Dane Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I'm looking for the best dbl rope out there. Gotta be lwt weight, stiff flex if it is available. Need a 70m and bi color would be nice but not a deal breaker. For others that might do such a thing I am looking for a 8mm/8.5mm, rope that is dbl rated. The intended use is as a single rope on a ice route with a bit of hard mixed. Not UIAA approved of course but that is where it is going so if you have any experience with dbls or one particular brand/model you like let's hear it. Got a Joker already and want something lighter as the approach for this one is a beeeeeeaaach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Sorry, forgot...needs to be a dry rope. If anyone has a lighter rope than a Joker...that is single rated, that would be even better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 i think the only single lighter than the joker is the mammut 8.9, which saves a wopping 1 g/m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendershot Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Trogdor's right, that about ends the discussion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Correct me if I a wrong here Dane but you want a rope that is certified as a double but not necessarily as a single... right? I have climbed on a few different brands but have had the best luck with Beal ropes... I'm on my second set of 8.1 mm (whatever they are called)... they are certified to be used as both twin and double/half... I've uses just one on very easy terrain but depending on how much mixed you are planning on might want something a little beefier... I believe Beal makes a 8.5 or so... not sure. Mine arent bicolor so I had to mark them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Metolius Monster 7.8mm are the lightest doubles (and Twin) ropes out there. Love the lil marking tufts too. That said, maybe you don't want the lightest one for this purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Looks like Mammut has a 8.3 and a 8.5 double... 8.3mm (46g/m) only available in 50 or 60 m lengths 8.5mm (48g/m) comes in 50m, 60m and 100m Beal makes an 8.6mm (48g/m) only comes in 60m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Thanks guys. Yes, what I was looking for is a UIAA dbl rated rope but something you'd be willing to use as a single. I have 7.8 twins and not willing to use one of them as a single, too skinny and scary. But in comparison to my Joker they are really light. Thought something in the mid 8mm range would work for what I have in mind and still keep the weight down and some piece of mind. Some good suggestions to check out...thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 i have been very happy with the edelweiss...a little spendy but the thing has been indestructible...also, have had good luck with mammuts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I have a mammut 8.5mm and some bluewater 8.6s. I would say the mammut has the stiffer feel of the two. Beal lists an 8.8 pro mountain that is available bi-color at 47 g/m. Not sure if it is available stateside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxtrax Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I have the mammut 8mm phoenixes and am VERY happy with them, especially durability-wise. I've also heard really good reviews of the mammut 8.5mm genesis half ropes from friends who have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkporwit Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 I'll second that recommendation for the phoenix. Just be sure to have a belay device that works well with 8mm ropes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Thanks guys. Yes, what I was looking for is a UIAA dbl rated rope but something you'd be willing to use as a single. I have 7.8 twins and not willing to use one of them as a single, too skinny and scary. But in comparison to my Joker they are really light. Thought something in the mid 8mm range would work for what I have in mind and still keep the weight down and some piece of mind. Some good suggestions to check out...thanks! Just have some strong young stud like Ujahn, John or Bryan (Powderhound) invited in and they'll carry your rope and even you if needed. I'm wondering how much weight you'll save? Perhaps you can gear with like Camp Nano biners and shave all that weight you are thinking of saving off anyway, and still climb on the Joker so you have a single rope? Anyway, FYI, the 7.8mm that Metolius makes are double rated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 i have been very happy with the edelweiss...a little spendy but the thing has been indestructible...also, have had good luck with mammuts... Which Edelweiss? I liked the Stratos a lot; I'm not so thrilled with the Sharpe. The new generation (Sharpe) is lighter, but also much softer so more prone to tangles, and not as durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 dynamic 8,3's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 those phoenix ropes have to be the smallest diameter single fall rated rope available ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Johns Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 I have no dog in this fight, and agree you SHOULD go with the Joker, but I'm buying a 70m Beal Cobra II for many of the same purposes you laid out in your query. The tipping point for me was the abrasion resistance advantage of the Cobra over other doubles (passes the sharp edge test), so that if push came to shove and I absolutely HAD to I could (with fluttering heart) press it into service as a single. Mountain Gear has it on sale for $167 and change, Golden Dry, which is their uber process and does more than keep the core dry. Add in the soft catch properties and this old dog figures he's got it sniffed out. I'm buying it on Tuesday for use up here in Alaska, hope this doesn't come too late to help confuse the issue further. -MJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 I own a set of Beal Ice Line 8.1mm ropes, 70m...probably one of my most appreciated ropes that I own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Johns Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Upon further reflection, I second Chad's choice of the Beal Ice Line. I didn't read the original post carefully enough, and superimposed my own criteria a little bit. I elevated the abrasion resistance factor up to where it is in my own mind. Beyond that, the Cobra only saves about two Cadbury Bars' worth of weight, not enough to justify the added risk/expense; the Ice Line saves twice as much weight. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_p Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 mammut genesis 8.5s are top notch. I've used them on ice, rock, and alpine. they handle quite well and don't suffer from the beal super twist syndrome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crackers Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 I've got a couple thoughts here. I've led pretty hard alpine rock on a single beal ice line, and i was more scared thinking about the rope than i was by the climbing. It's 8.1 and feels skinnier. It would save you almost two pounds, which is substantial. It might have been a lot less ball clenchy on ice, but on sharp limestone i'd much rather carry in the heavier rope. In my mind, to have a worthwhile weight savings, I would need to save a pound aka 495 grams. If you've got a 53 g/m joker, and it's a 70 meter rope, then the rope has to be under 46 g/m. There ain't much there. The Sterling nano feels like a real rope, but it's 1 g/m lighter. nope. Same deal with the Serenity. The only ropes that make the 46 g/m cut off, well, except for the new sterling 100 meter ropes (biathlon and bipolar) i think we've mentioned them all... So you know that already. Here's the rub in my book: you're going to be leading, you should go into the local shop and touch them. Then I'd get the shop to call, or call yourself, and get in touch with the distributor of the rope you want. I know for a fact that sterling, mammut, and bluewater at the very least have been known to have 70 or 80 meter ropes available by special order. Good luck! You could also throw two pounds into an exercise belt and carry it around with you all the time until your approach... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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