Gym Jones

[Hendershot]

Definition: Fitness

Fitness

Noun

1. The condition of being suitable; "they had to prove their fitness for the position".

 

2. Good physical condition; being in shape or in condition.

 

3. Fitness to traverse the seas.

 

4. The quality of being qualified.

 

Source: WordNet 1.7.1 Copyright © 2001 by Princeton University. All rights reserved.

 

 

Having a lighter load is more effective (time/distance), but doesn't pertain specifically to one's physical fitness.

[crackers]

 

Rock and Ice #166 pg52: What the heck are Max and LP doing in that photo? Hmmm... could it be?

 

Posing for the camera? bwaaahahaaaaahhaaa

 

nope. i'd say it was turkish getups and tabata intervals...

[RuMR]

Definition: Fitness

Fitness

Noun

1. The condition of being suitable; "they had to prove their fitness for the position".

 

2. Good physical condition; being in shape or in condition.

 

3. Fitness to traverse the seas.

 

4. The quality of being qualified.

 

Source: WordNet 1.7.1 Copyright © 2001 by Princeton University. All rights reserved.

 

 

Having a lighter load is more effective (time/distance), but doesn't pertain specifically to one's physical fitness.

i'm just laughing at john cuz apparently a featherweight, but booocooo expensive dead bird harness is worth it as you might just fall off your route cuz your old model harness was too heavy...duh fucking duh...

[John Frieh]

???

 

Where did I say I was buying one? My BD blizzard is awesome for what I use it for

[Hendershot]

I heard they are redesigning the blizzard for next season. They have been hard to find lately.

[RuMR]

oh just drive up i90...plenty of blizzard action up there...

 

Fuggit, i'm moving to the mediterranean...

[Weekend_Climberz]

Man that cat upthread go pretty riled with the Kool Aid comment, especially considering that the name of the gym is a take-off of Jim Jones, the cult leader who has his entire "congregation" commit suicide by drinking poisoned kool-aid. I thought that was pretty common cultural knowledge, maybe not.

 

I'm glad someone thought it was funny. Sheesh when did this place get so serious??

 

Whoah, you are totally right. I reread my response the other day, and I'm sorry for flaming you man. I think what I meant to say was 'my boss is a total fucking asshole".

 

Now knowing who this came from there's no need to apologize. Props to you :tup:

[John Frieh]

[Dane]

Depends on how you define "fitness"

 

Many ways to define it...and more than one way to achieve it. This being the simpliest I have found. But feel free to pick you own training methods.

 

Just to be clear..I endorse training hard enough to puke, not the Cross Fit program. And I like the image of Pukie the Clown.

 

Edited March 12, 2008 by Dane

[pink_chalk]

 

I drink Kool-Aid for breakfast. Oh Yeah!

[John Frieh]

We believe “artificial” training for a sport (like climbing) is more important at particular stages in the athlete's development.

 

In the beginning a very high level of general fitness will make the specific training for climbing and the climbing itself much more efficient. A high degree of fitness obtained “in the gym” means one need not train fitness and technique on the rock at the same time because fitness is already OK.

 

In the middle part of one’s career technique and movement must become automatic and the athlete must learn to modulate power output efficiently so the tank lasts as long as the task. Practicing the sport itself takes precedent because it’s the most efficient use of both time and energy, which are limited.

 

When technique is developed quite close to the athlete's maximum potential he or she must find other ways to improve, which are outside of the sport. In this period, diet is considered, artificial training revisited, a seasonal or periodized approach to overload and recovery undertaken, the athlete may manipulate body composition and practice sport psychology, etc. None of these things are the sport itself but practicing each improves one's ability to play the sport.

 

As an example, we know a climber who is quite close to achieving his maximum potential, which manifested as a plateau. He understands that doing only more climbing will provide limited results at this level. However, if he improves his core structure (torso-limb integrity), learns to recover faster so he can train more frequently, increases his oxygen efficiency (systemic and cellular) so he can stay longer on the difficult routes ... all of these things will bring him improvements in his climbing. Perhaps he could improve 2-3% in one year, where he might only improve half of one percent in that same year if he simply continued climbing in the rock gym.

 

Artificial training must be balanced with specific training but the opposite is also true and has always been true: super specific training must be balanced with artificial training, with general fitness, with techniques used to correct imbalances and overuse injuries that climbing usually causes. Degrees of emphasis vary throughout the year. Attention to corrective training and general fitness will also allow this climber to profit from his experience in ten years. This is true for every athlete: take care of postural and overuse issues, and injury-proof yourself now or else all of the experience in the world will be wasted because injuries will force you to stop the sport long before you can take advantage of your wisdom and efficiency.

 

Of course, that won’t matter to the athlete who intends to roll over and give in at the age of 30 or 40 ...

 

source

[pink_chalk]

Frieh.... Did you already put in an order for T-shirts and stickers?

 

-Jennifer

[RuMR]

We believe “artificial” training for a sport (like climbing) is more important at particular stages in the athlete's development.

 

In the beginning a very high level of general fitness will make the specific training for climbing and the climbing itself much more efficient. A high degree of fitness obtained “in the gym” means one need not train fitness and technique on the rock at the same time because fitness is already OK.

 

In the middle part of one’s career technique and movement must become automatic and the athlete must learn to modulate power output efficiently so the tank lasts as long as the task. Practicing the sport itself takes precedent because it’s the most efficient use of both time and energy, which are limited.

 

When technique is developed quite close to the athlete's maximum potential he or she must find other ways to improve, which are outside of the sport. In this period, diet is considered, artificial training revisited, a seasonal or periodized approach to overload and recovery undertaken, the athlete may manipulate body composition and practice sport psychology, etc. None of these things are the sport itself but practicing each improves one's ability to play the sport.

 

As an example, we know a climber who is quite close to achieving his maximum potential, which manifested as a plateau. He understands that doing only more climbing will provide limited results at this level. However, if he improves his core structure (torso-limb integrity), learns to recover faster so he can train more frequently, increases his oxygen efficiency (systemic and cellular) so he can stay longer on the difficult routes ... all of these things will bring him improvements in his climbing. Perhaps he could improve 2-3% in one year, where he might only improve half of one percent in that same year if he simply continued climbing in the rock gym.

 

Artificial training must be balanced with specific training but the opposite is also true and has always been true: super specific training must be balanced with artificial training, with general fitness, with techniques used to correct imbalances and overuse injuries that climbing usually causes. Degrees of emphasis vary throughout the year. Attention to corrective training and general fitness will also allow this climber to profit from his experience in ten years. This is true for every athlete: take care of postural and overuse issues, and injury-proof yourself now or else all of the experience in the world will be wasted because injuries will force you to stop the sport long before you can take advantage of your wisdom and efficiency.

 

Of course, that won’t matter to the athlete who intends to roll over and give in at the age of 30 or 40 ...

 

source

 

well...already rolled over and gave up in my 30's...NEXT!

[RuMR]

i remember watching mark twat climbing at smith in the early 90's sketching all over mid 5.10's at smith thinking to myself "So, this is alpinist-extraordinaire?"

 

Maybe he worked on that whole little skill acquisition bit in the meantime...

[catbirdseat]

And this surprised you? People excel at the specific skills they train for.

 

Someone once said to Ed Viesturs, "Ed, I hear you only climb 5.10". Ed replied, "Yeah, 5.10 at 25,000 ft in plastic boots while wearing a 20 lb pack".

[Ring angle claw]

 

Someone once said to Ed Viesturs, "Ed, I hear you only climb 5.10". Ed replied, "Yeah, 5.10 at 25,000 ft in plastic boots while wearing a 20 lb pack".

 

Which equals class 3. Would probably go no handed at sea level.

Edited April 26, 2008 by Ring angle claw

[RuMR]

And this surprised you? People excel at the specific skills they train for.

 

Someone once said to Ed Viesturs, "Ed, I hear you only climb 5.10". Ed replied, "Yeah, 5.10 at 25,000 ft in plastic boots while wearing a 20 lb pack".

actually, catturdeat, the level of spray coming out of dorkter doom was unbelievable, so yeah it kinda surprised me...

[ashw_justin]

I bet he couldn't even campus the problem with the blue tape in the cave either. Can't believe these alpine 'climbers.'

[RuMR]

whatever assworked...