Supercrack Leavenworth

[Raindawg]

Soooo I went back last week with two friends and drilled a two bolt anchor at the top We rapped in and I looked at it on TR for a second and then sent the pitch first go. With the anchor there now hopefully it will get more traffic.

 

You got up a hard climb...good job, but too bad you dumbed-down the experience by drilling an anchor. Timson and everyone else who climbed that route in the last nearly 30 years apparently didn't require such an installation. The climb would have remained essentially how it was for those before and those after (essentially natural) until you decided to make it more "comfortable".

And who cares how much traffic it gets? Really!

Is there some sort of attempt quota needed to satisfy some sort of requirement? No.

[el jefe]

thanks for the bolt anchor, by the way. i for one always appreciate it when people put in the time to do a good job.

[Sol]

nice send and thanks for the new anchor.

[Hoodrat]

Great send!!!

 

Thanks for the new anchor!

[Dane]

Maybe I am misunderstanding this.

 

You tried an onsight last year and failed to free the crack.

 

Came back this year, placed a TR anchor, TR'ed the crack and then lead it clean?

[MStyles]

nice send Jesse! Is that Shane in the bottom pic?

[TRbetaFlash]

Yeah, but the softer, gentler Indian Creek version gets its name hacked short by just about everybody.

 

There's something to be said about a .12 in leavenworth that requires two number fours. That's quite a feat.

 

I'm assuming what he meant by "more traffic" was that everyone else would show up and scrape the dumb lichen off of it. Then again, it wouldn't be 'natural'.

 

I suppose the next step would be to give it a nifty sign at the base?

 

hey...everybody's doing it.

[RuMR]

fuckin' lot of armchair qb's out there...

 

Dane, good to see your healing up enough to talk shit...

 

Props, jesse...

[Dane]

Hey RuMR I was thinking of giving an opinion but wanted to get the facts straight.

 

Bunch of folks have been on Supercrack in the past 29 years. Easy enough to get to from the South Ramp.

 

And a fine line and nice lead it is. Congrads to Jesse as well.

 

My only resevation is the added bolts. (although I enjoyed the TR laps on ROTC without complaint)

[RuMR]

That is true, but the bolts are camo'd and wouldn't be conspicuous at all...

 

most likely, someone climbing on the route would appreciate the bolts...

 

to me, its only when a big stink, ala dwayner, is raised that something like this even becomes an "issue"...

[bigbowsky]

 

 

If supercrack gets climbed more often now because of a two bolt anchor then those bolts are doing a service to the crag and anyone who takes the time to go up there.

 

If you disagree with the anchor, approach via the south ramp, go ground up, send the pitch, use the bomber hb offset and grey tcu anchor, belay your second up and chop the bolts. If that dosen't make you feel better, then climb r.o.t.c and plumb line and chop the anchors on those too.

[RuMR]

Bigbowsky

 

all i gotta say is ...

 

 

[lancegranite]

Hell yeah.

[Raindawg]

 

If supercrack gets climbed more often now because of a two bolt anchor then those bolts are doing a service to the crag and anyone who takes the time to go up there.

 

How is it a "service to the crag" when you added permanent metal to an otherwise clean climb with a long history?

 

If you disagree with the anchor, approach via the south ramp, go ground up, send the pitch, use the bomber hb offset and grey tcu anchor, belay your second up and chop the bolts. If that dosen't make you feel better, then climb r.o.t.c and plumb line and chop the anchors on those too.

 

Whatever, dude. It ain't about "feeling better". Chopping alone isn't good enough...that can leave scars. It requires "restoration". As I said before:

 

"too bad you dumbed-down the experience by drilling an anchor. Timson and everyone else who climbed that route in the last nearly 30 years apparently didn't require such an installation. The climb would have remained essentially how it was for those before and those after (essentially natural) until you decided to make it more "comfortable"."

 

Chop it yourself and fill the holes.

 

[pope]

 

If supercrack gets climbed more often now because of a two bolt anchor then those bolts are doing a service to the crag and anyone who takes the time to go up there.

 

Not to discredit your accomplishment, but I'm not sure the logic holds up. No matter where you place bolts, traffic will increase. It does not follow that additional bolts are always a service to the crags.

 

 

If you disagree with the anchor, approach via the south ramp, go ground up, send the pitch, use the bomber hb offset and grey tcu anchor, belay your second up and chop the bolts. If that dosen't make you feel better, then climb r.o.t.c and plumb line and chop the anchors on those too.

 

Are you telling me ROTC has an anchor now? That's weak sauce. I don't remember any difficulties finding a good anchor up there.

[Sol]

yawn

[TRbetaFlash]

Can't we all just sling trees and get along? sheesh

[el jefe]

again, i congratulate bigbowsky on the proud send and say thanks for the anchor. just ignore raindawg and pope.

[bigwallben]

Never been on that one. Perhaps Mikey might comment... But, I definitely salute Jesse for getting er' done! Nice work amigo.

bibwallben,

 

curious to hear your thoughts on the size differential...

[matt_m]

Nice send and thanks for the service - Midnight needs the traffic and fresh hardware to stay "un-mossy" in the long run. The rust and slime I saw last time was dis-heartening for the hike I'd just done. Looks like it's getting the love it deserves now.

 

I laugh at this topic - I moved away for 15 months, return and the same 2 have the same tired complaints they always do.

 

That said it's evident at index and elsewhere there's some fresh blood breathing a lot of new life (and upkeep and cleaning) into the local crags (index, lworth etc) and for that I say THANKS

 

 

[Jens]

Awesome send!

-------------

The moss on the whole crag seemed to be less bad before the seasonal falcon closures were instituted.

 

I TR'd supercrack and also belayed a buddy about 5 years ago (and about 25 pounds ago). I remember the gehtto anchor. Nice work with the bolts. Thanks. As for ethics,even Bachar would have drilled that anchor.

 

I have medium to smallish hands and had to layback the top section and found it completely desperate. The way it lays and the size it is, it can't really be climbed feetfirst using leaviation at the top.

[Raindawg]

I laugh at this topic - I moved away for 15 months, return and the same 2 have the same tired complaints they always do.

 

Laugh all you like. Do you really think that some of us will sell-out our strong values after only 15 months??? Go away for another 15 months and you'll still find us here when you come back.

[bigbowsky]

In an earlier post I said that the route would hopefully get "more traffic." "More traffic" wasn't meant as a way to keep the route clean - it is pretty clean already. Supercrack is one of the steepest pure crack climbs in Washington (That I have found) and shouldn't be missed if you walk up to midnight rock. Hopefully more people will consider climbing it now if they take the time and energy to get up there in the first place.

[el jefe]

I laugh at this topic - I moved away for 15 months, return and the same 2 have the same tired complaints they always do.

 

Laugh all you like. Do you really think that some of us will sell-out our strong values after only 15 months??? Go away for another 15 months and you'll still find us here when you come back.

 

idée fixe |ēdā ˈfēks|

noun ( pl. idées fixes pronunc. same)

an idea or desire that dominates the mind; an obsession.

ORIGIN mid 19th cent.: French, literally ‘fixed idea.’

 

[Peter_Puget]

ocd