kevbone Posted June 9, 2007 Author Share Posted June 9, 2007 I have a ton of respect for folks who have done 5.9 A2 in the Canadian Rockies. Then again that's alpine climbing...which is something you know little about. Eh gym boy. Why would you think I have little alpine experience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 Well, I thought they called it 10b back when I did it maybe 25 years ago, but I wouldn't argue with 10c as a grade for the route either. The crux is the 15' boulder problem to get established in the crack, which is strenuous but solid, and substantially easier than the lower bit. I bet the pin in the bottom part is long gone? I've had a little history with that route. My friend Alan tried to free solo it, had a little meltdown in the chimney rest pod up towards the top and had to have a rope lowered to him. You can imagine that led to a little hilarity after he was safe on the ground. Last year a fellow I used to know committed suicide by taking a running header off the top of that crag, no one has found anything entertaining about that event. I don't think you'll find a lot of support out there in the world for calling it 11a, and even if it was that hard, onsighting at a grade first climbed over 40 years ago is not the stuff of legend. If it was your first lead at that grade, well hell, that's well done. It's a great route and highly recommended. To be on the safe side though, it's best to avoid referring to anything that's 5.10c as relentless or the ghost of crazypolishbob may rise up to smite thee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 I have a ton of respect for folks who have done 5.9 A2 in the Canadian Rockies. Then again that's alpine climbing...which is something you know little about. Eh gym boy. Why would you think I have little alpine experience? If you had experience you'd have some respect for a rating of 5.9 A2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Alpine experience doesn't necessarily have to include knowledge of the Canadian Rockies or being on the inside of that little joke, though without understanding the reference you'd never get the snicker buried inside Mike & Erik's rating of their Mox route at 5.9+ A2+. Kev, what Kurt's alluding to is that some of the most fearsome climbs in the Rockies have that grade, which bears no actual resemblance to what you might encounter on the route. Sort of like 5.9 was a scary scary rating back in the Joshua Tree day, you'd never know how hard the route actually was until you'd climbed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 I think we spend too much time explaining things to "Kevbone". To Kevbone: Dude...spend a little less time on the internet and a lot more time learning about climbing and the world in general. Thank you, - Raindawg, and numerous other sympathizers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 ...and the lad would be delivering this guy's lines when getting close to... daddy wants to fuck? pabst blue ribbon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 I have a ton of respect for folks who have done 5.9 A2 in the Canadian Rockies. Then again that's alpine climbing...which is something you know little about. Eh gym boy. Why would you think I have little alpine experience? If you had experience you'd have some respect for a rating of 5.9 A2. I suppose you knew this was coming......why would you think I have no repect for 5.9 A2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 I think we spend too much time explaining things to "Kevbone". To Kevbone: Dude...spend a little less time on the internet and a lot more time learning about climbing and the world in general. Thank you, - Raindawg, and numerous other sympathizers. Thanks raindog....I will! There is so much to learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 The crux is the 15' boulder problem to get established in the crack Super soft V1 to old school 5.9 thuggery. <3 that route! Kev, 5.9 used to be the upper limit of the grading scale, so 10c had to be burl to not get called 5.9. That's why today's gym faags think it's 11a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Super soft V1 to old school 5.9 thuggery. Thanks for providing the hip and wack modern translation, that's exactly what I meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 Kev, 5.9 used to be the upper limit of the grading scale, Holy shit.....your kidding right? 5.9 used to be the limit in the grading scale.....who knew? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Kev, 5.9 used to be the upper limit of the grading scale, Holy shit.....your kidding right? 5.9 used to be the limit in the grading scale.....who knew? you would be surprised how many people who of our generation (30 something) who do not know that. there are many people who climb who are not interested in the history of the sport and are ignorant of the history of the sport in the PNW. in the end a grade is an arbitrary number that gives you an idea of how difficult some other people thought the climb was. but it is just an idea. the real deal is to understand your own climbing style and strengths and weaknesses enough to keep yourself out of any major trouble. it also pays to learn about the rock, and the area you are climbing in. if i have never climbed say sandstone i take into consideration that there will be a learning curve there as i get accustomed to the new kind of rock. why in gods name am i even typing this? i think i just don't want to do the dishes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 why in gods name am i even typing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 were you trolling for muffy's??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 (edited) I am the best climber in my world! Allow me to pass you, or suffer the rapier wit that is mine~ Let me tell you a real climbing story, you will love it! Listen to my loud voice, my booming baritone beta! Helplessly watch as my dogs get into your stuff. Aren't they cute? "Who is that asshole?" your partner asks later, "I don't know, but he thinks he's the greatest* climber in the world" as you lose sight of him below. *Edit for unnessiary profanity Edited June 10, 2007 by lancegranite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Bumped into Kevbone yesterday as he was heading past us to crank an 11a (extreme off the couch cause he's got a lil one now) 10 min. before it started raining. (Larry Jennings also in pic with the helmet, I don't think he trusted me to not toss rocks onto his head:-) ) After getting down and huddling under an overhang for @ 20 min, we finally headed over to make sure they were OK. They'd finished that one and were toproping a harder one to the right and were still there as we scooted out to try and find some dry inside the car. Hola Kev! ps, I think Kev is doing that classic T.M. Herbert move where you flail with yer hands while vividly describing the next move on your last horror show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 Nice shot bill.....even though this person took it.... Best climber ever....Jim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Not the best photog though, as you know he took that one of you:-) ! The ones he took of me were hideous. I look fat, old and bald. I'm thinkin, Who the F* is that? Jim yesterday under cover. I gotta go get out of the house, later dudes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Holy shit.....your kidding right? 5.9 used to be the limit in the grading scale.....who knew? Generally people who think old school 10b's should be 11a don't know this. FYI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 hip and wack classic underrated offwidth technique. at least by flailers like me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 Holy shit.....your kidding right? 5.9 used to be the limit in the grading scale.....who knew? Generally people who think old school 10b's should be 11a don't know this. FYI. Realy....who it that?....Clean and Jerk is rated 10.c in the book....I led it so I have an opinion on the grade. I thought it was hard for 10.c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_like_sun Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 She is the best rock climber. She will kill you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 No she is the best climber.....she will climb on top of you.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Bumped into Kevbone yesterday as he was heading past us to crank an 11a (extreme off the couch cause he's got a lil one now) 10 min. before it started raining. (Larry Jennings also in pic with the helmet, I don't think he trusted me to not toss rocks onto his head:-) ) After getting down and huddling under an overhang for @ 20 min, we finally headed over to make sure they were OK. They'd finished that one and were toproping a harder one to the right and were still there as we scooted out to try and find some dry inside the car. Hola Kev! ps, I think Kev is doing that classic T.M. Herbert move where you flail with yer hands while vividly describing the next move on your last horror show. being able to crank hard is not an indication that one is knowledgeable about the history of our sport. thats all i was trying to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 gneiss visor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.