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Posted

i'd recommend not getting that petzl zephyr as your first rope. I haven't used one, but there are stories on the web about the sheaths on them fraying/fuzzing quickly.

Also, for a first rope, you can do a lot better than $179 for a 60M rope. The REI deal Bill posted above would be a great first rope, if it's still available.

 

 

check out www.spadout.com for other single rope deals @ online stores - for example, you can get a 10.2mm x 60M beal edlinger for $120, or a 10.3mm x 60M Edelweiss Axis for $130.

http://www.spadout.com/store.php?cat_id=467&cat_view=1&st_sort=pricelh

 

Posted (edited)

Does anyone own one of these?

 

Just wondering about the 5 fall rating. Not sure how that translates to actual climbing but if the rating means anything, you think this would not be good. But, the price is right, even without the 20% discount I missed.

 

By the way, I like my Petzl Fuse. It's obvioulsy not a workhorse and it clearly says on the gri that it won't fit but otherwise mine's good for what it does, easy routes-no falls or trs and def no jugging.

 

Zephyr for example has 10 fall rating. It's less expensive here http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Petzl-Zephyr-Climbing-Rope/PTZ0189M.html?avad=1768_c39594d

 

Edited by geoff
Posted

Fu*k Petzl. I'm boycotting their ropes for the reasons which Jeff points out above (Hemp22)

 

Do a search. Read this link to start.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1785716;page=1;mh=-1;;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC

 

DSCN1111.jpg

This one was used for "five top rope climbs". Some of the folks are saying they had it look like that in a week or 2.

If it was just a single instance, OK. But it was many many people who had their Zephrys fall apart and Petzl just ignored them all. I'd stick with someone who takes care of their customers well like New England Ropes, Mammut, etc: screw Petzl.

 

 

Posted

http://gearx.com/beal-edlinger-10-2mm-60m-std-rope.html

 

$119.99

 

"Beal Edlinger 10.2mm 60M Std Rope

Representing the perfect balance between durability and low weight, the Edlinger is sure to give you wings on your next project. With a 10.2 mm diameter, this cord travels smoothly over rock and through carabiners, providing a lightweight, easy-to-clip connection to the stone. So, if you're looking for a rope that's not too thin, yet not too heavy… the Edlinger is your ticket. Specs: Diameter: 10.2 mm Treatment: Standard Fall Rating: 8 Impact Force: 8 kN Weight: 65 g/m"

Posted
Just picked up a 70M Petzl Fuse 9.4mm dry rope from REI's super clearance for 95 bucks, no idea if there are any more left by now.

 

There is more, sigh, make me out to be a hypocrite, turns out I have a price and it's $94 bucks. A 70 meter 9.4 rope though! I ordered one...sigh....Damn thats a deal there.

Posted (edited)

Most of the complaints and horror stories I have seen/heard have been with the Zephyr. I have friends with the Nomad and Fuse and have never heard anything bad about them.

 

Plus, it's REI so it can be returned back at the first sign of abnormal wear if need be. I plan to use this rope on ice this winter.

Edited by Julian
Posted

The "disintegrating rope" was a Petzl Zephyr 10.3mm (I have a friend who owns one and has had no problems, even putting it through lots of abuse).

 

As for REI, you can return anything. If you return climbing equipment, they are forced to destroy it.

Posted

I returned a pair of climbing shoes there. It was my bad technique and not the shoes. So I was smart and took it straight to the returns window and not the rock climbing equipment area. If anyone that climbed had seen the damage I had done to the shoe they would have laughed me out of the store. I had been climbing at Vedauwoo, Wy. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wyoming/vedauwoo/nautilus/105757027

I was on Ted's Trot and was facing the wrong way. I needed to jam my hand in overhead and then stem out with my left foot and smear a large crystal. To get fully turned around I cranked on the crystal in a turning motion and fully corkscrewed a hole all the way through the bottom of the shoe to the leather. Wish I had a picture. R.E.I. replaced the shoes. Love those guys.

Posted

I bought mine when they first came out used it for craging for a while and am letting it works its way to the bottom of the gear bin. For me, its been okay durability wise but handling is a bit reminiscent of a contractor grade extension cord. Not unmanageable, but usually leaves me wishing I had brought my monster 9.8 70 (that is a sweet rope bought off this thread for not that much more).

 

If it wasn't so thin it would be retired to fixing/cleaning duty by now...I really only use it on alpine stuff any more and each trip swear i won't use it again.

 

I do see hard people at index using what looks like this rope...the ugly teal color is somewhat unique... usually with a gri gri and ascender to top rope belay. You can definitely make it work but i'm not sure its worth it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

that 9.4 rope is nice, a climbing partner of mine has one, and he's climbed a lot on it. it still looks new, no fraying, and it's really nice to lead on. Clips are easy, it doesn't weigh much. that's lucky getting it for 95.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
....For me, its been okay durability wise but handling is a bit reminiscent of a contractor grade extension cord.....

LOL! I still have that Petzl in the bag.

_____________________________________________________________________

 

OK, bros, you've been watching the dollar slide and oil go up. Know what that means? It means that we are fu*ked vis a vis rope prices. The many Euro ropes will go up due to the dollar value and the core material is petrochemical.

 

Yet today, our fellow bros are coming through with what may in fact be the LAST spectacular deal. The wonderful folks at Climb Max have this one.

 

http://www.climbmaxmountaineering.com/edelweissally103x60standard-1.aspx

 

So you dudes with old "Contractor grade extension cord" lines get on it, support the local good guys and get yourself a new cragging rope in the process. Edelweiss makes good stuff and they've been making it a long time. This is dirt cheap and most likely not a price you'll see again so unless you just got layed off and have to support your pregnant wife and 5 kids, no excuses. Get one. You get the $99.95 price at the checkout, although it makes you select the $139.95 rope first.

 

You listening Ivan and Timmy?

 

 

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