[TR] Mt Stuart - Cascadian 6/23/2007

[dinomyte]

Trip: Mt Stuart - Cascadian

 

Date: 6/23/2007

 

Trip Report:

Since my climbing buddy Kevin decided that vacation in Greece was more important than sticking around here, I needed to find something to climb by myself. Stuart fit the bill.

 

I drove up to Esmeralda Friday night, and got there about 7pm. There were about 8 cars at the TH, and that numer doubled over the next couple of hours. It was sprinkling lightly.

 

I had a beer and bite to eat and settled in for the evening, with the alarm set for 3am.

 

When it went off, I did my usual "lay there for 15 minutes wondering why I'm doing this" routine. But I got on my clothes and got ready. Other groups started stirring at 3:30am. I left about 10 minutes later.

 

The first stretch of trail up to Long's Pass went quickly, and I found myself looking at Stuart just before sunrise. Pretty.

 

 

It took me a few minutes to figure out that the trail dropped straight off the other side. I finally saw tracks down the snowfield. I hopped on it, but at that time of morning it was pretty firm and it was kinda steep. A slip would have been unpleasant, so I strapped on the pons and headed down. I couldn't find the trail on the other side, but I knew where to go. I actually hit the trail right at the Ingalls Creek crossing, and then I headed down the trail to the meadow marking the bottom of the Col.

 

I started up the trail (what trail there was) following the cairns. At about 8500 feet, I turned around and had a great view of Rainier.

 

 

I had heard my Blackberry buzz, letting me know I had email, so I gave a quick call to my wife to check in.

 

I saw a couple of guys heading up below me. They had come up a slightly different way. I believe Beckey calls it Var. 1, though when I chatted with them later they disagreed. I was going to wait for them, but they seemed to be moving pretty slowly, so I headed up alone.

 

I got to the snowfield at the top of the Col, and strapped on the pons again. This little stretch was pretty steep. It went straight up then traversed over to the ridge below the false summit. Once I got there, I stopped to take off the pons and take a shot of the summit.

 

 

Consulting Beckey and Smoot, I dropped down, crawled under the rock bridge and scrambled up to the summit. I spent a good 45 minutes there, taking photos in every direction (since I had never been), signing the register (it needs a new pen), relaxing, and waiting for MountaingirlBC to make her way up the west ridge (you never showed!). And I took my standard summit pic.

 

 

I finally bailed off at about 11:15am. I chatted with the two guys on the ridge below the false summit. Then, hoping to avoid the pons, I downclimbed as much rock as possible. It took about twice as long, and I almost got myself in trouble a couple times, but I limited the snow to a single 20-foot traverse. It would have been much quicker and easier to put on the pons!

 

The highlight of the trip for me occurred at about 7500 feet. I had just passed some huge boulders, and I turned around, and there was "Rocky."

 

 

Us Oregonians don't get to see them that often, so it was cool. He came right up to check me out and bum some Pringles off me.

 

Anyway, after chatting with him a bit, I headed on down to the creek. After the knee-busting descent, it felt good to be on level ground. Not so good to climb back up to Long's. However, this time I was able to follow the trail. I climbed back up the snowfield, which had softened well since the morning.

 

Then I practically jogged down the hill to the TH, where an ice cold Ruination IPA was awaiting me! Tasty!

 

All in all, this was fun and educational. I learned a few things from my time in Washington, some of which I thought would share:

 

- In Washington, one must exit the vehicle and pump one's own gas, which costs more than in Oregon.

- People look funny wearing cowboy hats and bluetooth headsets.

- Esmeralda is just slightly less popular than Cold Springs. The TH was packed when I got back.

- Teanaway is pronounced "Tee - ANNA - way."

- Toppenish smells funny.

- In Washington, people pay more money than the product they are buying actually costs (evidently called a sales tax) apparently thinking that their children's education is actually important.

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons and Ice Axe (needed)

Helmet (Didn't use it. No one was above me.)

 

Approach Notes:

Long

[Alex]

You don't get out of Oregon much if you are surprised about the pumping gas or sales tax thingys.

[spotly]

Nice job. Your alarm woke up my partner who thought it was my alarm, which was set for 4:15. He made coffee, ate breakfast then wondered why the rest of us were still sleeping. Funny. I've only been to that TH 3 times but THAT was busy - cars lined up way down the road. Sounds like you had more company on Stuart than we did on Ingalls.

[Kevin_Matlock]

Jonboy... awesome! Way to getterdone!!!

 

Sorry I was lazing in the Grecian sun (just got back today, been awake for the past 50 hours, will tell you all about it on Wed when I return to the office).

 

Since the younger kid lives up that way, I can show you the "secret" way to avoid that hell-hole known as Toppenish.

 

Alex and the rest of WA are retards for their ghey sales tax... I never know how much something is going cost me without having to whip out the calculator.

And I especially wouldn't want to be troubled to pump my own gas... I might chip a nail or something. ::

 

Good job on staying productive in the hills.

[MtnBoy]

Nice report,

 

Looked like a wonderful trip.

 

What did you think about the conditions for the west ridge?

 

I am thinking about heading up on Wed.

 

Thanks

[Bug]

Look at his first photo. It would be a cruise if the snow is firm. Have to leave the trailhead before 3:30.

But even if it isn't firm, there are endless variations up there that would keep you off the snow.

 

[olyclimber]

The tax man gets you one way or another, and WTF with the gas pumping in Oregon? Doesn't your state trust you to run a gas pump? It is a something only New Jersey and Oregon share. At least you can alway find job as a gas jockey.

 

Looks like nice time out, though I would also like a TR from Kevin regarding his 50 hour bender.

[Fairweather]

Nice TR. Your comments about "laying there 15 minutes past the 3:30 alarm wondering why" are a page right out of my life - and as I get older the answer only gets more difficult to find. I believe the total net gain (including the hump back over Long's Pass) on this trip is 8000 feet! That's almost a one-day Rainier climb. I really like the trend toward one day ascents...lighter packs, less time away from family, personal physical challenge, and less impact on the backcountry. Thanks for the report.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Nice TR. Your comments about "laying there 15 minutes past the 3:30 alarm wondering why" are a page right out of my life - and as I get older the answer only gets more difficult to find.

 

LOL. Me too.

 

I really like the trend toward one day ascents...lighter packs, less time away from family, personal physical challenge, and less impact on the backcountry. Thanks for the report.

 

+1

 

[hefeweizen]

I've been told that the reason our gas is more expensive is because we have one of the highest gas taxes around. It's actually nice to be able to pump your own gas (I used to live in OR) because at 2am when you're heading out for that alpine start you can get gas just about anywhere.

 

Oh, and sales tax: at least we don't pay income tax in WA.

[plexus]

"laying there 15 minutes past the 3:30 alarm wondering why" are a page right out of my life - and as I get older the answer only gets more difficult to find.

 

Always remember the giant carrot at the end. That's what I tell myself when the alarm is going off and it's still dark out.