dan_e Posted February 26, 2002 Posted February 26, 2002 I bought this jacket back in late November and I've had it out in about every type of winter condition this season. Here's what I found: Waterproofness: Average to Poor (yes, I know this jacket is not designed for full on rain, still with Cloudveil making this claim: "Cloudveil's classic "do-anything" 9 days out of 10 mountain jacket". I have to say "Yeah right!" Apparently they have not tested it in the PNW!) Breathability: Average (This was a tough call, mainly because it seems like the jacket breaths fairly well, but pit zips would still be a good idea. Also, it feels clamy to me even with a thin poly top on, something that I do not feel with gore-tex, it almost feels like it's absorbing the moisture more than venting it. Durability: Good (So far nothing has torn, no stitching problems, ect.) Overall, I still like the jacket, but IMO this jacket and Schoeller material has a limited use to very dry days and with light layers underneath. I will not use this jacket on an ice climb unless I can see that it's not dripping wet. I wore it in the Rockies one day and the first pitch looked bone dry so I though I was good, until 1/2 way up the second pitch when the climb turned really wet and there was not a dry line to be found! I could have been screwed, but luckily it was -17 C that day so the water just froze to the outside of the jacket and I turned into a giant popscicle! If it had been warmer, I would have been soaked and hypothermic in a matter of minutes. I wore this jacket more than I had intended, because my old gore-tex jacket I used for ice was trashed and my other one is way too bulky. I plan to try the Arc'Teryx Beta SL jacket next season. I tried one on this year and I was amazed at how well it fits and it's super light! Dan E. Quote
Dru Posted February 26, 2002 Posted February 26, 2002 Beta SL is not that durable in my experience... nice and light though, yup. ArcTeryx is making a new Scholler/Goretex hybrid but it wont be available until winter 2002, i got to see a prototype at VIMFF I think, for ice, the Powershield items like MEC Pamir or Arcteryx Gamma, are the way to go. Just not for full on pouring rain or shower bath ice. Actually even my goretex got wet through when i tried happy boy though.... so..... nothing works!!!! Might as well just use $5 coated nylon!! Quote
genepires Posted February 27, 2002 Posted February 27, 2002 Cloudviel is jeff lowe's products and when was the last time he came out our way? I am sure that his jacket rocks in the low humidity areas like colorado. I used the MEC Pamir bib (another powershield product) and I was never wet in either the rockies or cody. But then it didn't rain and the snow usually falls of the clothing instead of sticking to everything like out here. If there is a lesson to be learned, use those schoeler stuff for good days and gore for our typical days. Isn't ice climbing all about suffering? Quote
wdietsch Posted February 27, 2002 Posted February 27, 2002 Gene, are you maybe thinking about "Cloudwalker" by Jeff Lowe? Quote
nobody Posted February 27, 2002 Posted February 27, 2002 genepires: Check the Jeff Lowe connection to Cloudveil. The owners of Cloudveil a couple of young guys that live in Jackson. I met them in the Tetons a couple of years ago (though they both stated that there was another silent/money partner). Overall thier stuff is innovative and well constructed. But Scholler is Scholler and will perform the same regardless of manufacturer (of course there are somevaritaions by things like cut and features of a particular garmet.) As wdietsch said, Jeff Lowe's is called Cloudwalker. I haven't seen or heard much about his company. Quote
Ibex Posted February 27, 2002 Posted February 27, 2002 The only beef I have with Schoeller is the DWR. It needs significant/frequent "boosts" with Tectron or the like. I shouldnt say my only beef, try walking through a thorn-patch with your schoeller pants on, and you will get a bunch of threads pulled out of it. You might want to try Patagonis's softshell stuff made with "Tactel Inspira". It is not quite as soft, or stretchy, but it is MUCH more waterresistant and more durable too. I have been using the Patagonia Dimension Jacket this year, and it has worked really well for me. Cheers Shawn Quote
jordop Posted February 27, 2002 Posted February 27, 2002 Allright, Schoeller works best in cold climes where you are constantly moving. Any "water resistant/breathable" garment "works" better when you are moving and making heat. This is why stretch nylon mirofibre is great for ski touring/ mountaineering but in fact sucks for any activity where you are not creating enough heat or are continually stopping, i.e. vertical ice climbing or lift skiing. My experience has been that my Schoeller jacket (MEC Feratta) is bomb proof but not that water resistant, whereas my Dimension (prodeal ) is very resistant to elements but will actually "burn" under high abraision. Yes, skiing far too fast through the trees yielded lots of little brown permanent scrapes! That being said, I wear microfibre 90% of the time. (Gotta like that Arcteryx proto Packlite/Primaloft thing they had at the VIMFF!) [ 02-26-2002: Message edited by: jordop ] Quote
JayB Posted February 27, 2002 Posted February 27, 2002 I've had the Serendipity jacket for about 6 months or so and have had it out in all manner of winter conditions and here's my take on the jacket: Breathability: Beats the hell out of any hard-shell jacket that I've ever worn. Gore-tex is not even in the same league. Perfect for aerobic activities, alpine climbs, and long approaches. Fantastic for routes in RMNP. It's a bit stuffy when I'm really working hard, but it's vastly better than enduring the sweatbox inside a hard-shell. Durability: Good but it has its limits. It does tend to snag easily, but I've been able to fix it by cutting off the threads I've pulled and it's no worse for wear. I'd much rather deal with a snag than a tear. No problem with pilling on the top. The pants have pilled a bit but that's addressed easily enough with one of those lint-remover deals. Waterproofness: pretty good all things considered. It certainly won't keep the water off like a shell will, but that's not what it's designed for. The fabric's primary strength is its breathability and versatility. Early in the season I got on a climb and just got absolutely hosed by drippage - I had 1/2" of verglass on my helmet by the top - and I stayed dry. It was below freezing of course, but I was impressed. The Nikwax wash-in treatment seemed to help quite a bit. The bottom line: best all-purpose outerwear I've ever used, hands down. Having said that, I think that Dan is right when stating that the material is probably better suited to the Rockies(where I've been using it)than the Cascades. Something which sacrificies breathability for water-resistance, like the dimension fabric might be a bit better for that climate. However - I'm so much happier with this stuff than Goretex, especially for aerobic activities, that it'll have to be a straight-up downpour before I reach for the shell. I should also add that the fit is fantastic. I friggin hated not being able to see the gear I was trying to pull off of my rack because it was obscured by a bulge of fabric on my (old) coat. The stuff from Cloudveil has a much trimmer cut than that offered by most other companies which suits most climbers pretty well. As a consequence of this, you can look down and actually see all of the gear around your waist. Also, despite the trim fit can also raise your arms over your head and not pull the jacket out of your harness. This is due in part to the cut, and in part to the stretchy Schoeller fabric. [ 02-26-2002: Message edited by: JayB ] [ 02-26-2002: Message edited by: JayB ] Quote
Elvis Posted February 27, 2002 Posted February 27, 2002 I got the MEC Ferrata Jacket and pants and with the exception of pouring rain (which I avoid) they have performed beyond my expectations. (and the exchange rate helps) Quote
Silentpartner Posted February 27, 2002 Posted February 27, 2002 I've been using an Ibex Icefall jacket for the past eight months or so. I would have to say that most of the above pros/cons concernig shoeller fabric jackets also apply, but it is hands down the best outerwear garment I have ever owned. It is very similar to the Cloudveil, but with a nice thin wool lining. The comfortable temperature range is what surprised me most, but if it really gets nasty out there, I have to pull my lightest gore-tex on over it to stay dry. Just my 2 cents worth. Quote
dan_e Posted March 1, 2002 Author Posted March 1, 2002 I am glad you all seem to like it more than me, at least you are getting your moneys worth! Quote
freeclimb9 Posted March 1, 2002 Posted March 1, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dan e: I am glad you all seem to like it more than me, at least you are getting your moneys worth! I've got the MEC Ferrata jacket and tights, and they make a great first, or second layer, IMHO. But they don't make a great outer layer if much precipitation is falling, or if wallowing through and over frozen water (again, IMO). I think the fabric is well suited as an outer layer for summer alpine climbing and winter aerobic sports (if it's not snowing, or raining). Though, I carry a cagoule if there's a threat of summer rain. my 2 cents Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.