kevbone Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Seems no one is addressing this, maybe because they are embarrassed about there local crag .I climbed a couple of climbs at Index this last weekend. First….the climbing is outstanding. But I did notice protectable cracks that have bolts for pro instead of using cams/nuts. What is up with this? Is this an acceptable kind of route setting for Index? I was under the illusion that Index was this great world class climbing crag with years of tradition. Cunning Runt was a super great climb with half of it bolted right next to super good cracks. Since I have only climbed a handful of climbs there…..my question is……is this consistent with a lot of the other climbs there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 first ascentionist changed his mind. you can always forgo bolts and place gear- that's your choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 first ascentionist changed his mind. Thats cool.... you can always forgo bolts and place gear- Kind of sets a bad standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akhalteke Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 "Kind of sets a bad standard." Its a crag man. If you wanna be a hard ass there is some really butt puckering shit about a mile away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 "Kind of sets a bad standard." Its a crag man. If you wanna be a hard ass there is some really butt puckering shit about a mile away. What ever dude...I could care less and I am gonna clip em....just wanted to know if Index is or is going to be known for bolted cracks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 oh fuck kevbone quit fucking trolling. who cares. i can't think of anything that i could climb that's bolted crack. but whatever. there are a few that sure the fuck doesn't mean i'm showing up w/a set of draws, a gri gri and a fancy "personal anchor" sold at REI for 29.95. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 oh wait, i don't climb and when i did i sucked really really badly so nevermind. i have nothing to say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 I doubt it. Index is known for pig heads and bolt/grease wars. It also has one of the burliest belays evar on GNS. Last tiem I was up there, I found a trail of MGD cans leading to Private Idaho, keeping up another important Index tradition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 i like it when the trail to private idaho is clearly marked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Firstly, I think Index is far from a bastion of old-school trad climbing purity. However, it is unbelievably good spot for climbing, and most of the routes seem bolted (or unbolted) appropriately. However, there are several bolted cracks at index. Angorro Grotto, for example. Blocks and flakes like those on Cunning Stunt have a tendency to be a bit dangerous with cams behind them on that wall. (Or so I've been told by folks who know more about this stuff than I do.) Routes at "The country" like Frank Presley, Kite Flying blind, Climax Control, and Tunnel Vision all seem as though they could be lead safely with fewer bolts and gear in places. Perhaps their bolting was the result of wanting to just climb with a rack of QDs and not have to taken along 3 -5 pieces of gear for an (otherwise) sport climb. Next time check out 'zoom'... another .10d near cunning stunt with bolts where you need them, and no bolts where gear can be had. I'd personally like it if some of the other routes at "The Country" were like this. However, I should probably become more familiar with the ability of flakes and cracks on those nearby routes to safely hold gear before getting too worked up. The main section of the LTW has more unbolted crack climbs, and less sport climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 Thanks for your unspray response. Minx....screw off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canyondweller Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 oh wait, i don't climb and when i did i sucked really really badly so nevermind. i have nothing to say Climbing is so 2006...I astrally project myself to the summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 i just pay someone to summit for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Thanks for your unspray response. Minx....screw off. i wuv you too kevin. i'll luv you even more if you never start another bolt v. trad thread of any sort. there are plenty of these. including plenty about index. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 i just pay someone to summit for me. You aren't part of this new trend of hiring them illegal aliens to do your climbing and tag the summits for you are you? Cause I might want to get in on that. Climbing is hard work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 no, no, i've only hired eurotrash with proper visas. more expensive but worth it. the interest on visas can kill ya though. climbing was just too hard for me. when i realized i could pay someone to do it for me, it really opened up the possibilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 can we get back to discussing bolts vs. trad? We're so close to reaching closure, I think we could settle it once and for all with only a few more pages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 i do so need closure. carry on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builder206 Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 I am off work today. I need to actually go to Index and see the controversy firsthand. Is anyone else motivated enough to actually go there right now and study this problem up close? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 .... But I did notice protectable cracks that have bolts for pro instead of using cams/nuts. What is up with this? Cunning Runt was a super great climb with half of it bolted right next to super good cracks. There's plenty more! Take a look, for example, at "Numbah 10" on the Lower Town Wall... Today's Lesson: Definition: 1) one who bolts cracks; 2) one who rap-bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canyondweller Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 Thanks for your unspray response. Minx....screw off. i wuv you too kevin. i'll luv you even more if you never start another bolt v. trad thread of any sort. there are plenty of these. including plenty about index. Imagine...if you DON'T start enough of those threads, she might garner enough affection for you to allow you to buy her a beer...supervised of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 ... Today's Lesson: Definition: 1) one who doesn't climb very much any more but constantly puts down other climbers while posting anonymously Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 one who rap-bolts. has more common sense and thinks about others first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 (edited) So Kev, you're a rap bolter? ........not that there's anything wrong with it..... I'm probably a rap-bolter wannabe. Edited July 7, 2008 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 So Kev, you're a rap bolter? ........not that there's anything wrong with it..... Yes....I rap bolt. So do you......I am proud of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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