As a dad, as a climber, and as a concerned person.

[Adam13]

So when one quits and the other keeps straining that means they become what, DIFFERENT???

[RuMR]

no, it means that the smaller climber isn't going to pick up any more force because he's STOPPED...the big guy is continuing to pick up load (unless the function has zero slope at this particular point, unlikely, but if it does, the term would be yield). Whether the function is linear or nonlinear is irrelevent...both climbers track through the same function.

Edited September 20, 2007 by RuMR

[ericb]

isn't the more likely injury based on what they fall on/swing into vs. the G-forces exerted by the rope?

Edited September 20, 2007 by ericb

[Adam13]

Of course, but what they fall onto and how far they fall would not start a longwinded physics debate, thus giving us nothing to talk about.

[G-spotter]

How many preteen kids have died or been seriously injured leading trad?

[Adam13]

I have no clue but if this thread is any idication allowing pre-teens to lead climb isn't all that common. Atleast when it comes to kids as young as were mentioned here.

Edited September 20, 2007 by Adam13

[Choada_Boy]

Nothin happens instanty. You know far too little about science to lecture me. The thousanths of a seconds in difference when an object comes to a stop can be the difference between being shaken up and being bagged up.

Keep calling me Aristotle, it only shows how fucking stupid you really are.

 

 

You are right. Nothing happens "instanty". It takes "thousanths" of a second. Thank you for pointing out how fucking stupid you are. Your knowledge of basic physics resembles that of the ancient Greeks, Aristotle. Please tell me that you're not an engineer or make anything that peoples lives are dependent on.

[catbirdseat]

Choada_Boy, you appear to be reverting inexorably towards equivalence with one of your earlier avatars.

[Adam13]

Shut your ingorant fuckin mouth. Like i said before a change in the deceleration something even thousanths of a second makes a huge difference. If you can't get tthis through your head it is because you are stupid, blame you parents or teachers, not me.

[ericb]

Based on what I'd guess 7 year-olds would be leading, by the time they fell far enough that there would be injuries from rope inelasticity, they've decked

[Adam13]

Yeah I'd say so too. This thread took a course more suitable for spray.

[Choada_Boy]

My favorite part is how you've so far failed to mention "kinetic energy" or "impulse" in your carefully thought out dissertation, and seem to not understand how a stress/strain curve describes the behavior of a dynamic system in tension under a fixed load. Perhaps you'd care to describe how the stress/strain curve would change under a diminished load, or can tell me the difference between yield and ultimate strength. And I'm DYING to read how you'd calculate the "force" acting upon a falling six year old lead climber, maybe a younger you, at 55kg.

[Adam13]

When I've got as much time on my hands as you I will get right on it.

[G-spotter]

And I'm DYING to read how you'd calculate the "force" acting upon a falling six year old lead climber, maybe a younger you, at 55kg.

 

fat kid

[Adam13]

Yeah any 6-8 year old that weighs 55kg has bigger problems than surviving a climbing fall.

[JayB]

This thread is crying out for Bill Zaumen of rec.climbing fame.

 

I remember reading a mega-thread there about core vs. sheath loading dynamics that would put this sucker to shame.

[JayB]

Not quite the thread I was looking for, but captures the essence of the discussion...

 

"

 

Mad Dog

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More options Aug 21 2001, 5:05 am

Newsgroups: rec.climbing

From: Mad Dog

Date: 21 Aug 2001 04:36:42 -0700

Local: Tues, Aug 21 2001 4:36 am

Subject: Re: Sliding X - Good or Bad

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Zaumoron works the Drone Therapy:

 

>Mad Dog wrote:

>>Bill, Melissa didn't specify that the sling had to be cut, she said "fail".

>With people mostly using sewn runners, the most likely sling failure would

>be due to the sling being cut.

 

You just don't get it. One could easily extend your argument and more closely

approximate the truth by saying: "With many people buying high-tech sewn runners

(such as Spectra) which are very cut-resistant, the most likely sling failure is

due to a failed water knot on a tied sling." Again, it would be hard for you to

argue with this, since you personally have been involved in sling failure when a

knot came untied, eh?

 

>[about shock loading]

>>John Long disagrees.

>I'll disagree with respect to short falls of about a foot. If you

>go 3 or 4 feet, it's a different situation, which is probably what

>John was refering to.

 

Then you would again be blatantly wrong. From page 59 of "Climbing Anchors":

 

"No extension means that if one of the anchors in the system should fail, the

system will not suddenly become slack and drop the climber a short distance,

shock-loading the remaining anchors."

 

Bill, don't try to tell me you know more about anchors than John Long. You have

said in this thread that short extensions do not cause shock loads but I have

shown clearly that a leading expert and respected technique author clearly is in

disagreement.

 

How did you manage to fit that foot in your mouth when it is so far up your ass?"

[Choada_Boy]

Yeah any 6-8 year old that weighs 55kg has bigger problems than surviving a climbing fall.

 

I bet you're glad you weren't lead climbing back then. BTW: How do you wipe yourself these days? Rag on a stick? If you have a second, what's the force on the rag at the instant you wipe?

[Adam13]

My first lead climb was a succesful ascent of your moms lower central rib.

[Choada_Boy]

Awesome! A new "Mom" joke! Just what the world was missing!

 

Got those forces calculated yet?

[Jens]

...and i'd shoot the first bastard that mentions chris linder

[Lambone]

6 is too young. way to young.

[G-spotter]

This thread needs a Lambone - Kevbone smackbone, I mean smackdown

[Bug]

Group hug.

Wankers.