Bronco Posted October 2, 2001 Posted October 2, 2001 Anyone have one of these newer type Petzl harneses Calidris or Corax? I am looking for an all around (craggin, alpine, trad, ice) harness. Have an older REI harness that has served me well, but want something a little more comfy to hang in. Quote
jon Posted October 2, 2001 Posted October 2, 2001 Yes they rock! The most comfortable harness I've ever worn. Plastic gear loops kick butt. Only complaints, there are only two sizes and there isn't a good place to hook your chalk bag. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Posted October 2, 2001 Charlie is now a fan of non plastic gear loops I hear Quote
Bronco Posted October 2, 2001 Author Posted October 2, 2001 What other harnesses do you dirtbag hippies or yuppie gapers think is the best thing swami belts went out of style? Â Quote
willstrickland Posted October 2, 2001 Posted October 2, 2001 Originally posted by Bronco: What other harnesses do you dirtbag hippies or yuppie gapers think is the best thing swami belts went out of style? For aid: Yates "Big Wall" and "Shield" Harnesses (plush!) Alpine: BD Alpine Bod (cheap, light, adjustable, can justify having it for newbies etc) Free: Those new Petzls (although I think the slanted gear loops are the most overhyped rated thing since Joe Brooks put the drill and chisel down long enough to pose with the "magnetic kneebar pad" I mean really, how often are you in a position where your waist is level and those things (slanted gear loops) will make any difference?) Hard plastic loops are nice, but they've had those for at least 10 years )I loved my old Petzl Mercury, but I'm growing to hate my Petzl Jump. Not having a full-strength clip-in loop (on the new models) in the middle of the back is a huge oversight on Petzl's part IMO. -WS [This message has been edited by willstrickland (edited 10-02-2001).] [This message has been edited by willstrickland (edited 10-02-2001).] Quote
Gerg Posted October 2, 2001 Posted October 2, 2001 The new Petzl harnesses are pretty damn sweet. After enduring an unpadded harness for 7 years, going from an BD alpine bod to the Corax was such a good choice for me, though YMMV. The Corax is a lot more comfotable, especially at hanging belays and aid climbing. It has held up quite well, in my opinion to the significant amount of abrasion I've given it during multiple pitches of chimney's. I've even taken a bit of a whipper or two on it with not a bruise (from the harness) to show for my efforts. A couple of gripes though--the droppable leg clip in the back comes off pretty easily, the plastic gear loops are not large enough for larger trad rack (when I don't feel like wearing a gear sling) though they work fine for sport, and just because I wear a size 2 waist for my beer gut doesn't mean that my legs are size 2 too (as such, my leg loops sag a big more than I like). I haven't been motivated enough to see about buying replacement leg loops of the right size though, so maybe this is an avoidable problem. I usually wear my chalk bag on a seperate belt, so no place on the harness for the chalk bag didn't bother me. No haul loop was a bit of a draw back, but it hasn't bothered me to date and is a nicety that doesn't make or break the harness in my opinion. If it is a good fit for your body type, then I'd rate it 4 out of 5 stars. If they were to improve on one or more of my gripes, then it would be a near perfect harness. -gev Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted October 3, 2001 Posted October 3, 2001 I gotta agree with Will S. (unless you only want a sport harness). Don't consider a harness without a full strength rear loop. They are just too handy and may just save your butt if something else screws up. Quote
Bronco Posted October 4, 2001 Author Posted October 4, 2001 I agree with both of you on the necesity of a rear tie in loop on a harness. For harnesses without, what does one think of taking a short sewn runner (8") doubling it up and sliding it onto the back of the waist belt for a haul/tie in loop? It would be plenty strong and it seems the only concern would be how to keep it from sliding around ( stitch or duct tape baby!). Quote
none_dup1 Posted October 5, 2001 Posted October 5, 2001 "Don't consider a harness without a full strength rear loop. They are just too handy and may just save your butt if something else screws up." Why is a "full strength" real haul loop important? You guys would not actually ever tie into it, would you? That technique is a bit outdated, by my understanding. It can really mess up your back if you catch a big fall, and it's almost impossible to escape the belay if you need to initiate a rescue. I use the rear loop for a chalk bag and to clip a 2nd rope to - a beefy loop is not needed for either task. So, why the big deal about the strength of the loop? Seems to me that if tying in the back was a good idea, then Petzl would have kept the bomber rear haul loop. Harness makers know what they are doing. Your thoughts? Quote
Dru Posted October 5, 2001 Posted October 5, 2001 Full strength haul loop is necessary for the face first rappel. Amaze the gapers! Astound the rock bunnies! Actuall I would tie into it for those long aid pitches, with the haul line, if your lead rope is suddenly chopped by a loose flake you quickly clip the haul line into some pieces and hey presto you are still tied in to a full strengthg loop. worse comes to worse it has less chance of breaking than a silly plastic haul loop does. i did use it once but the rope didn't get cut just too much rope drag! so i finished the last 10m to the anchor leading on the haul line and partner had to jug the haul line cause the lead line was tied off to the piece 10m down from the anchor. Quote
Lambone Posted October 5, 2001 Posted October 5, 2001 Not having a full-strength clip-in loop (on the new models) in the middle of the back is a huge oversight on Petzl's part IMO. -WS Will, Actually, its not an oversight at all. Petzl left the rear loop out on purpose. Why? Acording to the local Rep.- because people use the rear gear loop to clip into the anchor with while belaying the second. Why is this a problem?-Ever try to escape the belay while the anchor is clipped to your ass? It's not so easy. Petzl is just trying to eliminate bad situations by simplifying their gear. It does have one draw back in that you cant trail a haul line as easily. Other than that I think these harneses are great! Â Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 5, 2001 Posted October 5, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: yeah nic, but if you have 2 daisy chains, a lead rope, and a fifi hook all tied into the front loop/tie in area of your harness, sure is nice to have a separate loop on the back for the haul line to keep the clutter under some type of order. Â Nic is a freak Dru. What makes you think he aid climbs at all? Is a fifi some kind of sex toy? Â Quote
pms Posted October 5, 2001 Posted October 5, 2001 I can suggest an easy way to improvise a strong haul loop, by carefully girth hitching a 12" sewn runner to the back of most harnesses. Quote
Dru Posted October 5, 2001 Posted October 5, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Nic is a freak Dru. What makes you think he aid climbs at all? Is a fifi some kind of sex toy? Â "Fifi" might own a few sex toys but she would probably charge you extra for calling her that. oooh la la! Â Quote
freak Posted October 6, 2001 Posted October 6, 2001 ahem yes I am a freak, Im waiting to aid unil I cant boulder crimp any more, but I do consider myself a profesional line jugger, hehhehheh see you in l-worth nic Quote
freak Posted October 6, 2001 Posted October 6, 2001 I got one of those things mostly to impress the chicks, they dont care one way or another wether the haul loop is in place or not,, ,I Just tie the extra rope on the front. nic Quote
Dru Posted October 6, 2001 Posted October 6, 2001 yeah nic, but if you have 2 daisy chains, a lead rope, and a fifi hook all tied into the front loop/tie in area of your harness, sure is nice to have a separate loop on the back for the haul line to keep the clutter under some type of order. Quote
Bronco Posted November 15, 2001 Author Posted November 15, 2001 BTW: With the new petzl harnes with the drop seat, there is a good place to hang your chalk bag, on that plastic drop seat point (the part attached to the leg straps) where it attached to the waist belt, there is a little hole similar to the hole on the gear loops for attaching a biner for your ice screws. drop in a biner, hang your chalk bag and wal-ah! this harnes is cushy! Quote
dbb Posted November 15, 2001 Posted November 15, 2001 I agree with pms, I use a small 3" sewn loop slid onto the harness into the back for a full strength trail loop. Simply secure it with a rubber band, leaving enough loop to clip into. I haven't noticed that it pushes on my butt any more than the droppable legloops fast-ex buckle... Quote
haireball Posted November 18, 2001 Posted November 18, 2001 on the subject of a full-strenght haul-loop: anchoring yourself at the rear of the harness, and belaying off the front, is a dangerous practice. besides making the belay difficult to escape, it can result in injury to the belayer who catches a significant fall from this configuration. if all you're doing is trailing a haul rope, then any of the gear-loops will work for this purpose... I'm glad Petzl recognizes that a manufacturer may elect to design their products to make them more difficult to misuse.still, I can't see why anyone would pay Petzl's premium prices, when I can purchase a harness with virtually identical features for less than half the price (gearexpress.com - ABC Blast harness by Singing Rock, currently $29.95-I just ordered two of these this week) [ 11-18-2001: Message edited by: haireball ] Quote
Bronco Posted November 19, 2001 Author Posted November 19, 2001 Hairball: The ABC Blast harness is almost identical to the one I am replacing with the Petzl Calidris (which is what I ended up buying from Karstsports.com for $82.00) The Blast has almost NONE of the features of the Petzl Calidris. On the other hand I agree with you about the $$$ issue and the rear belay point. This is the most comfy harness I have ever worn. And I wore everthing I could lay my hands on prior to making a purchase. I just hope it holds up well. Quote
Dru Posted November 19, 2001 Posted November 19, 2001 whatever happened to good old tied-length-of-1 inch webbing harnesses Quote
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