[TR] The Tooth - 5/19/2007

[spotly]

Trip: The Tooth -

 

Date: 5/19/2007

 

Trip Report:

A few of us headed up to do The Tooth on Saturday. We had planned on getting onto the route late in the afternoon, doing a

bivy up top then heading back down Sunday morning. The drive from Spokane was fast...as usual. Last time we did the climb, we

took the trail around the right side of the creek then traversed above Source Lake and up to Great Scott. This time we followed the path in the snow to the left of the creek then up near the left shore of the mostly frozen lake. Snow was in great shape - hardly any post-holing. It was steep getting up to Pineapple Pass but great steps. Had to climb over a huge chunk of snow, ice and debris at the top. Then it started to snow and the temperature dropped...alot. It took us 2 hours to reach the main route and by then, the snow and ice had covered the rock pretty good and we elected to do a double rope rap back to Great Scott then head home. Denied. Stopped for burgers on the way home and go back to Spokane around 2 in the morning.

 

Gear Notes:

Bivy bags, 2 ropes, M&Ms

 

Approach Notes:

Rainy but good snow.

[ivan]

heartbreak on da toof!

[Alex]

you guys drove from Spokane...for that...?

[spotly]

you guys drove from Spokane...for that...?

 

Yes.

[G-spotter]

Der Toothwand is a harsh and fickle mistress

[spotly]

True, but we didn't head into this undertaking lightly. Months of training and planning should have ensured success. We missed the window however. Perhaps next year...and with a camera crew.

[plexus]

She's a temptress with a cruel heart, yet holds onto our genitalia with a vice grip. That is why we keep coming back to her, abused, mocked, dare I say it, easy whore that she is.

[DirtyHarry]

Those are some honkin' packs. YOu guys must have had atleast 20 of the ten essentials.

[olyclimber]

Next time try siege tactics. Fix ropes...about 1/2 up there is a ledge large enough to sleep a group of 40 people. Set Camp 2 up there, push to the summit the next day.

[olyclimber]

but if the weather is good i'm betting you make it in a single push. good job on getting out there. i sat in a hot tub for most of the weekend. maybe i should try this climbing thing again.

[catbirdseat]

With persistence you will some day steal the prize.

[G-spotter]

Der Toof is now a project. No one can climb it until spotly returns victorious

[ivan]

YOu guys must have had atleast 20 of the ten essentials.

except the nitro! that WOULD have made the difference.

[dmuja]

update 5/21

 

Ok, who the fudgepack left their draws all up the south face?

[rob]

are they neutrinos?

[spotly]

We did. Setting it up for aid but ran out of gear. We'll be back soon though. I red flagged it so climb at your own risk. Oh, and feel free to use my portaledge halfway up pitch 3.

Edited May 22, 2007 by spotly

[counterfeitfake]

I can't tell what's going on here.

[ivan]

I can't tell what's going on here.

you can tell us, we're teh interweb