Wired or Slung???

[chucK]

quote:

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Originally posted by haireball:

it accepts 5mm accessory cord, which is stronger than the swage on the wired version. In 1979, I took a 30' winger onto exactly this setup at Smith. I have no reservations about the 5mm cord.

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Hmmm? So you're talking about 5mm perlon? I didn't think that was supposed to be anywhere near as strong as it should be to hold a leader fall. I think the shoelaces that came with my Synchros are thicker than that! I guess I better check out those specs again.

 

Are you perhaps talking about that gemini or whatever, super-strength cord? That is the stuff that I thought was supposed to be strong enough, but I can't find it in any climbing shop in Seattle (unless I buy a 50 foot spool).

[haireball]

Chuck,

 

the LOOP STRENGTH (slightly less than double the strength of a single strand) of plain old 5mm perlon is well above that of a copper swage on small-diameter wire cable. it actually comes close to the impact force on most modern dynamic ropes, and is well above the impact force of most half-rope setups. so a 5mm perlon loop is unlikely to break except in a very high factor fall onto a virtually static belay.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by freeclimb9:

wired cuz that's the way they're made these days.

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Not true you can buy wild country slung hexes.

[CraigA]

So, is the Maxim Tech Cord (5mm) the right stuff or are you talking about something else? I just got 2-#11's and 2-#7's and I'm looking for slinging material.

 

Craig

[iain]

I've found the tech cord to be very stiff. Sometimes this is good, sometimes, not so convenient.

[CraigA]

So does that mean it does or doesn't work? Is there something that works better?

[iain]

The stiffness is nice when you want to reach high and slot a hex like a nut (mainly the smaller ones). The stiffness also makes it more likely to be disturbed by rope drag. I have used it and it works fine, but I don't have much experience using other stuff (the cord is expensive).

[carolyn]

This post has a bit more meaning to me now that Ive been acquiring and using my own gear, along with comparing it to others. It seems like Ive run into a number of times where I would have prefered a slung hex vs my wired ones (mainly in setting up anchors -would that be accurate?).

 

I asked around at the store today, but no one was sure who made them these days. I checked wild country's site and did a yahoo search and cant seem to find anyone who makes them.

 

Cavey, if you have the link, could you post it? If anyone is interested in selling an 8, 9, 0r 10 slung hex, let me know. I would probably be interested. I think ANything smaller than that I can get away with wired or use a tricam for now.

[fern]

can you get a wired one and cut the wire out and rethread? maybe need to enlarge the hole a little.

[Sphinx]

carolyn said:

This post has a bit more meaning to me now that Ive been acquiring and using my own gear, along with comparing it to others. It seems like Ive run into a number of times where I would have prefered a slung hex vs my wired ones (mainly in setting up anchors -would that be accurate?).

 

Where? I have never found a situation where I'd rather have a wired hex than a slung hex.

[JoshK]

Sphinx said:

carolyn said:

This post has a bit more meaning to me now that Ive been acquiring and using my own gear, along with comparing it to others. It seems like Ive run into a number of times where I would have prefered a slung hex vs my wired ones (mainly in setting up anchors -would that be accurate?).

 

Where? I have never found a situation where I'd rather have a wired hex than a slung hex.

 

 

I've found the "stifness" of the wire to be useful sometimes. You can jockey a hex in to a slot by holding the wire and guiding it in. They are heavier tho me thinks...

[carolyn]

Well, Minnesota, of course!

 

Im pretty inexperienced, so I might be wrong, but...

 

My understanding is you dont want unnecessary bending of the wire. If that is then case, then having it slung vs wired allows a bit more freedom in equalizing, correct?

 

I dont know, it makes sense in my mind and at the time of setting the anchor, preference over a slung hex was lingering in my mind.

 

Feel free to question and/or correct my logic. Im still pretty green!

[carolyn]

fern said:

can you get a wired one and cut the wire out and rethread? maybe need to enlarge the hole a little.

 

Yup, that seems possible. I think haireball mentioned that earlier in the thread. Just dont know if Im talented enough or trust myself enough to mess with it

[snoboy]

carolyn said:

I asked around at the store today, but no one was sure who made them these days. I checked wild country's site and did a yahoo search and cant seem to find anyone who makes them.

 

CAMP used to make BD knockoffs, that were slingable. I think they took fatter cord. The walls were a bit thicker, hence heavy. We had some in stock at the Valhalla store in Squamish last time I looked (last fall) I can look tommorow if any one really wants them.

[fern]

carolyn said:

Yup, that seems possible. I think haireball mentioned that earlier in the thread. Just dont know if Im talented enough or trust myself enough to mess with it

 

oh COME ON carolyn! borrow some wire cutters, borrow a drill, borrow a round file, borrow a vise and get CUTTING! If you are squicked by the results in the end I will buy you a replacement. You can do it! ... or at the very least you will never know that you can't do it until you f@#$ it up trying. It's a $10 investment in self affirmation

[lummox]

dont make much difference to me. kinda harder to cam a hex when its wired but i really only use the fuckers in keyhole kinda slots like a giant stopper. those curved ones are good.

[snoboy]

fern said:

carolyn said:

oh COME ON carolyn! borrow some wire cutters, borrow a drill, borrow a round file, borrow a vise and get CUTTING! If you are squicked by the results in the end I will buy you a replacement. You can do it! ... or at the very least you will never know that you can't do it until you f@#$ it up trying. It's a $10 investment in self affirmation

 

Down fern, down! Just 'coz you dad's machinist.

 

Seriously though carolyn, it's probably not that hard. Fern, I will split the cost of that hex with you. Go carolyn, go!

[gapertimmy]

Wild Country Slung Hexes

[catbirdseat]

The wireds rack a bit more neatly than the slung ones. I have several old Chouinard hexes that were originally slung with 7 mm perlon that I have replaced with 5.5 mm spectra. I like wire best in the small sizes and spectra better for the large sizes. The large sizes are such that you can get your hand in the crack and manipulate the piece directly. The greater flexibility is an asset in finding just the right orientation (especially if you are trying to use the major camming mode). It is also as it has been mentioned earlier an advantage in that the piece is less likely to move. You might not have to even add a draw or single to it at all, whereas I always add one to a wired hex.

[snoboy]

snoboy said:

CAMP used to make BD knockoffs, that were slingable. I think they took fatter cord. The walls were a bit thicker, hence heavy. We had some in stock at the Valhalla store in Squamish last time I looked (last fall) I can look tommorow if any one really wants them.

 

I looked. There are some in stock still. 1-11, exception of #9. Big fat holes. I bet the 11 would easily take 9mm cord.