rob Posted April 12, 2007 Posted April 12, 2007 On steep snow, my alp wings self-belay pretty well, but I've never actually tried to self-arrest with them. I'm guessing that it would pretty much be teh suck. For easier/moderate stuff, I see people sometimes bring an ice axe and only 1 tool. But for harder stuff where you might want 2 tools, I was wondering what most people do: bring along an axe for self-arresting on the steeps and sling it on the pack when the tools come out, or leave the axe at home and cross yer fingers? TIA Quote
ChestBeater Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 I would like to take this opportunity to say that I climbed Liberty Ridge with a mountaineering axe and a little kiddie toy axe. I am the shit. Quote
G-spotter Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 I would like to take this opportunity to say that I climbed Liberty Ridge with a mountaineering axe and a little kiddie toy axe. I am the shit. Why are you chestbeating about such overkill I used a ski pole and a rock Quote
sobo Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 I used a Swiss Army knife and a stick. :neener: :neener: Quote
Frikadeller Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 you guys are losers, all of you... I climbed that route with with my hands and rocks TIED to my hiking boots!... IN SHORTS!! In April! Like I said, I rule, you guys suck. (and no, there was no polypro under those shorts either....) Quote
G-spotter Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 i pee bowling-ball monodoights into the ice and crank on those Quote
kurthicks Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 I used a ski pole and a rock I climbed the glacier on the NE buttress of Jberg with a rock since I lost my tool somewhere on route. in a way, it's the lightest option since you pick it up when you need it and toss it when you're done. Quote
Frikadeller Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 i pee bowling-ball monodoights into the ice and crank on those Whoa! You're "really hardcore"... I am glad I don't follow your leads... All that pee would "mess" things up! Quote
G-spotter Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 As a "Hyperconscious Master of The Extreme" the only ethically pure form of climbing is soloing anyhow. Followers are aid. Quote
sobo Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 All this chestbeating is choice. What a funny thread. Did I mention that I didn't really use the Swiss Army knife? Just the toothpick that comes with it. Yah, that's what I meant. Quote
ivan Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 being 6'7", it pisses me off not having an axe on low-angle stuff b/c the tools are just too short - my little kid trekking pole works nice though - you shouldn't fall on easy shit, and if you're worried about having to arrest, you might as well just face into the hill and use both tools so you don't fall in the first place Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 you shouldn't fall on easy shit I'm fighting the urge to be cruel right now... Quote
ivan Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 some emperor palpatine you'd make! i like taking my crampons off and throwing myself down icy slopes like a demented tobogan Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted April 13, 2007 Posted April 13, 2007 Excellent arrest, though, I must grant you that. Quote
Frikadeller Posted April 15, 2007 Posted April 15, 2007 some emperor palpatine you'd make! i like taking my crampons off and throwing myself down icy slopes like a demented tobogan Ha... thats what skis and snowboards are for... Duh! Quote
ken4ord Posted April 16, 2007 Posted April 16, 2007 Usually I go up routes like you described with one tool, other time two tools, then sometime I just go by myself. Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 being 6'7", it pisses me off not having an axe on low-angle stuff b/c the tools are just too short - my little kid trekking pole works nice though - you shouldn't fall on easy shit, and if you're worried about having to arrest, you might as well just face into the hill and use both tools so you don't fall in the first place If you are travelling roped on a glacier and your partner falls into a crevasse, what are you going to arrest with, your 45 cm ice tool. No, you want an ice axe! It's one thing to say "I'm not going to fall". It's another to say you'll avoid crevasse falls 100% of the time. Quote
ivan Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 i've self-arrested w/ an ice-tool plenty before - though not because a partner went into a crevasse - you thinking the narrower pick would make that much a difference in holding the extra weight? Quote
G-spotter Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 being 6'7", it pisses me off not having an axe on low-angle stuff b/c the tools are just too short - my little kid trekking pole works nice though - you shouldn't fall on easy shit, and if you're worried about having to arrest, you might as well just face into the hill and use both tools so you don't fall in the first place If you are travelling roped on a glacier and your partner falls into a crevasse, what are you going to arrest with, your 45 cm ice tool. yep the friction of the rope on the lip does most of the work. sometimes just sitting down will be enough to stop the fall. Quote
ivan Posted April 17, 2007 Posted April 17, 2007 makes sense - might be less friction if the glacier's bare ice but then you should see the crevasse and if you did need to arrest, wailing the pick of a tool in might be better anyhow - at any rate, carrying a big old extra axe on a challenging alpine line might lead to getting ridiculed on teh interweb if a picture leaked out of it Quote
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