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Posted

LaSportiva Mega SG's....these were awesome after break-in

 

LaSportiva Futura's...Damn near killed Dave Page after that mf'er ground off the sole plate and sole instead of just peeling off the mini plate...Ba$tard...they quit making them soon thereafter...

 

Old Style Lasers...not this new shit...

 

current faves...Anazasis..

 

crack machines kauks...

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Posted

Scarpa La Menestral, mine are 20 years old on August 29th (who keeps that kind of track on shoe anniversary's eh?) and on their 4th sole, and I just love them to pieces. Stiff edgers that still smear very well.

 

My wish list for shoes is a good modern high top that will keep the gobies off my ankles while engaged in a little real climbing, as well as comfortable enough to wear all day on a grade IV without sniveling and taking them off on ledges.

Posted
Scarpa La Menestral, mine are 20 years old on August 29th (who keeps that kind of track on shoe anniversary's eh?) and on their 4th sole, and I just love them to pieces. Stiff edgers that still smear very well.

 

My wish list for shoes is a good modern high top that will keep the gobies off my ankles while engaged in a little real climbing, as well as comfortable enough to wear all day on a grade IV without sniveling and taking them off on ledges.

I forgot that one!!!! Man, that set the bar as far as comfort and workmanship...even had that lining of glove leather in the heel area...sweet beautiful shoes...

Posted

I look forward to more posts here because I need to update my shoes.

 

I have a pair of Fires that I got for free in 1990 and have resoled several times since. They are crap for edging but heaven in cracks and all day.

 

I have an old pair of aces I like for harder (for me) routes. Trouble is I have to take them off at the end of each pitch or else they hurt by the end of the day. Also been resoled several times.

 

I have long narrow feet, with left foot slightly larger, and if I get shoes that press on my left big toe it really hurts (read leads to foot problems that make walking a problem). I wanted to get Evolv but every shoe I tried on hurt like this.

 

Suggestions appreciated.

Rad

Posted

vectors and old school lasers, used to climb in a scarpa edge prior to that. i climb in a pair of boreal orange colored shoes, can't keep track of names anymoreg34.gif

Posted

anasazi velcros for past vertical bouldering and sport climbing.

 

the new Solutions for real steeps with heel and toe-hooks. nothing like them that i've ever used for super steep climbing. really sucky for precision edging or toeing, i've found.

 

the old anasazi pinks for verticalish face. super good fit for me, and really precise and techy feeling.

 

yellow katanas i liked, until i lost them at index.

 

 

all of this is predicated by a proper fit (i have a rather dainty and narrow foot).

 

i know folk who liked particular models of mad rock and evolv. shit, i think every major company makes a decent shoe, as long as they fit well and are used for the type of climbing that suits the model.

 

Posted

Anasazi velcro, Boreal Zen's for most anything.

 

Just got a pair of the new Anasazi lace-ups - they are edging and smearing machines! They seemed to have fixed the heel-box problem this time around. :rawk:

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