: nolanr ]

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