warbonnetguy Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 i will be on vacation in oregon with my fiancee and her family for a couple weeks, and would like to try and sneek in a bit of climbing if there is any nearby. we will be in hood river for a couple days, and then we will be in manzanita for a week or so. we will probably take day trips up and down the coast. bouldering on the beach would be perfect, i could just bring my shoes and chalkbag, but i might bring a rope if there is anything good nearby. thanks...Banndon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 (edited) Revised: though you were looking for a partner and I was wrong. Dohhh. Edited August 8, 2007 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Read this and you will understand Bill's response to your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Hi, I climbed your namesake peak once. It had a fantastic knife edge layback at the top, with no pro for a good ways. It was a direct variation of an old, classic route which moves left out onto the face instead of doing the layback. Do you know the route I'm describing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 why would you ever want to go to warbonnet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 warbonnet in The Winds is pretty cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warbonnetguy Posted August 8, 2007 Author Share Posted August 8, 2007 the warbonnet of my namesake is in the idaho sawtooths, and it actually looks like a spanish battle helmet. the only other one i know of is in the winds, haven't made it there yet, but the cirque looks awesome. gee i sure hope somebody gives me some beta, i'm packing tonite and leaving in the morning, and i don't know what to take. if i don't hear anything i'll probably just take my shoes and hope for the best. not looking to hook up with anyone. i'm not taking my rack. i would take a rope and some draws if there is something good around there though. probably won't get to climb very much anyways unless there is something real close to manzanita, but i know i could convince my fiancee to be my belay slave for at least a day or two. and if there are boulders somewhere i could just go by myself. like i said before, i will be on vacation with my fiancee's family. someone please have pity on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 It's probably too late now, but you need to share more info on what you have done in the past in order for somebody here to have a clue on what to recommend for you to try this time. Have fun on the beach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicoli11 Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Manzanita is cool. There is some crumbly stuff at the south end of short sands but your better off renting a surfboard and floating around with a bunch of gumbys there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Indeed, everytime I go down to Cannon Beach (inlaws have a place there)we usually sneak down there too. The rock all around there is crap though I suppose you could find something to boulder on on the beach or go on that hike up the hill just north of there. Best spend your time looking for that fabled lost treasure near there or rent a surfboard and suit and go up to short sands. The little store there stocks Terminal Gravity IPA, if you're into that sort of thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warbonnetguy Posted August 8, 2007 Author Share Posted August 8, 2007 thanks guys, i'll probably check again in the morning. don't see why it matters how hard i climb. if i was worried about getting sent to an area and not being able to do any of the climbs, i would say i only climb 5.8 or whatever. but here's my stats: i'm climbing off the couch here, but i've done V8 (sandstone), 5.12 crack (granite) and 13a sport (steep sandstone), multi-pitch 5.11. i'm not as strong at slab climbing or wide cracks. i've also enjoyed climbing on limestone and basalt. and my favorite cam is the yellow tcu, and my new favorite shoes are the sportiva barracudas. anything near hood river? will be there for a few days. what about up or down the coast from manzanita? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 (edited) near hood river will be your best bet. check out Beacon Rock in the gorge - about 30 minutes towards portland from HR. it has plenty of long sustained trad pitches (no sport) in the 5.9-5.11 range; single and multipitch. Or, head south towards Bend for 30(?) minutes or so to Bulo point (mostly 5.7-5.10 sport) & some other areas. Or go all the way around to the west side of Mount Hood to French's Dome (small selection of good sport climbs, 5.8-5.12), which'll probably be ~1.5 hours. You can get detailed directions to most of these places online - mountainproject.com or rockclimbing.com probably. none of these places are really bouldering destinations, so bring your harness & you can probably meet people out there (especially @ beacon on a weekend) to climb with. as for Manzanita, I don't know of anything specific there...the best you'll get is probably some chossy beach-side bouldering. there are plenty of small sea cliffs & rock outcroppings on the oregon coast, but not much of it is solid or clean rock. But, if you just want up or down the beach far enough you'll probably find something to play on. but, i'm guessing it won't be worth it. Edited August 8, 2007 by hemp22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Yup, Jeff's got the beta. I've not been to Rat Cave which wouldn't be too far, has 100 percent bolted climbs at 5.12 and up. Anyone want to give up the beta on that? For long cracks, Beacon is the place, and hooking up at the last min. with someone wandering the base isn't usually too difficult on a weekend. Mountainproject may have the directions to Rat Cave, as well as some boulders in stevenson. Ujhan has a beach place near Netarts, and boulders down there at a couple of places (he sends me pictures) but he doesn't post online and I'm not sure where. Might just take gear and check out whatever is closeby. Coastal boulder ramblings Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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