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Posted

It's one thing to expect some group like the Mounties to move an unoccupied top rope out of the way so's RuMR can siege Classic Crack, and an entirely different thing to expect that when a group of 4 or 5 is in the active process of all climbing some route, that they should stop in the middle and let some old farts queue-jump just because they have some hexes on their harness.

 

Heh - there is no bolted anchor on top of Penny Lane btw.

 

The whole thing is a red herring anyways because the Smoke Bluffs on a long weekend are a gong show outdoor gym and if you go there expecting to be able to lead anything you want on demand your head is packed full of horse shit and you are a certified retard.

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Posted

I did not call you stupid, rather your comment. Big difference.

 

And I was responding to NafeF as well, where he used the words majority and everyone interchangably, not the 'vocal minority.'

 

I don't know, I was frustrated that my age group was called out, when as you pointed out other groups hog routes as well. Then no communication was had, therefore causing judgements. I'll agree, some people will do whatever they want because they are no rules...

 

For the record, I hate it when groups claim crags or routes, however in my experience they have offered to move stuff out of the way.

 

I guess this is why I'm mostly alpine climbing and only at crags on weekdays or shitty weather.

Posted

 

I don't know, I was frustrated that my age group was called out, when as you pointed out other groups hog routes as well. Then no communication was had, therefore causing judgements. I'll agree, some people will do whatever they want because they are no rules...

 

For the record, I hate it when groups claim crags or routes, however in my experience they have offered to move stuff out of the way.

 

Well, this happened to me at the Tooth last May. Yes, it is a popular place - expect crowds. But we ran into a group of 10 from WAC - 2 leaders and 8 newbs. The "leaders" had topped out "pitch" one and were throwing the rope down to each of the 8 followers one by one. We chatted with the newbs to find out the situation, waited a little, and then ASKED if we could jump in between climbers and move past them. They were not thrilled about the request but acquiesced. We quickly climbed past them. I think they should have offered first, but I'm not about to sit and stew in silence if they don't. Later they hogged up the rap stations and would NOT let us go by. One of our guys gave them an earfull for that.

 

Posted
It's one thing to expect some group like the Mounties to move an unoccupied top rope out of the way so's RuMR can siege Classic Crack, and an entirely different thing to expect that when a group of 4 or 5 is in the active process of all climbing some route, that they should stop in the middle and let some old farts queue-jump just because they have some hexes on their harness.

 

Heh - there is no bolted anchor on top of Penny Lane btw.

 

The whole thing is a red herring anyways because the Smoke Bluffs on a long weekend are a gong show outdoor gym and if you go there expecting to be able to lead anything you want on demand your head is packed full of horse shit and you are a certified retard.

OMFG...this THE post of this thread...
Posted
going to squish on a holiday is flat fuckin' stupid unless you go find less traveled routes and areas...

 

we had a most excellent weekend! and basically just climbed the classic crag lines. but yeah we prolly don't rate too good on the iq scael. :brew:

Posted

 

I don't know, I was frustrated that my age group was called out, when as you pointed out other groups hog routes as well. Then no communication was had, therefore causing judgements. I'll agree, some people will do whatever they want because they are no rules...

 

For the record, I hate it when groups claim crags or routes, however in my experience they have offered to move stuff out of the way.

 

Well, this happened to me at the Tooth last May. Yes, it is a popular place - expect crowds. But we ran into a group of 10 from WAC - 2 leaders and 8 newbs. The "leaders" had topped out "pitch" one and were throwing the rope down to each of the 8 followers one by one. We chatted with the newbs to find out the situation, waited a little, and then ASKED if we could jump in between climbers and move past them. They were not thrilled about the request but acquiesced. We quickly climbed past them. I think they should have offered first, but I'm not about to sit and stew in silence if they don't. Later they hogged up the rap stations and would NOT let us go by. One of our guys gave them an earfull for that.

 

I would agree in regards to the rap station. Thats just dumb. And I think what you did was exactly right, talk to them and find out whats going on and ask. And my experience is different because it was in leavenworth and I was soloing easy stuff albeit no one was climbing the cracks I was in, just ropes were there. I have yet to run into a group like that in the alpine.

 

All in all, doing what you did is exactly what I was trying to get at, even if I had a round about way of doing it. Hats off to you sir - and the guy that gave them an earful. :P

 

But one good thing about the mounties, is they replace old webbing with brand new stuff. I went and climbed ingalls monday evening just after a mountie group had left and a bunch of the rap stations were brand new.

Posted
going to squish on a holiday is flat fuckin' stupid unless you go find less traveled routes and areas...

 

we had a most excellent weekend! and basically just climbed the classic crag lines. but yeah we prolly don't rate too good on the iq scael. :brew:

then why were you bitchin' about HMW???? :rolleyes: moron...

Posted

Whenever there are peanuts involved,

I'm in.

 

Basically, we have removed all doubt, once again, that we can not agree on the simplest of points.

 

All that remains is to affix the blame for our failure.

I say it is KKKK for not chiming in sooner.

And G-Spotter was probably right there perpetrating the fiasco.

 

Posted

 

I don't know, I was frustrated that my age group was called out, when as you pointed out other groups hog routes as well. Then no communication was had, therefore causing judgements. I'll agree, some people will do whatever they want because they are no rules...

 

For the record, I hate it when groups claim crags or routes, however in my experience they have offered to move stuff out of the way.

 

Well, this happened to me at the Tooth last May. Yes, it is a popular place - expect crowds. But we ran into a group of 10 from WAC - 2 leaders and 8 newbs. The "leaders" had topped out "pitch" one and were throwing the rope down to each of the 8 followers one by one. We chatted with the newbs to find out the situation, waited a little, and then ASKED if we could jump in between climbers and move past them. They were not thrilled about the request but acquiesced. We quickly climbed past them. I think they should have offered first, but I'm not about to sit and stew in silence if they don't. Later they hogged up the rap stations and would NOT let us go by. One of our guys gave them an earfull for that.

 

I would agree in regards to the rap station. Thats just dumb. And I think what you did was exactly right, talk to them and find out whats going on and ask. And my experience is different because it was in leavenworth and I was soloing easy stuff albeit no one was climbing the cracks I was in, just ropes were there. I have yet to run into a group like that in the alpine.

 

All in all, doing what you did is exactly what I was trying to get at, even if I had a round about way of doing it. Hats off to you sir - and the guy that gave them an earful. :P

 

But one good thing about the mounties, is they replace old webbing with brand new stuff. I went and climbed ingalls monday evening just after a mountie group had left and a bunch of the rap stations were brand new.

 

I hope they cut off and took some old "tat" too. :)

 

I left some webbing myself this year... but it was 3-4 years old. Not exactly new. :)

 

Posted
When there are too many rats in a cage, they kill and eat each other.

Have you considered that approach?

and, studies show, many of the males go gay! :noway:

Posted
When there are too many rats in a cage, they kill and eat each other.

Have you considered that approach?

 

When there are multiple chickens in one cage, and you take the one chicken that lays the most eggs and choose those eggs to start thye next generation with, in 6 generations you get a hyperaggressive chicken that attacks any other chickens in the cage, and egg production plummets.

 

But when you choose the eggs of ALL the chickens in the cage of the chicken that lays the most eggs, in 6 generations you get peaceful, docile chickens and 160% greater egg production.

 

So anyways. Chicken tastes good. Egg tastes good. And don't bring a pigeon to a cock fight.

Posted
When there are too many rats in a cage, they kill and eat each other.

Have you considered that approach?

and, studies show, many of the males go gay! :noway:

 

Start your own thread big guy.

Posted
When there are too many rats in a cage, they kill and eat each other.

Have you considered that approach?

and, studies show, many of the males go gay! :noway:

 

Start your own thread big guy.

just thought it was an interesting coincidence since gangs of top-ropers are often sport-climbers, who are all clearly gay :)

Posted
When there are too many rats in a cage, they kill and eat each other.

Have you considered that approach?

and, studies show, many of the males go gay! :noway:

 

Start your own thread big guy.

just thought it was an interesting coincidence since gangs of top-ropers are often sport-climbers, who are all clearly gay :)

 

funny, I thought you were rationalizing your behavior at "forced bivies" sickie

Posted
It’s amazing to me that this “discussion” (“rant” would be a better word) is still going on. This thread was started by a venomous old fart as a way of spewing invective on younger climbers (“gym mentality”, “cell phone generation”) disguised as a “discussion” regarding acceptable behavior at the crag. He even confesses in a later post that he didn’t try negotiating (“I am guilty of sometimes getting irritated, instead of being friendly and making hints about how excited I am to lead it. I know better too, because I've used that tactic”), but quickly backpedals away from taking any responsibility for his own feelings and behavior by pointing out that the other group was remiss because they didn’t read his mind (“leaders used to get more respect” – did you tell them you wanted to lead the route?). Jesus, what a load this is. I say it’s high time grampa Mark here grew up and learned that you get respect from others by showing it first -- which means that if you want something from other people, then you need to open your mouth and ask for it. Don’t walk away sulking and then complain on the internet about the poor manners of those who aren’t able to anticipate all of your needs, because the simple truth is that most people aren’t walking around the crag thinking about what Markwebster might want. You can only call this behavior “excessive top roping” if the group in question had refused to share the route with you. A better name for this thread would have been "Sulky old schooler having a snit".

 

DO YOU ALSO POST AS MOSES! ?

Posted

 

Please provide a 1-to-1 mapping of Smoke Bluffs to Squaw.

 

park 1km north on Loggers Lane to equalize approach time.

 

 

Solving the problem by reducing it to a previous problem which had already been screwed up.

 

 

Posted

Keep climbing for 31 years and you too can be an old fart. Oh, I forgot to mention, it was our 29th wedding anniversary...maybe if I had a sticker to that effect on my helmet I could have got more routes? I can't believe I've been climbing with the same woman that long...

 

loved the comment about sport climbers all being gay. I ran into another crusty old bastard in smith. He was leading 10c trad and making it look like 5.2. We said we were going to climb some sport routes next, and he said sport climbing was neither.

 

 

 

Yosemite is going to be awesome!

 

My crusty old wife:

 

sue_tieton_07a.jpg

Posted

i'm 52 years old and have been climbing for 24 years, so 7 years from now i guess i'll inevitably become an old fart? i hope not.

 

good luck in yosemite. i'm sure the younger generation down there will have the good manners to put down their cell phones and step aside when they see the hexes on your harness.

Posted
no, bill, that's your role in this forum.

 

i'm just tired of old farts who go to the crags looking for reasons to be pissed off.

Uh huh.

 

Thanks for setting us straight there whipper-snapper.

 

 

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