Bolt Replacement possibility

[111]

I just recently hopped on Karate Crack at smith and had a ton of fun, right up to the end of the crack. The downclimb to the anchors in the cave kinda detracts from an otherwise very aesthetic crack. I wanted to get input from the rest of the community about enlisting CorvallisClimb to go and help rebolt the anchors so they are at the end of the hand traverse but before the downclimb into the cave. Does anyone have a thought on why it was bolted in such an awkward place to begin with? I dont have the guide in front of me but I would certainly get the FA's permission and jump through all the necessary hoops before doing this. Thoughts?

[kevbone]

There are two climbs in reference here that use that anchor. The first pitch of the OW up and right (forgot the name) ends at that anchor and then the 2nd pitch takes off from there, and the end of Karate crack. Problem is climbers have been doing it this way for 20 years. I personally dont have a problem with refitting a new higher anchor but I think you will run into problems.

 

And this is not the forum for it. you should post your question on Smithrock.com.

Edited April 5, 2007 by kevbone

[fgw]

I think it's not a good idea for reason mentioned above (2nd pitch takes off up the chimney to OW - even if it's rarely done) and the fact that if you move the anchors to be level with the finishing traverse on KC, you'll be able to lower off and TR the second from the ground

 

= permanent top rope (and eveyone in the class of 250 people learning on Easy Reader nearby wants to get a ride).

[kevbone]

On the other hand…..its smith rock. Who fucking cares? Bolt away.

[corvallisclimb]

What are people thoughts on making the 1 bolt anchor on red rover on the red wall a 2 bolt anchor? or making the line go on to anchor? thats my possibility?

[kevbone]

I’m down with making any one bolt anchor a two bolt anchor.

[billcoe]

What are people thoughts on making the 1 bolt anchor on red rover on the red wall a 2 bolt anchor? or making the line go on to anchor? thats my possibility?

 

I haven't done that route for so long I think I forgot it existed. So I have no opinion.

 

On Karate, I think that is better left as is. It makes you think, especially as a leader, about protecting for the follower. There are precious few of this kind of route over there (Culls in space too), I'd be for leaving it as theres the history of the thing as well, despite the fact that it's a real strange hit follow.

 

There are plenty of straight up routes over there, no need to straighten this one out - my opinion only.

 

But as Kev says, it IS Smith after all:-)

[MarkMcJizzy]

. Problem is climbers have been doing it this way for 20 years.

 

Probably more like thirtyfive years

[luvshaker]

Leave it, and keep what little history that remains at Smith intact.

 

I was scared to climb KC for a year before I did it, mostly because of the traverse. My first trip up KC I flailed across the traverse placing marginal gear. I went back up to inspect and sucked. I shoved in the right size cam to protect the follower. He fell, the cam held, memories made.

Now it's one of my favorite climbs.

 

Or add anchors and see about 20 more TR laps daily. But that's OK since no groups ever seem to gather in that area anyway.

 

 

[kevbone]

But that's OK since no groups ever seem to gather in that area anyway.

 

 

Thats funny.

[markd]

What are people thoughts on making the 1 bolt anchor on red rover on the red wall a 2 bolt anchor? or making the line go on to anchor? thats my possibility?

 

I haven't done that route for so long I think I forgot it existed. So I have no opinion.

 

On Karate, I think that is better left as is. It makes you think, especially as a leader, about protecting for the follower. There are precious few of this kind of route over there (Culls in space too), I'd be for leaving it as theres the history of the thing as well, despite the fact that it's a real strange hit follow.

 

There are plenty of straight up routes over there, no need to straighten this one out - my opinion only.

 

But as Kev says, it IS Smith after all:-)

 

i completely agree here. karate crack should stay as is. it's also is the best spot to belay when doing the chimney above.

 

sundown also has this same style anchor setup too

[markd]

chris garner using skill alone to safely move up this beautiful crack.

 

 

 

 

[MATT_B]

I have not been on Karate in a long time but if I remember correctly you do the traverse, turn the corner into the cave down climb 8 feet or so to a ledge or a stance at the anchor bolts. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If you moved the anchor where exactly were you thinking of putting it? At the end of the traverse before you turn the corner? If you locate it before you turn the corner your chopping a good chunk of the route off. If you put it around the corner you now have a hanging belay. If you want to lower and TR from the "new" anchor it is probably even worse than the original anchor. Either way, leave the anchor as is.

 

As for red rover, that vaguely rings a bell. If it is a trad line with natural gear options why bother with a bolt. If it is a sport route or there are no other gear options fire up the drill. I'm sure there are other routes out there that have one bolt anchors that could probably be re-evaluated, I can think of at least one.

[corvallisclimb]

As for red rover, that vaguely rings a bell. If it is a trad line with natural gear options why bother with a bolt. If it is a sport route or there are no other gear options fire up the drill. I'm sure there are other routes out there that have one bolt anchors that could probably be re-evaluated, I can think of at least one.

 

ya its a sport route that goes off after the 1st pitch of super slab. its usually pretty stupid IMO usually the FA party being lazy or poor. what other routes are you thinking of?

 

on amphetimine grip right next to red rover, at the better belay spot theres an ancient fixed pin, where the gears not the best, does any one care if this fixed pins replaced?

[markd]

As for red rover, that vaguely rings a bell. If it is a trad line with natural gear options why bother with a bolt. If it is a sport route or there are no other gear options fire up the drill. I'm sure there are other routes out there that have one bolt anchors that could probably be re-evaluated, I can think of at least one.

 

ya its a sport route that goes off after the 1st pitch of super slab. its usually pretty stupid IMO usually the FA party being lazy or poor. what other routes are you thinking of?

 

on amphetimine grip right next to red rover, at the better belay spot theres an ancient fixed pin, where the gears not the best, does any one care if this fixed pins replaced?

 

amphetamine group was climbed in the ground up era and should be honored as such. imho, the pin should be replaced with a pin - if even at all. when the pin comes out a nice stopper may go in.

[corvallisclimb]

As for red rover, that vaguely rings a bell. If it is a trad line with natural gear options why bother with a bolt. If it is a sport route or there are no other gear options fire up the drill. I'm sure there are other routes out there that have one bolt anchors that could probably be re-evaluated, I can think of at least one.

 

ya its a sport route that goes off after the 1st pitch of super slab. its usually pretty stupid IMO usually the FA party being lazy or poor. what other routes are you thinking of?

 

on amphetimine grip right next to red rover, at the better belay spot theres an ancient fixed pin, where the gears not the best, does any one care if this fixed pins replaced?

 

amphetamine group was climbed in the ground up era and should be honored as such. imho, the pin should be replaced with a pin - if even at all. when the pin comes out a nice stopper may go in.

 

Exactly why I suggested pin for pin. The spot most likely wouldnt take a nut, it would be a thin LA I think. Right now its an ancient ring angle, I'd assume from the FA. I'll probably just leave it, but I much prefer that belay spot on that route, but the rest of the gear in the belay are some akward flared aliens. Not the most secure for the run out above. Classic route that deserves more traffic.

[pink]

nice pics as always.

 

thanks mark.

[markd]

sounds good tyler. most people lead that pitch all in 1, so as to not have a big runout right off the belay.

 

see ya soon.

[markd]

thanks pink! when you heading back this way - it's climbing season.

[billcoe]

 

amphetamine group was climbed in the ground up era and should be honored as such. imho, the pin should be replaced with a pin - if even at all. when the pin comes out a nice stopper may go in.

 

Damn Mark those are great pictures! Thanks for sharing em.

 

I think I agree with MarkD about A grip here, but will note that I suspect that Danny and Steve (the F. Ascentionists) would probably be good, perhaps even happy, with a bolt.

 

Steve (Strauch) still climbed for years after Danny (Gates) quit. One time I was out climbing with Steve somewhere and he says something like this: "about time someone finally put in a bolt on Golums Hang (N Face Broughtons). He told me that he "was surprised" that the fixed blade he'd driven up there had lasted so long. "How many people have fallen on that and it held over the years do ya think?" he asked me while laughing. (I had no clue). He said he didn't think it would hold his fall, and clearly he was surprised that hundreds more climbed the route sucessfully for many many years and just clipped the pin and went.

 

ON Amphedimine GRip, imagine that FA on runout last 20-25 feet pre-cams, with loose rock all over everything, never been done before, cranked out of your head to the point that your muscles are tweeked (gripped), trying for the top and hoping it goes.

 

Yeowza

[MATT_B]

[quote=corvallisclimb

] what other routes are you thinking of?

 

The one I remember for sure was Green Gully on the Wombat. I don't think it gets much traffic so it may not even be worth the effort The it's the belay for the last pitch. It had one 1/4 incher that I backed up with a worthless stopper and nothing else. It was on a decent size ledge so it's not like your hanging on the anchor. You probably wouldn't rappel from it either. The pitch start out quite loose and wide so you don't get any gear for a little while. The climbing is easy (5.6) but if you blew something it could be ugly. When you top out there are no bolts but you don't really need them. It tops out on a little ridge that is class 2/3 on the back side. Hop over the ridge and bring the second up. Not sure if it is even worth the effort to fix the anchor or not but I thought I would mention it.

 

I also remember topping out on something that only had one bolt on top and nothing else decent to anchor too. I it was on basalt but other than that I don't remember. I'm sure there are more out there.

[jlag]

Red Rover is gear, run-out gear, not a sport climb. It was a while back so maybe it's been bolted, i hope not. You don't top out(at least i couldn't find a 5.8 way)that's why you can't use a gear anchor. I lowered off the single bolt but the route may have kept going, but with a 5.8 rating it seemed off.

 

Pretty cool route though.

[fgw]

what other routes are you thinking of?

Tyler, if it's any route that has shitty anchors on top, here are 2 candidates:

Dolf's Dihedral has 1 ancient bolt, 1 angle, 1 nut as top anchor. Perpetual Motion next door has 3 pitons all dangling neatly from a webbing stuffed into a crack.

Thank you for all the efforts.

[wayne]

 

= permanent top rope (and eveyone in the class of 250 people learning on Easy Reader nearby wants to get a ride).

 

Very well said!

[billcoe]

Wow, I just got back but I woke up this morning thinking of this one and haven't stopped yet.

 

At Smith, towards Monkey Face, I think it's King Kong (maybe Godzilla?) that has like 30-40 feet of unprotected climbing towards the top before you get to the single bolt on the route which is right at the crux, it's an old 1/4" Rawl stud with NO hanger. But it does have some old 1/2" webbing/tat on it. (there is, however, a hidden crack offroute to the left lower down which you can get a few small wireds into which probably makes the fall only 20-30 feet if the bolt pulls and your shit holds)

 

You have to just clip the tat and go.

 

Has that been replaced yet? Been a long while since I've been on that route. I think that route hardly ever is done because of it, I have NEVER seen a soul on it, ever, but if there was a real bolt/good pro there.....

 

Thoughts on that one?