Favorite climbing area...

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Kevbone's fav climb is into Pink's bed.

 

pink's bed is AIDS

[pink]

much like drinking, i prefer to climb alone or with select company. where is far less important

 

 

 

minx, your perfect climbing partner.

[pink]

Kevbone's fav climb is into Pink's bed.

 

pink's bed is AIDS

 

 

you're funnier than that also,

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

not with the ttk pics again!

[pink]

no, it was funny

 

 

you're funny

[billcoe]

A little “variety” eh? Nice shot of “house of pain” in there on the right.

 

Yeah I listed Ozone instead of Yos…..its 11 hours closer with no approach.

 

Yup, nice call: Variety 5.10.

 

Gear. Wired stoppers and mostly small cams to 2" although there is a short offwidth section where an optional #5 cam might be desired. Start to the Left of the crack by the dihedral and use your full arsenal of face, stemming, offwidth and hand crack technique to ascent to the top. FA 6-14-07 Leisure time Rappel.

 

Looks like someone ran it out on the FA up there. Probably a high trust in loose blocks and Aliens:-)

 

PS, I did broom and shovel off House of Pain later. Doing the same to 2trad4U now with that glorious crack to the right...it's a frikkan dirt ball disaster till I get back up there at least 3 more times.

[fenderfour]

I've got a real boner for Squamish these days.

 

 

[Blake]

Squamish during may, july, aug, and sept is pretty unbeatable.

Steep, slabby, sport, trad, long routes, aid climbs, splitter cracks that never end... it's got it all! Plus generally very easy descents, low commitment, no need for tons of gear, beautiful scenery, well-protected and solid rock, and interesting routes.

 

However, for the size of the crag and approaches, I think both main walls at index are stellar in the 5.10-5.12 range.

[AlpineK]

Canadian Rockies. Yeah I know the rock is scary, but climbing some of the routes there is fucking rad.

 

At the summit I've said, "thank god I never have to come back," a number of times, but I'm still happy with all the stuff I've done there.

[Mal_Con]

Himalayas, simply the biggest and best.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Himalayas, simply the biggest and best.

 

are there any bolts?

[Mal_Con]

Not a whole lot as the batteries are dead by the time you get to the rock

[AlpineK]

the Himalayas are cool for sure, but they are harder to get to for most North Americans.

[wfinley]

I too miss the beautiful sandstone at the New and have enjoyed going on vacation to scare myself silly in the Canadian Rockies. But if I had to pick a favorite climbing area I'd have to say my backyard.

 

The rock sucks, for 6 months out of the year you can count on nasty windslab and there are hurricane-strength winds at least every 2 weeks... but the trailhead is 5 minutes from my front door, I go there every night after work and I'll never grow tired of it.

[sobo]

Lightning Dome, SF of the Clearwater River. 'Nuff said.

 

The Rock:

It's clean granite (granodiorite, actually), bolts on the steep and slabby, and abundant gear placements for the flakes and cracks. Most routes are a combo of both. It's got many multi-pitch all day outings and several one-pitch wonders. Descents are easy, and there's virtually no approach (some routes go right from the white line on the side of the road, 15 minutes is the max uphill climb). The routes are all quite varied and interesting, requiring one to use many different techniques on any given route. Smearing, edging, foot camming, off widths, hand and finger jamming, dime-edge fingernail holds, pinches, underclings, au chevals, you name it. Vantage, this ain't! There's years (dare I say a lifetime) worth of FA potential for the hardier souls - acres of undeveloped rock abounds.

 

The Setting:

The scenery is amazingly stunning, there's a cool river for apres climb skinny dipping, and the place has goats scampering all about, eagles screaming overhead as they soar on the thermals, and wolves howl at night. The whole place smells of Poderosa Pine.

 

The Amenities:

The camping is plentiful and free, no fucking NW Forest Pass or WSDFW parking stickers required, a precast shitter a quarter mile from the crag and at every campground and they're all well-stocked with TP (a fact E-rock could appreciate), cell phones don't work, beer and ice is available without leaving the canyon, and best of all IT AIN'T THE LEAST BIT CROWDED!!!1

 

[G-spotter]

My fav climbing area is the Coast Mountains of BC.

Trivia: The Coast Plutonic Complex is the largest exposed body of plutonic rock in the whole world.

Some of it is even solid!