raps of davis holland/loving arms

[glassgowkiss]

is it possible to get gown with 1x 70m? thanks

[Sol]

yes, if you don't rap onto the sportfishing wall from the top of the 3rd pitch. if you want a harder finish than lovin arms check out senseless thoughts of paranoia, its rad.

[glassgowkiss]

Thanks- r

[Drederek]

You can make it with a 60 but just barely!

[Blake]

You can make it with a 60 but just barely!

 

Any tricks or things to keep in mind when rapping off DH-LA with a 60m rope? (first time rapping the UTW)

[matt_m]

You can make it with a 60 but just barely!

 

Any tricks or things to keep in mind when rapping off DH-LA with a 60m rope? (first time rapping the UTW)

 

yeah - don't! just barely might be the case with his 60m but I know of others that came up 5 feet short and had to flip upside down and clip the anchor with a 4' sling. not good.

 

IIRC my 70m had TOPS, 12 feet to spare on one of the raps (the anchor beneath the roof - top of P2 I think). So 70m minus 24 feet = 63m if I'm conservative. Close but, man, that's a suck ending if you don't have the "long 60m"

[RuMR]

bob's fat...he'll stretch his 60 into a 65 in short order...

[Rad]

So...can we get by with a single 60 for DHLA or do we need a second rope (don't have a 70)?

 

This thread says no, this one (Layton) says yes: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=31&Number=672154&Searchpage=1&Main=50411&Words=davis&topic=0&Search=true#Post672154

 

Leaving in the morning...

Thanks

[counterfeitfake]

walk off?

[Rad]

walk off?

 

That would be fine. Shoes are much lighter than a second rope. Any beta?

[Drederek]

Head climbers left and away from the edge at the the top till you hit the road (50m ?) head left down the road till you see the trail on the left, Its not too much farther and will put you back on the trail to the upper wall about 10 mins from the base. Let us know anchor status pls, thx.

[Rad]

Cool. Thanks. That means no backing off!

[Blake]

70 is fine, no-go with a 60

[tyree]

Just rappel down Heavens Gate with one 70m fromthe top. From the top get on the trial and head down about 200 yards and look for a clearing in the trees next to the cliff. Follow the trai to the clearing and peer over the edge, go around the tree and clip into the anchor then downclimb to the fat ledge. Four single rope rappels easily take you to the bottom.

this is much nicer that rapping off DHLA or walking down the trail to the gully to rap (got the rope stuck once a long time ago) .

[counterfeitfake]

The walkoff requires zero raps.

[DRep]

just free solo the damn thing.... you'll save a ton of weight without a rack and rope. you can't rap, but you can walk off like counterfeitfake said. I have faith in your abilities, although I probably have never met you.

[Rad]

Climbed with rope. Walked down good trail. No sweat (actually, lots of sweat on p2!). Great day out!

[Drederek]

On a humid day with some sun p2 can be quite a beast!

[Sol]

Just rappel down Heavens Gate with one 60m fromthe top. From the top get on the trial and head down about 200 yards and look for a clearing in the trees next to the cliff. Follow the trai to the clearing and peer over the edge, go around the tree and clip into the anchor then downclimb to the fat ledge. Four single rope rappels easily take you to the bottom.

this is much nicer that rapping off DHLA or walking down the trail to the gully to rap (got the rope stuck once a long time ago) .

 

WARNING: you need a 70m rope for the last Heavens Gate rap.

[Blake]

To Rap off the UTW with a 60:

 

Rap Golden Road (BLUE), which is an all-bolted route just (climber's) right of Heaven's Gate, and which runs down the arete on the left side of the chasm/chimney thing.

 

 

Getting to the first station requires one very short diagonal rap (rightward) from the top of Heaven's gate. From that point downward all pitches are basically 25 vertical meters, so a 60m rope is super fast and easy. Each station has beefy new stainless steel 1/2" bolts, and none is truly 'hanging'. I doubt the walkoff could be much faster, and this way you don't need shoes.

[NoahT]

When we did DHLA last year, someone had a couple hundred feet of static fixed from bottom to top, chalk marks and tics all over Green Dragon. Now that was fast...