[TR] Menagerie - Rooster Rock - Callis SE Face 5/25/2007

[corvallisclimb]

Trip: Menagerie - Rooster Rock - Callis SE Face

 

Date: 5/25/2007

 

Trip Report:

Jim Anglin and I spent the past few days fully rebolting and cleaning a classic route up Rooster rock in the Menagerie. This old school route put up in 1959 by Pat Callis and Gerry Honey had grown very green over the past few years and was full of time bomb bolts. We replaced 6 lead bolts on P1 as well as 2 bolts at the anchor, and another 2 bolts on P2 and that anchor as well. We replaced every bolt on route except for the first bolt wich has bomber #3 cam placement right next to it. I did most of the bolting and Jim did most of the scrubbing, and unearthing of P1. We started from the ground and drilled by hand, keeping to the ethics of the place, 8 bolts later my wrist was pretty sore. P3 could use a litte more scrubbing but besides that the route is now in great shape! Another super classic old school 5.7 to be had. So get up there and climb it and keep it clean!

 

 

Jim gardening his way up P1

 

Scrubbing on P1

 

Old bolts

 

Tuning fork

 

Enjoying the finally clean P1

 

Bolting on P2

 

Jim on his route The Beak 5.11a

 

Gear Notes:

the works

 

Approach Notes:

long and uphill

[kevbone]

Killer brah!

[sk]

Thank you. Both of you. you totally RULE!!!

 

xoxooxoxoxox

Muffin

[retired]

Tyler forgot to mention that I discovered the true meaning of heartbreak on this trip...after scrubbing and bolting all day with a very sore hip from slamming into a wall on a silly fall...I arrived back at my van around 7:30 p.m. I wanted to throw up when I realized my van keys were in my pack we had stashed with gear up at rooster...

another 2.2 mi 2,200 feet...and back down before my dinner...what dosen't kill us makes us stronger...I hope. 4 times up the rooster rock trail in 3 days is a record for me.

[billcoe]

Holy crap, that might be a Guiness record as well Jim.

 

You might consider checking into the weight loss contest as you might have a big edge on the rest of those folks! Nice to see you guys doing such a super public service, we all thank you.

 

I almost couldn't believe how much moss had grown on the start there. Wow! Must be global warming and global rainig or something.

[retired]

I believe the menagerie wilderness is actually to blame. In the old days the trees had been logged off and the south face was exposed to the sun...now the second growth has risen and the menagerie is dissapearing into a sea of green. We need more young warriors like Tyler to take over and keep the place clean or a 100 year wind storm to open things up. It was crowded up there...we saw another party. Bill we will have to get you and Joseph up there this summer.

[corvallisclimb]

Jim sorry, next time I'll try picking up your telepathic messages! Post up some of your pictures if you've got em.

[The_Rooster]

It's nice to know that someone cares about this place as much as I do.

 

Thanks for visiting!

 

 

COCK A DOODLE DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[sk]

I believe the menagerie wilderness is actually to blame. In the old days the trees had been logged off and the south face was exposed to the sun...now the second growth has risen and the menagerie is dissapearing into a sea of green. We need more young warriors like Tyler to take over and keep the place clean or a 100 year wind storm to open things up. It was crowded up there...we saw another party. Bill we will have to get you and Joseph up there this summer.

 

I still have yet to climb up there. Totally want to though.

 

DUDE 4 times in 3 days??? someone i think we both know has told me stories about racing here at full run. I am pretty sure hanging out with all you hard men would kill me

 

wouldn't stop me though

[retired]

Muffy,

Those running up the trail days are over for me...still like to run down however. hanging out with us sure wouldn't kill you...you just might wish you were dead! Let me know if you want to climb up there someday and I'll meet you.

[sk]

Muffy,

Those running up the trail days are over for me...still like to run down however. hanging out with us sure wouldn't kill you...you just might wish you were dead! Let me know if you want to climb up there someday and I'll meet you.

 

xoxoxoxoxoxoox

 

as soon as my tootsies heal you are so ON!!!!!

 

[corvallisclimb]

Once that gate opens things are a whole lot mellower...

[111]

[sweatinoutliquor]

You guys rule! Can't wait to get up there this summer and check it out!

[powderhound]

I actually spoke with Callis about the routes he put up at skinners and in this area this last semester. He was telling me he was like 18 at the time. That guy pretty much brought ice climbing to bozeman, now look where it is at. I think he is in his seventies now and he still cranks and puts up new routes, last year I saw him on Zack Attack

 

Someone once told me that he established the first grade six in Yosemite but I am not sure if that is accurate.

[retired]

A great Callis story is the first ascent of hen rock in the menagerie. A group of 4 climbers including Willie Unsoeld had place a single shell bolt at the base of hens final slab but none could pull off the moves. Teenage Pat Callis with girlfriend comes strolling by and they invite hime to have a go. He fires it first time in his p.f. flyers. This slab now sports 3 bolts and is a solid 10a. What we will do to impress the gals.

[corvallisclimb]

This slab now sports 3 bolts and is a solid 10a.

Great story Jim! Note that you rate it 5.9 in your guide, and Dodge gives it a solid 5.7!!

[skyclimb]

solid 5.7 with the use of pine tar....sandbagging mofo's.

[retired]

well you have to inch those ratings up little by little or you may be accused of the ultimate evil...overrating...shudder!

[KingsMM]

when i did the first pitch of that route last summer. I was attacked by red ants. I was getting bit about every second so called it good and rapped off of two bolts and a nut. do you think the ants will be gone with the moss? Anyone find the nut i left?

[corvallisclimb]

when i did the first pitch of that route last summer. I was attacked by red ants. I was getting bit about every second so called it good and rapped off of two bolts and a nut. do you think the ants will be gone with the moss? Anyone find the nut i left?

 

I own your nut now, where do you get your Polish gear or what ever it is? Also why leave the nut there it created a really akward pull on the anchor had it have blow you would have shock loaded those two bolts I imagine you where scared of. Jim and I where fully attacked by red ants while cleaning the climb, I know I slayed at lead 100... But they are still there we didnt kill any nests.

[KingsMM]

if i remember right one bolt looked good the other old/questionable. I hope i would have set up a equalized/ non-shock loading anchor but yea i wanted to get down so i could have messed up. i thought the nut was good did you think otherwise? anyways i bought it at climb max. i guess you got my other booty as well a few biners if i remember right?

 

oh yea - thanks a lot for all the work! I love the Menagerie it's great to have people out there like you guys.

Edited June 15, 2007 by KingsMM

[retired]

I've got a couple of your biners and will gladly return them if we should meet up.

[corvallisclimb]

if i remember right one bolt looked good the other old/questionable. I hope i would have set up a equalized/ non-shock loading anchor but yea i wanted to get down so i could have messed up. i thought the nut was good did you think otherwise?

 

The right one was the bad one(one of the worst I've seen due to where it was placed) the left one was alright. The nut was fully bomber for downward pull but a possible outward pull could have affected it. Doesn't really matter at all, staying safe up there is what its all about. Its hard to treat it like a cragging area up there, you get hurt, your going to be up there for a long time untill you get some help.