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Ibex

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Everything posted by Ibex

  1. Has anybody tried contacting Cilogear lately? I am trying to get some info on their packs but haven't been successful at getting in touch with them over email/phone. Thanks!
  2. For sale: Set of 4 Yakima Y-towers with clips and locks. Formerly mounted on a Ford Escort wagon, if I recall the clips are model Y-19. $25 via money order for the set, includes ground shipping anywhere in the lower 48. photo: http://sky.prohosting.com/sdhigbee/towers.jpg Yakima ski racks. These are the pre-cursor to the Powderhound, holds one set os skis or a single board. $17 via MO, includes ground shipping in lower 48. photo: http://sky.prohosting.com/sdhigbee/skiracks.jpg questions? sdhigbee at a place called hotmail dot com Cheers!
  3. Help in Finding Avy Shovel to Fit Ice Tool

    I have one of the shovels and the BD Alpamayo Axe that it fits on. It is a nifty concept, and when used with the axe it was designed for (the Alpamayo) the blade attaches amazingly securely to the shaft of the axe. Obviously its lightweight, etc... The downsides are: 1) You *seriously* have to be careful when shoveling that you don't stab yourself in the leg, or in your partners leg, while you vigorously dig with it. Carrying an axe-head guard mitigates this issue though. 2) For some reason they made this a "round-nosed" design, so when you hit a hard chunk of snow with the corner, it glances off instead of slicing through. 3) The blade is kindof smallish 4) The T- handle is actually the top of your mtn axe, which at a 1/4" wide isn't the comfiest handle on earth to use for driving into hard snow. All things considered, it is a reputable product when used with the right axe (I have tried it on a few othe axes over the years and did not get the same secure attachment), and if lower cost or "light and fast" are a priority it may be the ticket. If you were a serious skier or somebody who spent a lot of time in avy terrain, I would probably encourage you to pony up for a bigger, D- handled, square cornered design. Cheers!
  4. Wanted- Ice tools

    I have a pair of BD Black Prophets for sale. $185 with leashes. Check out my post in the yard sale. Shawn
  5. For Sale: BD Bent Shaft Black Prophets $185 for the pair, with leashes, buyer pays for shipping/insurance, MO only. These were my first ice tools and have been trusted companions and are in fantastic shape. They will provide many, many more years of reliable service. My wife has indicated that I am free to get a pair of Cobras, but I have to sell my old tools first... These are bent shaft, two hammers, one adze, one BD Android leash, one Grivel lockdown leash, both picks were just replaced and have only seen ice once. Send me an email at sdhigbee2 at a place called hotmail dot com Cheers Shawn
  6. For Sale: Scarpa Lasers, bought brand new 2 years ago, used only 2x at local ski hill back in college. They are virtually brand new, are still shiny, liners are not compacted at all, no sole wear, just a few very cosmetic scuffs. The only potential "pet peeve" is that I was going to install one of those anti-heel lift foam U-shaped pads over my achilles, because these boots are actually a touch too big for me. Long story short, I duct taped them in so I could reposition them if needed, and never removed the tape. So the liners, although functionally are new, have some duct tape on the heel, and a complimentary heel lift preventer. (size 13 US, 30.3, 12 UK) $200 plus shipping. Let me know your address, I will get a quote from the PO on the shipping costs, you send a MO for $200 plus shipping and I'll send them off. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers! Shawn sdhigbee2 at a place called hotmail dhot com
  7. WTB:: Silvretta bindings

    If I remember correctly, they come in two sizes M and L. These are the larges, which fit roughly size 9-13. I think the medium's fit size 10 and below. As far as the leathers go, the answer is YES. These are one of the few bindings you can actually use with leather boots, unlike EZ-go's Diamirs, Naxo, etc... Send me an email if you are interested Shawn sdhigbee2 aht this place called hotmail doot com
  8. WTB:: Silvretta bindings

    I have a pair of 404's that I bought 3 years ago in college, and only skied on twice (lift serve), they are still basically brand new. They are mounted a set of Alpina Tele skis (190's I think), nothing special, but skiable. I would sell the bindings alone for $115 with skis for $135, shipping not included. I also have a "like new" pair of Scarpa Lasers (sz 12) that were used 2x as well. Would sell for $150. Let me know if you are interested. Shawn
  9. gear wanted and gear for sale

    check your PM's
  10. Hey folks, I posted this in the "Cordelete Retirement" a few days ago, but I thought it was important enough to give it its own thread. If you use spectra, or any of the high strenght techy 5.5mm cords for cordelete, you NEED to read this. Give a read to: http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/High_Strength_Cord.pdf Pay special attention to: 1) Fatigue life tests 2) Drop tests Kudos to Moyer et al. who put this paper together. [ 12-11-2001: Message edited by: Ibex ]
  11. Adirondacks

    The 'daks are nice, but there is a lot of great stuff to be done just east of there in NH. Try: Whitney-Gilman- 5.7 ish 4 long or 6-7 short pitches up a nice knife edge arete (its on Cannon Cliff). Great exposure, fractured granite but this one is the cleanest routes on Cannon. Pinacle Buttress- 5.7ish and about 5 pitches. Nice wandering alpine route up a buttress in Huntington Ravine on Mt Washington. Then behind each of these rock routes are NICE ice climbs. Behind Whitney-G is the Black Dike (a venerable WI4) and Pinnacle Gulley a sweet moderate WI3. Just food for thought. A google search will yield plenty of beta, these are all well traveled routes. Ibex
  12. The Mountaineers?

    Alright... curiosity is killing me. What is the Mounties "fraternization policy" Cheers
  13. I have to highly recommend Forrest Safety Products as a place to get your cams reslung. The do a great job with spectra webbing, have lots of colors,good prices, quick turnaround, and can do custom work. I had my Metolious cams reslung with a custom length extendable spectra slings and they turned out great. Highly recommended. A regular looped sling (like BD Camalots or WC Friends) costs $4 and an extendable doubled sling (like DMM) is only $5. Ask for Dennis. Forrest Safety Products 248 Bodo Dr. Durango, CO 81303 Telephone: 970.247.1776 dls_44@hotmail.com Cheers
  14. He did the work in about 2-3 days. I am sure you could have them faster if you called and talked to him. FWIW, I think he is out of town for the next week, so I would wait until the beginning of Oct to try him.
  15. Cord Cutting/Melting?

    A pretty good way to do it is to use a cig. lighter held about 1-2 inches away from the point where you want to cut the cord. Rotate the cord so the heat from the flame uniformly melts/glazes the sheath. You want to apply only enough heat to hold the sheath together after you cut it, so dont burn through the sheath or char the whole thing black. Once you have melted about 3/4" of the cord (completely around its circumfrence) slice it in the center of the melted bit with a SHARP knife against a piece of wood (for anything over 9mm) or with a sharp pair of scissors for anything smaller. Then use your lighter to fuse the "butt" end together, and to fuse it to the already melted sheath. Wet your fingers and quickly/lightly shape the semi-molten ball of nylon into a smooth slightly rounded tip. The finished product should have a melted sheath for the last 1/2-3/4", well fused to the melted core. For those lamenting the cutting of Spectra/Kevlar cord, use the same process as above except: -use coxial cable cutters to cut the cord after melting the sheath -once the cord is parted, gently work the (cooled) glazed sheath back to expose about 1/2" of the core. Use the above cutters (or a razor knife) to trim off 3/8" of the core -work the (now) extra-long sheath back over the shortened core, making sure to eliminate as much slack as possible from the sheath. Then fuse the sheath into a smooth, bullet-shaped point that is easy to thread through a hex. Cheers Shawn
  16. FS: MARMOT Belay Parka

    Do you offer a satisfaction garuantee...? What if the color doesnt match my eyes? Are you back in ames now? what are you up to? sdhigbee2 at hotmail dot com Cheers Shawn
  17. These are US 11 5.10 Hueco's, the original purple ones. They are great all around shoes, and really comfortable for all day climbs. They are in awesome shape, original sole/rands with over 70% of the sole life still remaining. They dont even stink... I just have too many pairs of shoes, so these have to go. Money order only, price includes ground shipping in the lower 48. $60 Cheers Shawn sdhigbee2 at hotmail dot com
  18. Standard Rack

    Actually I would argue to the contrary... I like to keep the bottom 4-5 tricams on one biner. Imagine yourself pulling up to a roof with an irregular crack running out towards to lip. By grabbing one biner off of the rack you have a plethora of placement options/sizes that you can choose from, like a key chain. In contrast, imagine trying to do the same with 2-3 small-mid SLCD's. Depending on how you rack them, you reach for the first one, it doesnt fit, re-rack it, grab another, try it, it doesnt fit, re-rack it, reach for tricams...etc... For those of you who think that they are hard to place: Get ahold of one of the "midsize" blue ones. They are larger and a little bit heavier, ergo easier to practice with. Practice (with it in one hand) flicking the cam back over the webbing while holding the web about 2" from the head. IMHO they are NO harder to place than any other SLCD, you simply have to get familiar with them. To clean a stuck tricam, tri..errr, try alternately "pulling" on the point and "pushing" on the opposite end, with a nut tool; in order to rotate and "collapse" the cam. Also, leaders... dont weld the smaller ones in place to begin with. Cheers
  19. Ti biners?

    Alright kids, I should be studying right now, but seeing as this is 3x more interesting than my day job, I couldnt resist. I contend that cost is the main reason we dont have ti biners. Even with the "cheap" ti ice screws etc that we see these days they are frequently from our friends east of the Berlin wall and hence can produce some really cheap gear. This doesnt mean that it is well designed, uses appropriate (or even quality) materials, or is well constructed; it only means low cost. As far as some of the other issues batted around: -Hardness- this is completely alloy dependent. It really is not appropriate to just say "Ti" and "Al" and leave it at that. There are worlds of difference between CP Ti (commercially pure) and 6Al/4V Ti, just as there are worlds of difference between 7075 AL and 2024 Al. Then we have heat treatment, etc issues entering as well. If we want to compare 7075 T-6 Al (stuff ATC's are made of) with 6/4 Ti then alright we can have a meaningful discussion about their physical properties. I can assure you that the aluminum will win in terms of cost though... -Ti brittleness- If you cold work Ti (by bending it into a carabiner frame) and dont heat treat it to relieve the internal stresses you could potentially produce a very brittle product. Heat treatment, when done correctly can completely circumvent this problem (this adds cost though). Note: within limits, many Al alloys dont have very significant problems with this. That is why so many of our biners are "cold forged" (ie. formed at room temp). -Fatigue life- Ti generally has a much higher fatigue limit than either Al or steel. So if you take 3 identically sized/shaped bars of the above 3 materials, and you flex each of them a large number of cycles (with the same load)without actually deforming them ***generally** Al will fatigue (and break) first, followed by steel, then by Ti. It is an intricate concept to explain, but the fatigue life of ferrous materials (ie. steel) is based on a unique physical phenomenom that Al and Ti dont exhibit, so it really is difficult to make rational fatigue comparisons b/w ferrous/non-ferrous materials. Al vs. Ti is fair game though. -Hard to work- yeah, but if you want to pay enough money, we can easily get around this.... What "hard to work" really means is that the standard machining, casting, welding processes for steel/Al arent applicable to Ti, so if you want to use the exotic metal you have to go to some extra lengths to be able to manufacture something from it. (incurs more cost) A great example is welding Ti, it must be done in an inert gaseous (Argon) environment b/c if there is any Oxygen (or a spec of dirt) around when the metal is heated to 3000 C it will react with the Ti and produce a weak spot. Thus we CAN machine/weld/cast Ti, but be prepared to pay for it. Ummm...no. Biners are either cold worked/cold forged (which means shaped using a lot of force, at room temp) or are hot forged in order to produce more intricate shapes. From a cost to produce standpoint, and a strength/quality standpoint, we are better off bending them from straight bars of the parent metal as opposed to casting them, regardless of the material used. The bottom line is this---------------------------- For the low, low price of 5 dollars we can get a biner that is perfectly strong enough, fairly lightweight, and predictable in terms of its limitations. There simply is no reason to chase down a more expensive material just to make a Ti biner. If you are worried about strength, just make them with 20% larger parent metal stock, and you will get a biner that is 20% stronger. It will still be cheaper than Ti. Happy Monday everyone....
  20. Colorado/Antarctica tech weenie job

    I had two good friends (husband and wife) do this for a couple years. She worked as a driver (delivering people and supplies) and he was a network administrator. This was back when Antartic Support Assoc. before Raytheon. YOu would be amazed at the huge variety of jobs down there: scientists, doctors, pipe fitters, carpenters, EMT's, pilots, divers, cooks, cleaners, cargo handlers, etc..... They both gave the experience very high marks. They likened it to working at a "summer camp" when you are down there. Cheers
  21. For Sale: Dana Designs ArcFlex Stillwater This pack is one of the originals made in Bozeman MT before the moved production offshore. I bought this pack new in 1997 (for $430) and have used is VERY little (less than 1 average season’s use), given the slight use I have given it, I decided that it is time to send it on to a new home. The only permanent additions/modifications I have made to it are sewing some reflective tape on the zipper pulls, and sewing 2 patches (Iowa State Mountaineers and US Flag) both of which are well seam gripped. You can see in the photos some bungie cord and more reflective stuff I threaded through the daisy chains. I am asking $250 obo payment via money order/cashiers check only. If you have any questions about the pack please email me at sdhigbee2@hotmail.com This pack features: -5000 cubic inches -Size Medium (see http://www.danadesign.com/packs/pack_fit.htm for sizing info) -Combination top/panel loading- Easy access to whatever is stuffed in the bottom of your pack. -Hypalon shovel pocket- a great place to stash your -Hypalon crampon patch -Detachable lid/fanny pack -1000D Cordura body -Dual carbon fiber stays with aluminum stay -HDPE framesheet -Thermo-moulded hipbelt -Retractable, differentially cut bottom To read more about the frame of this pack, and other features unique to Dana check out: http://www.danadesign.com/packs/arcflex/index.htm You can check out more pictures at: http://www.public.iastate.edu/~sdhigbee/IMAGE0008.JPG http://www.public.iastate.edu/~sdhigbee/IMAGE0010.JPG http://www.public.iastate.edu/~sdhigbee/IMAGE0011.JPG Cheers Shawn
  22. Pack questions

    www.mchalepacks.com Somebody had to say it. Read on my friend and welcome to the promise land of backpacks.... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB9&Number=69182&page=5&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
  23. Seeking fiberglass repair knowledge

    If it was a "one part glue" (didnt need mixing before use) it was probably something similar to Gorilla Glue. If memory serves, they are polyurethane based, and it is moisture in the air (or in the crack) that drives the reaction for it to cure, and the end result is waterproof and very durable. You can buy it at Home Depot or Lowes, etc Cheers Shawn _______________________________________
  24. Lowe Alpine Flash Jacket

    I used to have one of the older Lowe Flash Jackets (2 layer) and I knew a guy that got one of the newer 3 layer ones as soon as they came out. They are a solid jacket, and were pretty durable IMO. They certainly represent a good value, but they wont be as breathable, or as spiffily tailored. If cost is a concern though I would not hesitate to get one. They are roughly on par with the "housebrands" REI, EMS, MEC.. Cheers Shawn _____________________________________________
  25. Does anybody know about an Ice Fest in Orient Bay (Nipigon, Ontario) this year? Shawn
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