[TR] Comb Buttress - Over The Rainbow 10/14/2007

[Otto]

Trip: Comb Buttress - Over The Rainbow

 

Date: 10/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

Trying to squeeze in a last good climb of the season, we picked a clearing trend in mid-October and got what we wanted. I couldn't believe I had never been up on The Comb Buttress before, but old habits are changing fast now. Partnering with a grand master will do that. I wanted to do one of the best routes at the crag, and David suggested his route Over The Rainbow.

 

On Sunday morning I tottered up the trail, head heavy like a lead slug, having camped out across the valley with Knob Creek. We'd squandered the first two days misreading the weather and driving all over the state, although we did a couple of nice pitches along the Tieton...! The broken plans for a glorious three day adventure had forced me into the Darrington liquor store for memory reducers.

 

The trail is in fairly good shape, but a huge log at the top required some careful stepping. A slip off that thing would result in a plunge of about 12 feet into broken sticks and the unknown. Finally at the base, the discomfort continued as there is no flat place, but who could complain with the golden leaves all around and the air warming up?

 

The first of the three pitches is on knobs, and begins with two sloping ramps where I found the crux to be. Stepping up high on one knob, reaching far right with the other foot and pulling hard over with one hand, stick that foot! Then clean, white granite in little waves.

 

 

 

 

David led the second pitch of interesting reaches for more knobs. I admired the orange and yellow forest, wondered and worried a bit about the crack above.

 

 

 

It was good to get the fingers into something. It never gets very strenuous as the slab beside the crack is covered with good bumps and not so steep.

 

 

 

 

 

photos by David Whitelaw

 

There is so much good rock up here on The Comb. We walked along the base all the way over to Tongue in Cheek. With David providing commentary, I gathered intentions along the way. I'd exclaim, "Wow, look at that cool crack!" and he'd say, "That was done by Don Brooks in 1973...". Or, "This abortion was performed by ___ ". Like climbing with a walking guidebook.

 

There is a lot more to Darrington than Three O'Clock and Dreamer and Exfo Dome. People looking for an adventurous day should head up to Comb Buttress once in a while. Here's hoping the coming winter won't be too hard on the road below.

 

Gear Notes:

Draws, nuts, a couple of cams around 2", and TCUs.

 

Approach Notes:

The trailhead is easy to find, there is a small wooden grating-like bridge over the ditch.

[Kat_Roslyn]

Sweet climbing.

Sweet handlebar stash.

[skykilo]

Spectacular fall colors in that belay photo.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

looks like a nice route. how is the fixed hardware?

[Otto]

Good, modern 3/8" stainless. Funny you should ask, however. David got the anchor chains from Fixe which were billed as powder-coated stainless. Now, four years later, rust is showing through. Check it out. WTF?

 

[hanman]

I have been in contact with FixeUSA re this about a year ago, they apparently accidentally powdercoated their non-stainless version of what we usually see around here. The rep seemed willing to exchange these on a 1 for 1 basis if returned to them. I have replaced a couple sets on Blueberry Hill since. They appear to corrode quickly when the powdercoat wears through, as they do not have any galvanized coating.

 

Mark Hanna

[curtveld]

A sweet-looking route with that thin little corner. Sounds like the approach trail from the road is better than the hobbit path over from 3 O’clock rock. Hope that wooden grate is still there come next spring.

[mattp]

Don't believe everything you read in Rock Climbing Washington. There never was a trail over from 3:00 rock. Two guys went that way once, but it was never a good idea. Many have followed.

 

Right now, I'm just hoping the road makes it through the night.

[curtveld]

I've done it numerous times and I assure you that it's a sketchy little trail that crosses the creek on a HUGE old growth log with steps cut into it and such. Really adds to the feeling of finding a secret climbing spot that the Comb has traditionally been.

 

Maybe you're overdue for a little bourbon or something, Matt?

[mattp]

Sketchy for sure. I've been that way a few times myself. Bourbon? I don't think it will help much.

'

It is a trail the same way that "Beanberry Delight" is a route. Good luck.

 

A better bet is to get Whitelaw's CD, or maybe Gunstone put it in the Traveller's Guide. The approach straight up from the road below (to the base of both the first and third teeth of The Comb) is far easier than thrashing accross from 3:00 Rock.

[shapp]

chopper sick balls!

[Off_White]

I found the walk straight up from the road rather pleasant, there are some really great trees on that slope. Thanks for the TR on this, way to snatch a route from the late season .

[curtveld]

Comb access update:

 

Matt is right, the trail over from 3 OCR is pretty much gone.

 

The direct trail is pretty sketchy but a better option. Hard to follow the thread due to downed branches, but as long as you stay under the timber, 'when in doubt - go uphill' works out OK. Watch carefully for the turnoff from the road - it's none too obvious.

 

But either way, it's worth it. Great climbing up there.

[curtveld]

I found the walk straight up from the road rather pleasant, there are some really great trees on that slope.

Matt and I revisited the Comb and it's still a gem. The trail...er, route up...starts about a hundred yards after the turn-around spot a bit beyond the 3OC trailhead. Find a bunch of logs laid across the ditch and head up into the second-growth, follow a thread of orange flags through the huge cedars and up to the crag. It basically zig-zags straight up the hill and is fairly brush free.

 

Over the Rainbow is as classic as ever. That knobby face is nice and clean despite minimal traffic and the hardware (early 2000's vintage) is in fine shape. A great place to check out as the fall colors kick in.