Grip Strength

[spotly]

Normally I'd just hit Wild Walls during the winter but I may not be able to do that for another month or so. I've been working my core but not sure if my grip exercises are effective for climbing.

 

What's the best exercises you've found that increase hand strength specific to climbing? I need something to work with that doesn't stress the shoulder and elbow areas too much - campus board would be out!

 

So far I've looked into the therapy putty used for rehabbing hands - seems good. A weight hanging below a gripped towel seems to be working ok too. I've also read mixed opinions on using the standard spring grip strenghteners-some sources say they won't help a lot for climbing specific muscles. Anyhoo, these seem good but I'm interested in hearing if they (or others) have helped specific to staying in climbing shape when climbing isn't a real option for awhile.

 

[Added] Hey! I got a nick-name! Special! Never mind - I see that's just some standard title thingy.

[builder206]

Farmer's walk. Works everything specific to the grip. Tremendously effective strengthener. Start with, say, 24kg in each hand and walk 400 meters total. Do not look down, look out towards your path: this will keep you standing up straight. Don't let your back round, keep your chest up and out.

 

Longer is not better. Shoot for a 400 meter walk with a weight in each hand so heavy that you have to put it down 3 or 4 times before you are done. Do farmer's walk only every other day, no more. If you can cover 400 meters without having to put the weights down a few times, they're too light. When finished, your hands and forearms should feel totally spent/wasted/thrashed.

[spotly]

Great idea. I could rig up some old webbing into a couple of carrying slings and haul rocks up Beacon Hill. Of course, that's a mile up but I could use less weight and/or not carry it so far.

 

What kinda grip do you think - a loop or just a strand? Maybe a tennis ball handle?

[i_like_sun]

I've got this spring loaded devise where you can change the resistance by changing the position of the springs. It works REALLY WELL!

[builder206]

Great idea. I could rig up some old webbing into a couple of carrying slings and haul rocks up Beacon Hill. Of course, that's a mile up but I could use less weight and/or not carry it so far.

 

What kinda grip do you think - a loop or just a strand? Maybe a tennis ball handle?

 

Best to use something with a solid handle. See if you can get two dumbbells, like on Craigslist or on sale at Big 5. That way you keep your grip tight rather than letting a soft grip like webbing settle into the structure of the hand. You have to keep the grip tight which means you have to have something to grip. Webbing won't cut it. I can see webbing really screwing up your hands.

 

Like I said, longer is NOT better. A mile with light weights accomplishes nothing particularly useful for your grip. Do it as Rx'ed in my post. 24kg/side (a bit more than 50 lbs.) over 400 yards really stresses out some very powerful athletes I work out with. It's tried and proven, and wicked effective.

Edited November 24, 2007 by builder206

[TyClimber]

Captains of Crush grippers! There are several different levels of resistance and it can become something of an obsession trying to move through them.

[foraker]

If it stresses out some very powerful athletes, don't you reckon he ought to ramp up to using 24kg/side instead of going for it on day one? Actually curious, not being snarky.

[sexual_chocolate]

Normally I'd just hit Wild Walls during the winter but I may not be able to do that for another month or so. I've been working my core but not sure if my grip exercises are effective for climbing.

 

What's the best exercises you've found that increase hand strength specific to climbing? I need something to work with that doesn't stress the shoulder and elbow areas too much - campus board would be out!

 

So far I've looked into the therapy putty used for rehabbing hands - seems good. A weight hanging below a gripped towel seems to be working ok too. I've also read mixed opinions on using the standard spring grip strenghteners-some sources say they won't help a lot for climbing specific muscles. Anyhoo, these seem good but I'm interested in hearing if they (or others) have helped specific to staying in climbing shape when climbing isn't a real option for awhile.

 

[Added] Hey! I got a nick-name! Special! Never mind - I see that's just some standard title thingy.

 

What are you trying to do, man? Are you trying to climb harder rock climbs, or what? Ice axes in hand, or bouldering, or what?

 

Hauling weights around a track might help if you're gripping ice axes up some stuff, but i see it doing very little for rock climbing. Hang on a fingerboard, and you'll notice much better climbing-specific improvement. Find a good workout routine for a fingerboard, then stick to it for a couple of months.

[JackY]

 

What does carrying that much weight with your arms do to your back?

[builder206]

If it stresses out some very powerful athletes, don't you reckon he ought to ramp up to using 24kg/side instead of going for it on day one? Actually curious, not being snarky.

 

Come to think of it, when I started almost 2 years ago I used 16kg and *that* was murder. Even now sometimes I carry only 20kg. I frikkin hate it when I get caught out. I swore I'd never be taken alive.

[builder206]

What does carrying that much weight with your arms do to your back?

 

You keep your head up looking out ahead of you---that instinctively keeps you standing up straight. For that it will also help the muscles that give you an upright posture.

[tvashtarkatena]

A bunch of studies have shown that the quickest way increase muscle strength to weight ratio (keep the bulk down) is to perform muscle specific exercises (like the aforementioned gripper devices) as follows: 1 set, 8 to 12 reps UNTIL MUSCLE FAILURE no more often than every other day. A second set can increase strength another 15% faster for some people, but it usually does nothing other than burn calories, and there are more efficient ways to do that. More than 2 sets just burns calories.

 

Using muscle specific devices like grippers means that you'll be working those specific muscles to failure. With less specific types of exercise, another muscle might fail before your grippers do; inefficient workout.

 

Above is a formula for increasing strength/weight as quickly as possible. Increasing muscle endurance and training for sport specific motions using multiple muscle groups (boards, pullups, etc) is another matter but also well advised.

 

Carrying heavy weights around seems like a formula for joint and back injury to me. It also doesn't seem to be a sport specific motion used in climbing, although it may be useful if you're planning on doing a lot farm work. I'd be interested in seeing some research supporting why this is a particularly efficient work out regimen for climbing.

[dmuja]

Carrying heavy weights around seems like a formula for joint and back injury to me.

 

Ya, can you say bulging disc"?

 

Carrying (and hopefully not swinging) heavy-ish free weights around while walking can easily pull something as the whole act is rather complex - biomechanically speaking that is. Young'ns can often get away with it though.

 

I use a common spring loaded gripper thingy, also do standing barbell wrist curls both forward and reverse with moderately heavy weight (thought it was called the "Eastern bloc" method?). This gives u the lactic "pump" identical to rock climbing.

[Rad]

Fingerboard vs spring loaded gripper doodad: which do you favor and why?

 

Please post links to your favorite cuz Santa is coming!!!

 

 

[catbirdseat]

Fingerboards are expensive and require installation, but are much better than spring loaded grippers because they better simulate the loading you'd get in real climbing.

 

The big trick is to get yourself to use it regularly!

[dmuja]

 

I don't use finger boards precisely BECAUSE its so close to hard climbing. Im thinking you may as well just climb. Also because to much of the same exercise often results in over use injuries (as my finger joints can attest to). Its just my own preference, but for variety and holistic muscle tendon development I use the grippers and weights. On rare occasions I'll hang from a board at the gym usually just to try it or to warm up.

 

If your goal is "five extreme" though Im sure a campus/hang/finger board should be in your plan.

[spotly]

Thanks for all the great ideas. I tried the farmers carry a few days ago and really paid for it in my shoulder and elbow so I think that's out. As mentioned before, I can't do the campus board thing for awhile either. The hanging bumbell curl has worked well for me in the past and even though it causes some pull on the elbow, I don't think it'll be too bad...I'll give it a try.

[tvashtarkatena]

I'm looking for a gripper thingy that can be set to a high resistance so I can do the 8 to 12 reps til failure thing. What's the best one?

 

 

[i_like_sun]

I'll sell you my spring loaded thingy.

[joshenj]

http://www.ironmind.com/ironmind/opencms/ironmind/

 

i belive i started with the trainer

[tvashtarkatena]

Another, cheaper option:

 

The ViceGripper

 

Even cheaper:

 

Ivanko Super Gripper

 

Changing positions of the two springs that come with the original product offers 40 different force settings from 45 to 345 lbs. That would seem to be enough for any gorilla on this board. I think I'll get me one of these things and try it out.

Edited November 26, 2007 by tvashtarkatena

[Peter_Puget]

I use a common spring loaded gripper thingy, also do standing barbell wrist curls both forward and reverse with moderately heavy weight (thought it was called the "Eastern bloc" method?). This gives u the lactic "pump" identical to rock climbing.

 

This is a fun exercise but if you’re getting a “pump” your workout isn’t optimized for increasing strength. I have done these as part of a general conditioning plan.

 

Fingerboards are expensive and require installation, but are much better than spring loaded grippers because they better simulate the loading you'd get in real climbing.

 

Just make your own with wood blocks. With a little effort you can make a really great board.

 

I don't use finger boards precisely BECAUSE its so close to hard climbing. Im thinking you may as well just climb.

 

Climbing hard won’t be nearly as effective as finger board training at developing strength. Depending on how hard you are climbing and your personal strengths and weaknesses specific grip training may not be the most advantageous place to concentrate your efforts.

 

Once your back in the gym, try bouldering pyramids if you want to mix climbing with strength training.

 

[tvashtarkatena]

This is a fun exercise but if you’re getting a “pump” your workout isn’t optimized for increasing strength.

 

Say wut? If you're doing 8 to 12 reps and getting a pump until muscle failure, this a precisely the formula for increasing strength to (muscle) weight as quickly as possible.

 

You may be referring to increasing muscle endurance, which requires the addition of a different regimens of longer duration, lower intensity exercise.

Edited November 26, 2007 by tvashtarkatena

[Peter_Puget]

[tvashtarkatena]

Whatever makes you feel better about your spray quality opinions, dude.