rob Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 On steep snow, my alp wings self-belay pretty well, but I've never actually tried to self-arrest with them. I'm guessing that it would pretty much be teh suck. For easier/moderate stuff, I see people sometimes bring an ice axe and only 1 tool. But for harder stuff where you might want 2 tools, I was wondering what most people do: bring along an axe for self-arresting on the steeps and sling it on the pack when the tools come out, or leave the axe at home and cross yer fingers? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 bring two tools don't fall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChestBeater Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I would like to take this opportunity to say that I climbed Liberty Ridge with a mountaineering axe and a little kiddie toy axe. I am the shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I would like to take this opportunity to say that I climbed Liberty Ridge with a mountaineering axe and a little kiddie toy axe. I am the shit. Why are you chestbeating about such overkill I used a ski pole and a rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I used a Swiss Army knife and a stick. :neener: :neener: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I use human femur bones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I used my tongue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 you guys are losers, all of you... I climbed that route with with my hands and rocks TIED to my hiking boots!... IN SHORTS!! In April! Like I said, I rule, you guys suck. (and no, there was no polypro under those shorts either....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 i pee bowling-ball monodoights into the ice and crank on those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I used a ski pole and a rock I climbed the glacier on the NE buttress of Jberg with a rock since I lost my tool somewhere on route. in a way, it's the lightest option since you pick it up when you need it and toss it when you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 i pee bowling-ball monodoights into the ice and crank on those Whoa! You're "really hardcore"... I am glad I don't follow your leads... All that pee would "mess" things up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 As a "Hyperconscious Master of The Extreme" the only ethically pure form of climbing is soloing anyhow. Followers are aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 All this chestbeating is choice. What a funny thread. Did I mention that I didn't really use the Swiss Army knife? Just the toothpick that comes with it. Yah, that's what I meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 being 6'7", it pisses me off not having an axe on low-angle stuff b/c the tools are just too short - my little kid trekking pole works nice though - you shouldn't fall on easy shit, and if you're worried about having to arrest, you might as well just face into the hill and use both tools so you don't fall in the first place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 you shouldn't fall on easy shit I'm fighting the urge to be cruel right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 some emperor palpatine you'd make! i like taking my crampons off and throwing myself down icy slopes like a demented tobogan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Excellent arrest, though, I must grant you that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 Thanks for the tips, guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 some emperor palpatine you'd make! i like taking my crampons off and throwing myself down icy slopes like a demented tobogan Ha... thats what skis and snowboards are for... Duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Usually I go up routes like you described with one tool, other time two tools, then sometime I just go by myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 That's a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 being 6'7", it pisses me off not having an axe on low-angle stuff b/c the tools are just too short - my little kid trekking pole works nice though - you shouldn't fall on easy shit, and if you're worried about having to arrest, you might as well just face into the hill and use both tools so you don't fall in the first place If you are travelling roped on a glacier and your partner falls into a crevasse, what are you going to arrest with, your 45 cm ice tool. No, you want an ice axe! It's one thing to say "I'm not going to fall". It's another to say you'll avoid crevasse falls 100% of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 i've self-arrested w/ an ice-tool plenty before - though not because a partner went into a crevasse - you thinking the narrower pick would make that much a difference in holding the extra weight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 being 6'7", it pisses me off not having an axe on low-angle stuff b/c the tools are just too short - my little kid trekking pole works nice though - you shouldn't fall on easy shit, and if you're worried about having to arrest, you might as well just face into the hill and use both tools so you don't fall in the first place If you are travelling roped on a glacier and your partner falls into a crevasse, what are you going to arrest with, your 45 cm ice tool. yep the friction of the rope on the lip does most of the work. sometimes just sitting down will be enough to stop the fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 makes sense - might be less friction if the glacier's bare ice but then you should see the crevasse and if you did need to arrest, wailing the pick of a tool in might be better anyhow - at any rate, carrying a big old extra axe on a challenging alpine line might lead to getting ridiculed on teh interweb if a picture leaked out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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