Auto Belay Cost? Options?

[rbwen]

Starting to plan a wall for the school where I teach. What are the best options for auto belay systems and what are the costs? Anybody have any experience with a good system?

 

Thanks!

 

rbwen

[catbirdseat]

They have a single device at Stone Gardens that I've used and it works great. I can't recall the make, but I can get back to you on that.

[Rad]

I hope safety is your #1 factor in making a device decision and that cost is secondary.

[G-spotter]

Better to teach safe belaying than to have autobelays. Autobelay device failed and killed a client in a UK gym last year.

[billcoe]

Opps, sorry to have intruded, I thought that the title said "Autofellatio" but it says Autobelay.

 

nevermind

[Off_White]

Yeah Bill, I have a junk 1984 Vanagon I was going to offer up for real cheap, but I seem to have misunderstood as well.

 

By "autobelay" do you mean those inertial reel widgets like they use on those portable climbing towers at State Fairs and such? I'm with Dru, I'd rather have a person with some training holding the other end of my cord.

[rbwen]

I do realize the need for someone to be familiar with belaying, and see the need to teach it to the youngsters, but the people who sign the insurance liability forms don't.

 

When I refer to auto-belay I'm referring to the setups you see on the portable rock walls.

 

rbwen

[crazy_t]

All Star fitness in West Seattle has/ had one, talk to them , I think Dylan is the current supervisor. I used it a few times, it worked, I was never comfortable with the idea though.

[sirwoofalot]

I used the one at stoner gardens before. It is kind of freaky because you are in free fall for a split second.... then the break kicks in.

I was talking to a guy at vertical world. He said while at an indoor gym conference in CO the subject was the auto belay. The question was asked how many gyms have one. Many hands went up.

Then the question was asked, how many of you have the experience where someone climb with out being clipped into the auto belay when they thought they were. All the same hands went up.

The point is we take it for granted that our climbing partners are looking after us and us for them.

 

 

[ketch]

RB, I would start with going to the climbing wall industry and get standards of construction. I have worked with the schools where I am at as well. The insurance pepes are good at telling you what they think. When you can get back with industry standards and preempt them with research it is well worth the time.

 

What you will find with autobelays is that they are expensive and they are maintenance hogs. Fox river and I believe Yates both serve as facilities for this. One real problem for schools is that the service must be performed by a licensed tech and so the shipping and shop time is proportional.

[MarkMcJizzy]

The auto belayer at Stone Gardens is manufactured by either DBI-Sala, or MSA (Mine Safety Appliances). These are companies that have been involved in industrial fall protection "forever". They are expensive, and only a fool would allow anyone but the manufacturer to crack the case.

 

Auto belayers are a slightly different ( Lowering clutch versus complete stop clutch) version of the fall arrestors which are common in construction.

[Lambone]

Eldorado Wall Company distributes "Rose Autobelays," I think they are around $1,500 to $2,000.

 

Most of the risks have been identified above.

 

The devices require maintenance, and testing. Also they need to be calibrated for the appropriote weight of the climbers.

 

Documented failures have been seen with the devices, particularly worn cables snapping. Also user error including people not even clipping into the thing.

 

They don't nescesarily allow for climbing without a qualified supervisor, especially with kids. Someone needs to be there to check that their harness is on properly and they are clipped in right.

 

I don't have any in my gym because I think the negatives and $ ouitweight the positives. We rely on good old fashoined belaying.

 

Also i wouldn't recomend putting anything but a bouldering/traversing wall in a schoold, with adequate padding and a system to keep kids off it when unsupervised.

[rbwen]

Thank you for the great information!

 

rbwen