Edelweiss Ropes

[JayB]

Anyone out there had any experience with Edelweiss ropes? I've heard good things about them, but they don't seem to have much of a distribution network in the US, so neither I nor anyone I know has actually climbed with them. This could also be due to the fact that their ropes are quite expensive. However, Barrabes has come to the rescue once again and you can get them for less than comparable ropes in the US. Specifically, I'm looking at picking up two 8.5mm x 60M ropes for ice, if it ever comes in. Still bone dry and warm here in the Rockies.

[Lambone]

Jay,

The Stratos are the way to go! They are a 9mm chord, have a stiff hand, and hold up to tons of abuse. The core is woven with an extra filiment which makes the rope less prone to failing over a sharp edge. I think they pass the UIAA edge test, but don't quote me on that.

Two thums up, they are bomber! But hella expensive...

Wet and warm here, should set up well if it ever gets cold

[Dr.E]

I've had good luck with Edelweiss Stratos too. I've had a couple three 10.5's over 20 years of climbing amidst several other single ropes and they are the best. Not always easy to find in configuration (size, length, color, dry/non) desired and way expensive. But I would always go for them given other things being equal. They handle well, don't kink as easy, don't fuzz up to 14mm, and the dry treatment is great (and it doesn't get all black from biner rub like some ropes either). No, I don't rep for them. Just like em. Go for it.

[dan_e]

Yes, these ropes are supposed to be some of the best for protection against sharp edges, but then again so is steel cable! No, not that bad but they are pretty stiff.

And how can you complain about the weather in the Rockies

quote:

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Still bone dry and warm here in the Rockies

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At least there is some ice up there, better than rain with no ice for sure!

[David_Parker]

I have used and like eidelweiss ropes. I think any rope that is "super" dry will be stiff.

[Lambone]

I have found that supple ropes totaly suck in the winter(Blue Water ). They just freeze up and become ice cables anyway...

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

Lillooet - good. LILLOOET LILLOOET LILLOOET. "Ell-eye-double-ell-double-oh-et-tee."

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A handy mnemnonic: "Big Lou et in Li'l-loo-et!"

[Cpt.Caveman]

I like ropes. I have an Edelwiess but I dont think it feels any tougher. They have supposed test over edge falls etc. I honestly am not more willing to take a fall on that rope though.......

[texplorer]

Edelweiss makes cheaper ropes too. I have used an 11m rope for some time and despite it getting dirty really fast has held up fine.

[chriss]

JayB,

Haven't owned an Edelweiss in 20 years.Don't know about the rope.

But I know Mt. Lincoln is hardly "roadside" ice. Head for Officer's Gulch, off I70, soon. Not as crowded as Lincoln, has a few long moderates. Get there befor ski season really takes off, as the area is avalanche prone later in the season.

chris

[JayB]

Chriss:

Any favorites in the area? I've got Burn's book but it's always nice to have additional info on what's out there. I lead in the WI II+/IV- range.

Thanks

[JayB]

Hey - Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I think I'll go ahead and order them, but if anyone else has any input I'd love to hear it. When I head out to the PNW for Christmas maybe I'll get a chance to try it out on some local stuff. What are the odds of Banks Lake or Lilloet(sp?)being in in late December?

And, yeah, having grown up in Washington, I know all to well that the weather in Colorado is nothing to complain about, but there's still been a lot of griping on this side of the Continental divide about the paucity of ice of late. There's some stuff in Rocky Mountain National Park, and we did have a pretty good outing on some mellow AI-2 stuff. Simul-climbed about 800 feet using a Ti-bloc every rope length or so - worked like a charm. Kudos whoever put that tech-tip in the last climbing mag. Anyhow, If anyone's curious, you can take a look at the only roadside ice in the state at:

http://www.climbingboulder.com/ice/db/hoosier_pass_lincoln_fall/

I'm going to take my GF up there when she heads out here for Thanksgiving next week.

Cheers,

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by JayB:

What are the odds of Banks Lake or Lilloet(sp?)being in in late December?

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Lillooet - good. LILLOOET LILLOOET LILLOOET. "Ell-eye-double-ell-double-oh-et-tee."

[chriss]

JayB

I have heard that Hully Gully is open to climbing now. It was off limits for years. Real close, as it is in Cheyenne Canyon. I've never done it though. Moved away before it became legal. Sorry no favorites for me. Liked the variety.

chris

[JayB]

Got the Ropes (two 8.5mm X 60M Edelweiss Calanques) last week and took them out for a test drive and thought I'd post my thoughts on the goods.

As far as handling is concerned, the ropes were quite supple, with very good hand. All new dry ropes shed water pretty well, in my experience, but these stayed dry and ice free better than any ropes I've used, most recently the PMI 8.1's. The conditions on Mt. Lincoln were warm and fairly wet for most of the day, with a good inch or so of slop on top of very soft ice on the steeper bits and puddles of water on the flat parts. Anyhow, the ropes stayed ice-free even after wallowing in this slush all day, which was especially impressive when it cooled off and carabiners were freezing shut and runners turned into hula-hoops. I'd definitely recommend 'em if anyone's in the market.