RuMR Posted March 6, 2008 Author Posted March 6, 2008 La Sportiva News Beth Rodden Redpoints Meltdown- 5.14c After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yosemite National Park, California. This news is so new check back to see the write up! Quote
AvlNC Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 i've done 1 5.4c crack. its not that big of a deal, oh wait...damn dislexia. 14c, yeah that's different. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 on alpinist.com, they say the grade has not been confirmed yet, nor has rodden suggested a grade... probably harder than 14b... maybe even 14d? not sure how the grades for these sorts of routes work out, given it's hard to get consensus, and a route's difficulty at such a high level may be very dependent on one's body dimensions (overall height/reach, thickness of fingers, etc.) after this report and Colin's article, though, I'm waiting for BD or NF to start selling hyper-expensive duct tape, as it is being used by top climbers for everything from face protection to quick unracking. Quote
sprocket Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 Link to Alpinist article. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-rodden-yosemite-hard-trad She's a freak, glad to see a woman pushing hard trad. Awesome is right! Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 I don't understand -- there's no bolts involved here. And if you didn't want Raindawg to jump in, why did you post? That's almost as dumb as Bush saying, "Bring them on," when he dared the insurgents to attack our troops. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 btw - just my opinion, but your derogatory name for Raindawg is in poor style, especially outside of spray. i guess avatars of mods are not held to a higher standard. Quote
ivan Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 btw - just my opinion, but your derogatory name for Raindawg is in poor style, especially outside of spray. i guess avatars of mods are not held to a higher standard. huh? Quote
StevenSeagal Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 btw - just my opinion, but your derogatory name for Raindawg is in poor style, especially outside of spray. Alright Gary. Just for you. It's gone. My ponytail is extra sensitive now. i guess avatars of mods are not held to a higher standard. I'm Steven. Steven Seagal. I don't understand -- there's no bolts involved here. It matters not... And if you didn't want Raindawg to jump in, why did you post? :irony: I didn't have to post. I was just foretelling the future. Quote
billcoe Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 Raindawg can still weigh in soon with a groupie post.... 3.........2...............1................. Quote
Raindawg Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yeee! Bethy! And after only 5 months of rehearsal! So....do you get extra points if you're a gurl? Quote
TimL Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yeee! Bethy! And after only 5 months of rehearsal! So....do you get extra points if you're a gurl? Figure somebody would say something like this. You gotta understand there are climbers that are gifted like Ondra that can put down multiple 14+ routes in a week. Then you have the really good climbers that have to work there ass off. Then you have us hacks that sit and spray. Anyways, my point is out of several of the 14+ climbers I know, most work on routes for a while before sending. But really, can you imagine what type of shape you have to be in to climb 5.14? Or even 13's? It's unreal. Hat's off to these people and Rodden. If I projected a 14 it would be over 100 years. Quote
StevenSeagal Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 I don't understand -- there's no bolts involved here. And if you didn't want Raindawg to jump in, why did you post? After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yeee! Bethy! And after only 5 months of rehearsal! So....do you get extra points if you're a gurl? :lmao: Hey Raindawg- it's "GRRRRRRRRL!!!", FYI! Do you understand now, Gary? Told you so. Quote
RuMR Posted March 7, 2008 Author Posted March 7, 2008 After 5 months of working it out, Beth Rodden has redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown (5.14c). Meltdown is the world's hardest traditional rock climb done by a woman. Yeee! Bethy! And after only 5 months of rehearsal! So....do you get extra points if you're a gurl? confirmation of the fact that you are a total fuckin' bitter old fool... Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 he's just baitin' ya man. he likes to do that when drunk in the mornings. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 Cobra Crack was projected for a long time too. Quote
Raindawg Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 Think about it... 5 months of rehearsal. I'd be more impressed if she walked up to it and made it happen. 5.14 isn't cutting edge anymore. People make a big deal out of it because she's a gurl. Loads of other folks are climbing 5.14. If she wasn't a gurl, would this even be a some sort of "huge" story? Otherwise, nice effort. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 isn't 5.14+ *trad* still cutting-edge? heck, 5.13+ trad is still cutting-edge in my book, considering how long it took city park to get a true redpoint. she got the first redpoint of the route, rather than a repeat. the route was known for a long time. i don't see any difference between this route and cobra crack. cobra crack was a big deal. yeah, some day some freak will onsight it, but i think there's still plenty of excitement in working hard trad routes. Quote
RuMR Posted March 7, 2008 Author Posted March 7, 2008 Think about it... 5 months of rehearsal. I'd be more impressed if she walked up to it and made it happen. 5.14 isn't cutting edge anymore. People make a big deal out of it because she's a gurl. Loads of other folks are climbing 5.14. If she wasn't a gurl, would this even be a some sort of "huge" story? Otherwise, nice effort. I'll say its a big deal if you worked 5.13 for 5 months and did it no falls...oh wait, we've been down that route before and you buckled then... mid 5.14 crack is not that "common", pal... Quote
sprocket Posted March 7, 2008 Posted March 7, 2008 (edited) How many 5.14 trad routes have been climbed? I suspect it's not that many and that there are only a handful of climbers that have accomplished it. There aren't that many women that have redpoints on bolts at that grade. In the Alpinist link posted earlier it mentions that she onsighted Phoenix 5.13a, is that impressive? Is there something wrong about getting excited when a woman does something that has maybe been done by a man before but not by a woman? Edited March 7, 2008 by sprocket Quote
RuMR Posted March 7, 2008 Author Posted March 7, 2008 no...there's nothing wrong with that...but there is something wrong with don... Quote
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