Dru Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 After years of wearing size 9 or 8.5 rockshoes on my size 10-10.5 feet I decided to buy a pair of size 10 rockshoes for alpine climbing and long routes. I was wearing some old multi-resoled Aces that had stretched to about 9.5 but thought what the hell (there were multiple holes in the rand) might as well get some new'uns instead of resoling. I got Scarpa Infernos and am gonna try them out. They fit pretty tight for such big shoes but have a just-touching-the-end fit on the toes whereas with my slippers, the toes are slightly bent. I plan to wear socks in them sometimes too. we will see how well it works. any ideas from others who have done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 Socks? Isn't that going a bit too far down Horsecock Road? Never understood the old school sock thing, someone enlighten me. I've climbed when its minus 10C without socks and been fine (mind you, circulation does seem to cut off sooner, hmm). If it's that cold, you're probably gonna have ice on the route and you should just climb the thing in boots. I wear slippers for everything; yes pain, but sensitivity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 I wear slippers on everything too. I have friends that climb 5.10+ dirt with sox on. I guess it is just a matter of choice.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 Â Â [ 06-28-2002, 03:53 PM: Message edited by: jkrueger ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 barefoot guy RULES!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 I like that story in the latest issue of Gradefest Magazine where Timmy O'Neill et. al were climbing some mammoth limestone piece of choss in the Venezuelan jungle and they had to climb barefoot cos the rock was so green and snotty. That's style, hangin like monkeys off rock in the jungle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 I think you'll be ok as long as your shoes don't stretch that much. I have several pairs of shoes for different occasions but my overall shoes are the good ol Moccasym. They are snug but don't curl my toes over so I can get em in cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted June 26, 2002 Share Posted June 26, 2002 Dru - I have a closet full of old rock shoes of various sizes, in various states of resole. Actually, I spent a couple of weeks last fall gluing stealth c4 on everything that didn't already have it. My current favorite for summer alpine climbing is an ancient pair of Asolo Diamonds (originally marketed as a wall shoe), which I have resoled in c4. Before gluing the rubber on, I drilled holes in it to create a tread pattern, for better performance on snow & dirt. These shoes accept socks, work with strap-on crampons (marginal), and will tolerate approaches if the pack's not too heavy. I also have an "oversized" pair of Merrel Edge shoes that I have used on walls. (I even modified these to function as in innerboot under plastic shells for a South American trip, once; it wasn't worth the effort) Although I climb to a slightly higher standard in the Merrels, I prefer the Asolos for alpine climbs because they save me having to carry an extra pair of shoes for the approach/descent. Neither shoe offers the sensitivity or precision I like for cragging/sport, which is fine with me - I don't push my standard so hard on big/remote climbs. For those with a "do-it-yourself" inventive streak, I suggest taking an old pair of favorite too-stretched-out rock shoes and resurrecting them by gluing on a heel of the thicker (1/4") c4, then a half-sole toe, with a tread pattern cut into it before gluing it on. Add a Dr.Sholls or similar heel insert to make walking a bit more tolerable, and PRESTO, the ultimate summer alpine shoe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted June 26, 2002 Share Posted June 26, 2002 nice tip hairball! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 27, 2002 Share Posted June 27, 2002 Dru; Â I have been wearing my Scarpa Infernos for a season and a half and have noticed some stretch. Not much, but enough that they feel a touch more comfortable now than they did when I bought them. My $.02 (or .0302CAN) Â Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 27, 2002 Author Share Posted June 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Dru; Â I have been wearing my Scarpa Infernos for a season and a half and have noticed some stretch. Not much, but enough that they feel a touch more comfortable now than they did when I bought them. My $.02 (or .0302CAN) Â Greg The way I see it is if you fit them loose to begin with they will never stretch...its only when they are tight to begin with that they stretch, I dunno if this is actually true or not but it makes some kind of sense... Your $0.02 is now worth only $0.0299 Canadian as the CDN $ continues to rise against the weakening US $... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 27, 2002 Share Posted June 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Greg W: Dru; Â I have been wearing my Scarpa Infernos for a season and a half and have noticed some stretch. Not much, but enough that they feel a touch more comfortable now than they did when I bought them. My $.02 (or .0302CAN) Â Greg The way I see it is if you fit them loose to begin with they will never stretch...its only when they are tight to begin with that they stretch, I dunno if this is actually true or not but it makes some kind of sense... Your $0.02 is now worth only $0.0299 Canadian as the CDN $ continues to rise against the weakening US $... You might be onto something there. Well, I'll have to put off my shopping trip to MEC until your dollar starts it's spiral downward again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 27, 2002 Author Share Posted June 27, 2002 Good you mean MEC might actually be in stock on the items for which Im looking for once? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 27, 2002 Share Posted June 27, 2002 Dru- Is MEC still carrying the Inferno? My latest catalog (Spring) didn't have them listed. I realize not everthing in the store is in the catalog, but have seen them before. I'm thinking about getting a second pair and don't know a good source down here. Â Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 27, 2002 Author Share Posted June 27, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Dru- Is MEC still carrying the Inferno? My latest catalog (Spring) didn't have them listed. I realize not everthing in the store is in the catalog, but have seen them before. I'm thinking about getting a second pair and don't know a good source down here. Â Greg MEC vancouver has them, dont know for how long... i noticed they arent in the catalogue maybe they are just selling off what they have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 27, 2002 Share Posted June 27, 2002 Word, thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dR Posted June 28, 2002 Share Posted June 28, 2002 DRU...I've got an old pair or Ballets that are sized a little smaller than you intend to...I must say, there are many climbs when I've been happy to slide my socked foot into them when the mercury drops while my partners are cursing w/ tight barefoot clad shoes...I'm talking lightweight thorlo trekking sox... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 28, 2002 Share Posted June 28, 2002 Ever buy a pair of shoes just a little too small to bear in the pursuit of performance? Ever do it twice? *sigh* Gotta get around to selling those little-used poor investments one of these days. Â For alpine jaunts I have an old pair of first generation Fires, the ones with metal eyelets all the way down to the toe. They've been resoled 4 or 5 times, and the construction is very unsophisticated compared to modern shoes, but I can wear them comfortably all day (with a sock). Performance is perfectly adequate, they were the first shoe I ever climbed 5.11 in, and they appeal to my frugal Norweigan genetic heritage because I traded some local fungus for them in Joshua Tree about 18 years ago. Â Haireball's Asolo scheme sounds pretty awesome though, I'd love to dispense with carrying other shoes on some climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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