Best Multi-Purpose Rope?

[Jeff W]

I plan to buy a rope and hope to find one that will serve several functions. Probably half the time I will use it for glacier travel with two or three persons. The remainder of time will be for top roping, and also carrying when I expect there may be need to rap on scrambling trips. It seems like a 50m x 10.2mm dry rope would be a good choice except maybe a little heavy. Any suggestions on one rope that will do it all?

[Clarence]

I'd get a 60m probably. I have the bluewater eliminator 10.2 which has taken a lot of abuse. Recently I've been climbing on my firend's Maxim 10.2 (green and yellow bi weave) which is also a solid choice.

[underworld]

glacier travel

top roping

carrying (just in case)

 

...this all spells out a lighter rope than 10.2. it'll be a rope that isn't taking lead falls and isn't being abused (by the sounds of it)

 

get a 9mil half rope (50 meter)

[aussie69]

Get seperate rops.

Trying to multi purpose doesnt work!

Heres the skinny: When you TR the rope is constantly weighted which heavily shortens the life span. now say you've TR'd on the rope your getting quite a bit, and then take a fall one day while crossing a crevasse. Being so heavily weakened by the constant TRing you could snap a line. Specialy if you go with a thinner line then a 10mm.

Your best bet would be get a cheap static line to TR with (since you wont be lead climbing.) and get two small 30meters for glaiceral travel.

Any scenerio you go with what ever you do be sure to stay away from multi purpose ropes! its dangerous!!!!

[SemoreJugs]

snap a line while falling into a crevasse? Unlikely. highly unlikely. And static ropes arent really meant for TR'ing.

[ken4ord]

I plan to buy a rope and hope to find one that will serve several functions. Probably half the time I will use it for glacier travel with two or three persons. The remainder of time will be for top roping, and also carrying when I expect there may be need to rap on scrambling trips. It seems like a 50m x 10.2mm dry rope would be a good choice except maybe a little heavy. Any suggestions on one rope that will do it all?

 

The short answer is there is no multifunctional rope that is light yet durable.

 

If could reccomend one rope, then I would look at getting a 50-60m X 9-9.5mm since they will last just about as long a 10.2 and they are lighter. You can get 9mm single lines, which I would reccomend, though I have climbed on a single half. Do note that a half rope makes for spongy ride. TR-ing will put a lot of wear on the rope sheath, but if you aren't taking any whippers the core should good for a long time though. I have more problems with skinning ropes developing core shots, so take care to keep your rope of of edges when TR-ing. If you are using it for everything, I wouldn't bother with the dry treatment. They usually last that long.

 

What I would really reccomend though is to get a short 8-9mm for glacier travel and alpine scrambles and then by a 10-10.5mm for TR-ing. You can usually get good deals on short (40-45m) 8-9mm ropes that would work fine for 2 people on a glacier and light for alpine scrambes. 10-10.5mm are very common so it is easy to find close-out sale prices. Talk to shop or call rope manufacturer about getting short ropes.

 

Don't get a static line for TR-ing, you are more likely to break your anchor, harness or self in a small fall. They do make gym ropes, that are somewhat inbetween a static and dynamic, but again I would not reccomend it, they are sort of beastly heavy and usually fat lines. BTW static lines are usually much heavier than dynamic lines. I aggree with Gary, the chance of break a line on crevasse fall is so unlikley.

[bstach]

I agree that the proposed uses are so opposite in their requirements that a dual purpose rope will just suck for one or the other or both.

 

 

My suggestion:

Get 10.5mm for top roping (50m or 60m -whatever you can get cheap, but 60m is prefered)

 

Get 20 or 30m 8mm for glacier travel/scrambling (not sure why double is suggested above - maybe for leading or rescue). I have a 20m 7mm static line that i take scrambling - great for giving my wife a TR on tricky sections, short raps or easy/safe(-ish) glacier crossings (don't lead on it though).

[Jeff W]

For raps using 8mm can an ATC be used? Use 2 biners in this configuration. Thanks.

[DirtyHarry]

Go retro with a nice 30 meter braided hemp number.

[ken4ord]

For raps using 8mm can an ATC be used? Use 2 biners in this configuration. Thanks.

 

2 biners can help create some additional friction, but it is a faster rap. On skinny's I like to girth hitch a sling into my harness and then attach my rappel device to the sling. That way you can keep both hands on the brake line and have more control. Downside if you have long hair be careful not to get it stuck in the device and ascending the rope with the rappel device is near impossible.

 

[Matt Kidd]

Or get one of these...

http://www.bdel.com/gear/atc_xp.php

[selkirk]

Stay the hell away from static ropes unless you really know what your doing! Short (3ft) falls on static rope can generate some really large force. Just a bad idea until your sure you need one.

 

If you really want 1 rope, I'd say go 9.8mm, bi-color/pattern, 50 or 60m, dry. It'll hold up for top roping just fine, and won't be quite as heavy as 10.2 or 10.5

 

And no need to worry about a crevasse fall breaking the rope. Single Ropes are designed for leader falls onto carabiners which generate much higher forces than crevasse falls. That's why lots of people use 8mm ropes for glacier travel, you just don't need the strength of 9.5 or larger single rope to stop a crevasse fall or set up a pulley system.

[jhamaker]

>get a 9mil half rope (50 meter)<

 

I've been getting a *lot* of use out of my 60Mx8mm half ropes ?Beal Icelines?. I tie in to the middle when leading hard rock pitches of 30M or less (lots of stuff like this in the mountains) - this means I'm using double rope technique while leading. For raps and belaying leaders, you will want one of the newer BD devices w/ teeth. I like the Guide. Or a baugette, or a reversino.

I pretty much used up my ?Beal Icelines? in just ove a yr of hard use. There is still some life left in them as 50M ropes.

 

Hmm. Depending on the weight of the climber, the half ropes may stretch more than is comfortable on a top rope. So don't fall. Be cautious while lowereing.

 

 

A fat cheap rope rated single will last for a looong time.

 

Eidelwiess makes ropes w/ extra thick sheathes and some that pass thier "over the edge" test. They have a reputation of being very hard to kill.

 

NB: The best test of when to retire a rope that I've seen involves measuring the exact lenth under a small calibrated load when the rope is new, then re-meauring the lenth after every fall or suspect treatment. But, damn, I forget the important part - what weight load, and what % elongation is acceptable.

Edited March 20, 2008 by jhamaker

[G-spotter]

best multi-purpose rope is the one having the most fun

[hafilax]

I just clicked on this thinking I would see ^^^^

[Jeff W]

Curious --- thought you would see what?

[hafilax]

The ^^^^ indicate a reference to the post above.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

The one having the most fun of course

 

you should buy my brand new 50m 10.5mm rope

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/58187/Number/782964#Post782964

 

[billcoe]

Here's your rope. Not kidding. Link

 

As far as some of you go with your advice, one rope will do it all, people were climbing some of the hardest snow and ice around with 7/16(11mil) goldline ropes 40 years ago. They'd soak up huge water, then freeze solid into a brick or steel-like consistency and people still got up all kinds of interesting shit with them anyway.

 

The 10mil linked will Toprope, lead, and do snow travel. Is it a dry rope? No.

 

Is it cheap? yes.

 

Will it work fine. Sure. Is there a better single rope for you? Maybe a dry rope. Bi-color is nice too, both cost more. You want to spend more or get multiple ropes: be my guest.