RuMR Posted August 31, 2007 Posted August 31, 2007 I was told there was a bolt right in the area where this fellow is climbing. Tell me it ain't true! awesome pic, btw... Quote
pazzo Posted August 31, 2007 Posted August 31, 2007 how is the planet after the first pitch? that is all we did...it was ok...certainly not 3 or 4 stars though... I honestly thought that little 12a crack to the left of the planet was a better pitch...but whatever... i've reconsidered, and i think they're equal now. ok fine, maybe Freeway's better, but only cause it's longer and more consistent. i like the DP so much cause it's so steep. Freeway's quite slabby, w/ two steep pitches (the two roof pitches). at the top of the first pitch of DP is a hanging belay. after that is a .10b pitch which starts up a chimney, then moves into a crack/ corner system then moves right at the top to the belay. the hanging belay on top of the first pitch should be avoided, and linked w/ the second pitch for full value. the third pitch in an amazing undercling which goes at .11a. the next pitch is the crux. it's .12b face climbing which is i found very reachy. heres a pic i took of a chick i climb w/ on DP back in '04. she's on the start p2, in the chimney just off the belay. Quote
RuMR Posted August 31, 2007 Posted August 31, 2007 sweet...i'll have to check that line out sometime soon... Quote
David Trippett Posted September 4, 2007 Author Posted September 4, 2007 the bolt on the Sword above the crux is part of a belay...apparently from genius loci or something like that as it crosses the sword into the underfling/free-grand....the fact that people on the Grand can clip it is a freebie...it is completely unnecessary as protection on the Sword If it didn't serve some purpose the self proclaimed "Squamish experience enhancement unit" would have had it off long ago..... Quote
matt_m Posted September 4, 2007 Posted September 4, 2007 Man - now I am all confused. When I did the Sword pitch in Summer of '05 here's how I remember it. Leave the belay (Bolts) on top of the Split Pillar and climb a right facing corner with wide gear (old #4 camalot). As you get higher the corner leans back and the gear gets thin - small nuts. The Crux on the pitch is pulling over this overhang onto the ramp that leads up to another right-facing corner. Here, corner pinches down to nothing but seam for gear and there is a single bolt there. This protects the moves LEFT out onto the face. Once on the face you laugh as you work higher on 5.8 jugs (You can sling the top spike of granite). The jugs run out and you are forced to move right back into the right facing corner. Here is where you lean around for a blind gear placement (.5 camalot or red TCU IIRC) Then you cast off on the lieback pictured You can see the clipped bolt far below. Then you keep going until the corner makes a dramatic turn right ( Here, you reach out left and grab the chains on the face where you start the bolt ladder upwards. See the full blow by blow here: Matt Buckle's page Quote
David Trippett Posted September 4, 2007 Author Posted September 4, 2007 I'm not sure why this is so difficult to understand.....there is another pitch/route, (it ends with a step accross from either the Grinning Weasel or To the Hilt, I can't remember which) that crosses the Sword and ends right at that bolt. The bolt is part of the belay to the Underfling, it was not "meant" as a protection bolt for the Sword, although that is it's de-facto use....any questions? Quote
G-spotter Posted September 4, 2007 Posted September 4, 2007 History: from the bolt belay to the Underfling arch end hanging belay was the line of the Underfling FFA by Dave Lane, at 12c. Peter Croft started lower at the Sword belay and linked in the extra moves, at 12d. Since then Cosgrove added two face moves off the arch end to a new belay at a no hands rest.. 12d/13a. Quote
pazzo Posted September 5, 2007 Posted September 5, 2007 i've heard good things about the Underfling. To the Hilt looks good too, but that last 12 feet from the horns on the Sword to the belay, would be enough to make it quite pumpy Quote
bstach Posted September 5, 2007 Posted September 5, 2007 Grand Wall pics so hot right now! Also, self portraits taken on lead...thump, thump, thump!! Quote
olyclimber Posted September 5, 2007 Posted September 5, 2007 Grand Wall pics so hot right now! Also, self portraits taken on lead...thump, thump, thump!! Wow...I thought that was a picture of my brother who lives up in Wrangell, AK. You look just like him! Quote
matt_m Posted September 6, 2007 Posted September 6, 2007 Dru needs to write a squam history book. Like Camp 4 but with Dru wit. Roper... not so funny. I'd buy it. Quote
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