gt5816v Posted May 7, 2008 Posted May 7, 2008 (edited) Trip: Smith Rocks Monkey Face - West Face Aid Route Date: 4/27/2008 Trip Report: So Dan F and I tried it again. The West Face rematch! This time we got the last pitch in with lots of time to spare. I had the first pitch: Dan jugging up: Dan leading p2 and p3. I got p4 and Dan had p5 Dan rapping off: Gear Notes: Small rack, offset nuts ~20 draws and 2 ropes. ****Stick clip**** Edited May 8, 2008 by gt5816v Quote
counterfeitfake Posted May 7, 2008 Posted May 7, 2008 Nice! And hey, it's really good to see you using the proper nalgene bottle suspension method. Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted May 7, 2008 Posted May 7, 2008 Good work fellas, that one's been on my list for a little while now, and seeing the pictures is a good reminder that I need to get out there and give it a try! Thanks for posting. Quote
gt5816v Posted May 8, 2008 Author Posted May 8, 2008 Thanks. It's a great route with tons of exposure. Just watch the loose rocks in the cave. Quote
fgw Posted May 8, 2008 Posted May 8, 2008 Great work - it's a fun route! By the way, is that a haulbag in your 5th photo down? Quote
gt5816v Posted May 8, 2008 Author Posted May 8, 2008 Aye, it's a little guy (BD Stubby). Being so overhung it's a really easy line to haul. Gives the leader something to do while the second cleans too Great work - it's a fun route! By the way, is that a haulbag in your 5th photo down? Quote
ivan Posted May 9, 2008 Posted May 9, 2008 bivy in the cave next time! great idea there, dan - wanna enact it w/ me? been trying to talk some fool into bivying on the monkey for awhile... Quote
dan_forester Posted May 9, 2008 Posted May 9, 2008 well, it's definitely on my list of things to do in this life. I do snore pretty loud sometimes though, or so my partners allege, so you've been warned. bivying on the mighty beacon is up there too. basically I think I'm just into the idea of camping + exposure. Quote
gt5816v Posted May 9, 2008 Author Posted May 9, 2008 Sounds like you need to sleep on a portaledge, perhaps in Zion on Moonlight.... basically I think I'm just into the idea of camping + exposure. Quote
fgw Posted May 9, 2008 Posted May 9, 2008 real old & I'm sure most have seen it but if not: west cave bivy Quote
billcoe Posted May 9, 2008 Posted May 9, 2008 Stop the presses! Is that a "Stick Clip" hanging down under yer sac dere Dan? OMG! Nice TR!~ Now, next on the agenda - when are you folks gonna do the multi-route linkup? Ie, do N face then West face, or east face/North face kind of thing same day? Quote
billcoe Posted May 9, 2008 Posted May 9, 2008 FWG, nice link. I just talked to Dave yesterday. Been a while since I've seen Bob and John though. from Daves site: Quote
dan_forester Posted May 9, 2008 Posted May 9, 2008 you're darn right that's a stick clip, Bill. homemade with a dowel rod and some duct tape. if you want to borrow it sometime, let me know. there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy. it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level. Quote
111 Posted May 10, 2008 Posted May 10, 2008 bivy in the cave next time! some buddies of mine spent saturday night last weekend in the cave. Got some hilarious drunken phone calls from them during the clean up auction. apparently the wind picked up a bit more than they were expecting. Quote
wayne Posted May 10, 2008 Posted May 10, 2008 The bivy in the cave has some issues. It is not a good place to bail from unless you fix to the summit. It has mice and the dung of mice. It is a natural spark plug in lightning storms. Quote
billcoe Posted May 12, 2008 Posted May 12, 2008 you're darn right that's a stick clip, Bill. homemade with a dowel rod and some duct tape. if you want to borrow it sometime, let me know. there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy. I think when the 2/3rd pitch got rebolted, there is now a section of mandatory free climbing which I don't remember being there before. I showed up in shit shoes and learned this the hard way the first time. Having rock shoes or a stick clip alleviates this problem. it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level. Well, about time you got on the aid climbers bus! BTW, my stick clip is prettier than your stick clip! Quote
shapp Posted May 12, 2008 Posted May 12, 2008 (edited) Climbed it in January 1997 (cold) with Clay and Nate from OSU (now have lost track of these guys) and bivied over-night in the cave, post belay anchor replacement by Chris Purnel (spelling?, RIP) pre-all other old gear replacement. The rivets and button heads were kind of scary, you could take some out by hand for inspection then easily replace! I found a headlamp in the Cave (new petzel at that time) please describe the sticker on the battery pack and I can get it back to you as it is old and out of date, but still works good. Shapp Edited May 12, 2008 by shapp Quote
rbw1966 Posted May 13, 2008 Posted May 13, 2008 there's at least one spot where it really came in handy, and a couple more where I just used it 'cause I'm lazy. it takes a lot of gimmickry to bring the rock down to my level. If this is the spot I am thinking of you can get past it with a hook. I've climbed this route twice and used a hook both times--no free climbing Quote
111 Posted May 13, 2008 Posted May 13, 2008 Shapp, Nate is still around. I've seen him every now and again(or at least heard of sightings). He is on here occasionally too. Quote
gt5816v Posted May 14, 2008 Author Posted May 14, 2008 The reachy bolt is right off of the 3rd anchor on the small ledge. It's just out of reach top stepping the left anchor bolt. There are several good reaches but that's the only one that requires a stick clip/hook move... You can read about my first attempt on this route here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=738892 Quote
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