andrewbanandrew Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 (edited) Some friends and I want to get out climbing over spring break. I'm still a sport climbing gumby though I just bought a rack (and conveniently tore a pulley two weeks after I bought it). I've been to North Bend, Vantage, Squamish, Leavenworth, City of Rocks, Shelf Road, and Boulder Canyon, and I've liked every place except Boulder. My friends are pretty damn new to climbing, they've led a few routes here or there but for the most part they just started in the gym 6 months to a year ago. Do you guys have any recommendations for a 5-7 day trip where there's sport climbing between 5.8-5.12, easy cracks for a trad newb, and maybe even some multi-pitch sport climbing? We'd be driving from Seattle... Off the top of my head I can think of Red Rocks and maybe City of Rocks again but I don't know how cold it will be. Edited January 3, 2008 by andrewbanandrew Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Index! If it rains, head to Oregon or Eastern WA. If you drive to So Cal and the weather is good and snow not so bad check out Lovers Leap or Phantom Spires. The Valley could be fine then too. Maybe Pinnacles if it storms. J tree is fun but also over rated. I've climbed in all these area every month of the year. Sometimes with quite a bit of snow around. Although that limits your choices quite a bit. Castle Crags could be really nice then too. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Yo what dates? I will be in Arizona in March for 10 days. Quote
high_on_rock Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Red rocks without any doubt. temps will be warm/hot, will be able to do all the sport or easy trad you can imagine. Quote
goatboy Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Index! If it rains, head to Oregon or Eastern WA. If you drive to So Cal and the weather is good and snow not so bad check out Lovers Leap or Phantom Spires. The Valley could be fine then too. Maybe Pinnacles if it storms. J tree is fun but also over rated. I've climbed in all these area every month of the year. Sometimes with quite a bit of snow around. Although that limits your choices quite a bit. Castle Crags could be really nice then too. Never heard J Tree called over-rated before. Curious why you would think so. SMITH ROCK is a good call for a more local option that meets all of the needs you stated, without the long drives. CITY OF ROCKS will be under snow in March. Quote
billcoe Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 With 10' of new powder due for Donner Summit this week, with all due respect, it would be more suited to eating your parters than belaying them in March. Red Rocks, Smith and Joshua Tree would top my list due to the huge variety of climbing and potential for great weather. BUT, I once drove to RR in March and it rained every day. Turns out - there was no rain at Smith and perfect weather that whole time. So if it was me, I'd pick the location based on weather the day before or so. Sounds like you folks will have a great trip, btw, you might consider doing some ground school work with them, ie, practicing belaying and anchoring on the ground before you head down. Some may think its silly to have a dude standing on the ground belaying you as you walk towards them, but I am not one of them. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 Snow might be a problem but three months from now it may be a different story. Certainly the Leap is not Donner Summit and Sugarloaf is even lower.. If you are driving south I think you’d be crazy not to stop 8 hours north of J-tree if the weather was good and the rock climbable. The Valley is even lower elevation but doesn’t have nearly as many good moderates as the Leap. Spring conditions are always variable: I’ve been snowed on in J-Tree in April! If they are driving from Seattle to J-Tree they will only be 90 minutes from the Leap when they hit Sac. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 From Supertopo: December–March: Due to the bleak climbing conditions, nobody climbs in South Lake Tahoe in the winter. Snow covers the base and summits of most cliffs, temperatures are often freezing and the rock is wet. During cold years ice forms on the right side of the East Wall at Lover's Leap making for the rare California multi-pitch ice climb. April: Wet rock and unstable weather usually make April a terrible time to climb at South Lake Tahoe. However, in an extremely dry year April can have great weather and be free of crowds. Sugar Loaf and the Spires are several thousand feet lower in elevation than the other areas. Farely on Sugar Loaf:(p1 is 5.9 the rest is easier) This is an exciting three pitch climb. The last pitch traversing across the face is super. I climbed it in February. 20 ‘ approach from highway. CandyLand at Phantom Spires. Knobby 5.10b. I climbed it in December. This formation is 5-10 minutes uphill from Candyland. Ok I’ve never climbed here in winter but this faces south. This route is 5.7 the corner is 5.9 I climbed this route (5.7)in March with a ton of snow at the base. Dont forget Castle Crags! Anyway just ideas its nice to have choices. All these routes will be as good as anything in J-Tree. Quote
billcoe Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 All these routes will be as good as anything in J-Tree. better! Great pics too! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 3, 2008 Posted January 3, 2008 (edited) The pics are on Supertopo. Conditions links +> http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=300084&msg=300231#msg300231 http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=157615&msg=160244#msg160244 http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=118554&msg=129197#msg129197 http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=64505&msg=64527#msg64527 http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=64021&msg=64051#msg64051 Edited January 4, 2008 by Peter_Puget Quote
powderhound Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Indian Creek or Flagstaff/sedona area heard bishop, huecco, or porto chico in mexico is good during the early spring late winter but never been there. City of rocks WILL be too cold, no drinking water and maybe bring crampons and ice picks. Quote
Off_White Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Powderhound, this quote from the original request: Do you guys have any recommendations for a 5-7 day trip where there's sport climbing between 5.8-5.12, easy cracks for a trad newb, and maybe even some multi-pitch sport climbing? We'd be driving from Seattle... suggests that while the weather might be nice, Indian Creek may be the worst choice in the country for this party. I think PP's lobbying effort for Sugarloaf/Phantom Spires sounds very intriguing. It's always been summer when I'm in the area, and the Spires are too hot then. A one day drive too, good objective for only a week. Quote
andyf Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 From Supertopo: [ CandyLand at Phantom Spires. Knobby 5.10b. I climbed it in December. CandyLand might be a bit spicy for a beginning trad leader, PP. And I remember it being spot-on .10c, with one of the cruxes involving a jump off a huge knob, with the knob being slung for your only pro. Witness this dude: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/tahoe_vicinity/phantom_spires/106038774 Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 (edited) When I did did it the guidebook only said 5.10. I don't remember a jump but you have to admit some of those knobs are pretty bomber! Mp has this picture. The obvious corner is 5.9 and the face to its left is 5.7. Last time I climbed there (before fire) were big pine trees everywhere. I just noticed that he wanted multi-pitch sport. There is very little multi-pitch sport in the Tahoe area. BUT if the weather Gods co-operated the East Wall (3 pitches 5.6) at the Leap would be a great trad route. Good pro and the best 5.6 climbing anywhere. The Pinnacles has a bunch of good sport clims and is a fun place to hang. Link Definately climbable in March. Anyway at the very least the area can be a fun way to break up the drive. Edited January 4, 2008 by Peter_Puget Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 4, 2008 Posted January 4, 2008 Just had to link to this picture from the Supertopo site of the Pinnacles! Quote
andyf Posted January 5, 2008 Posted January 5, 2008 The obvious corner is 5.9 and the face to its left is 5.7. The overhanging left wall of the corner is a fun 5.11 toprope (thin crack) if you avoid stemming out. Too contrived to lead. Quote
andrewbanandrew Posted January 6, 2008 Author Posted January 6, 2008 hmm I just noticed that the Red Rocks Rendezvous is the last weekend of March...does this mean camping will be a clusterfuck? Quote
powderhound Posted January 8, 2008 Posted January 8, 2008 hmm I just noticed that the Red Rocks Rendezvous is the last weekend of March...does this mean camping will be a clusterfuck? The Rendezvous brings wanks in from all over the country. I have left Red Rocks twice because of it and the red river gorge earlier this year as well. I climbing and not partyin is what you want to do don't be there when it is going on. Stay until then and then head north to St. George, they have some sweet climbing there and it is only a couple hours north of vegas. or you could go to one of them other areas around vegas. Quote
AvlNC Posted January 8, 2008 Posted January 8, 2008 yes camping will be fucked and people will start coming in early which sucks cuz that is a great time of year to be there. it starts to pick up a little at smith at that time but just walk around back and have it all to yourself. or hang out in the main area with all the bro-bras. how easy are you looking for trad stuff? Quote
Argus Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 The good thing about the RRR is that the canyons can be empty during the event. Everyone is busy doing the clinics and nobody is climbing the long routes. Plus you can climb some of the classics after the weekend and beef up your rack. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 Another thing to consider is drive time. If you're gone for 5 days (120 hours) Red Rock is 16hrs more than mid state Calif. If Mid State Ca sucks you can continue on to J Tree. Or like I did once when all of Ca was way too cold, as was Smith go back to Vantage! Pinnacles fun! Sweet 5.6 Trad climb! Should get am sun! This great 5.5 bolted climb is just a few yards to the left. Quote
Winter Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 ohh yeah, the phantom spires rock. i saw a kid from UofO struggle mightily on the .10 knob fest. he got sketched on the knobs and then forgot any small gear for the cracks at the top. Quote
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