Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Wakaranai

ROTC question

Recommended Posts

I was wondering how ROTC compares to climbs like Clean Crack or Crime of the Century as far as difficulty goes. I have heard some people say that ROTC is light for an 11c but others have said different. Does it pro nice all the way? Someone mentioned a wide flare high up? Gear to 3 inches? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

-Brandon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't need the #3.

it protects fine the whole way.

crux is the right leaning .75camalot sized crack.

Have fun, it's an awesome crack.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The "wide flare" is an awkward pod up high where you can get a decent rest- then you exit that on splitter hands/thin hands (#1 and #2 BD).

 

It's different than Crime of the Century and Clean Crack, it's steeper, but with more secure jams.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought it felt like 5.10-. When I said that my partner about punched me. Still, I think it fells easier than the grade. Nevertheless, a classic. The climb is thin hands, rattley fingers and maybe a handjam or two. Its really more of an endurance climb more than anything. Easier than Clean Crack and Crime. But both of those are finger cracks that are kinda slabby and yout on your feet.

 

Somebody should go up and rebolt the Dagoba System. Looks like a killer line. Whats the name of the 11d down and to the right of ROTC? Looks nice. Stevens Pass Motel?

Edited by TimL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah Stevens Pass Motel is below and to the left of ROTC when looking up.

There's a cool 11b right below ROTC. Starts in a cool slot, then exits steeply into thin hands and smeary feet. Super fun.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's so nice up there this time of year. You should check out Easter Overhang. Great route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's so nice up there this time of year. You should check out Easter Overhang. Great route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's so nice up there this time of year. You should check out Easter Overhang. Great route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's so nice up there this time of year. You should check out Easter Overhang. Great route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pics from trip up to Midnight Rock last October (Ropeup 2006). The rock up there is awesome.

 

ROTC:

ROTC.jpg

 

View from ROTC ledge:

ROTCView.jpg

 

Easter Overhang:

MidnightRock3.jpg

 

MidnightRock2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you pull into the flare, pull in with your right side in. You can't switch to use the rest if you pull in left side in. I think clean crack is easier than rotc (and not nearly as good).

 

Tim, you are so right about Dagobah system. The moves are thrilling but a little licheny.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It probably depends who you talk to, but ROTC is way more physical than the Squamish climbs you mention. The hardest move is probably 10+ but until you reach the hand crack below the pod, there aren't too many great rests, probably because it's slightly over vertical.

 

Clean Crack has a disco crux and feels relatively relaxing (once climbed it with four stoppers and a swammi belt). My first trip up ROTC (with MisterE) was 5 feet short of success when I couldn't squirm through the pod, due to fatigue and too much clothing. Even if you're cold, strip down when you're ready to climb. You'll heat up quickly. Two years later I nailed it but it felt even harder. Scotty Hopkins was on jumars photographing and I've got a calendar-quality shot of him as well as photos of a very young Jason Mikos making it look easy. I'll see if I can locate them.

 

Easter Overhang is one of the best 5.10 climbs in the Washington. There used to be a fixed bong and some jugs so good you could cut your feet loose for a spectacularly exposed dip into the chalk bag.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great pics, Id love to see more. If its even better than clean crack then Im really stoked to try it. Was hoping this weekend but the weather....!@%$#$. Oh well I suppose its not going anywhere. The Sting looks like a pretty cool approach pitch, and easier than the others mentioned. Ill need to save all the juice I can to get up ROTC. Thanks for the Beta!

-B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Clean Crack is a textbook finger crack. ROTC a textbook thin- hand/hand, steep enduro crack. ROTC has better textured rock and is way more physical.

 

Agreed on Easter. I remember when it was only 5.9 ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×