drater Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 nothing harder than v2 or v3 and good rests. remember when v2 was like 11a and v3 was like 11b and v5 was entry level 12a? Back in the day and shit... Now, according to 8a.spew, v7 is mid 5.12. What a crock... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 oh yeah, sargent_rock not looking weak at 53... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 that climb's rad, starting in the back of the cave! i love that area. and all the crimp shit just left of there! beautiful tonasket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 yeah, that place doesn't suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I climbed at an early age and am still climbing at 48. But not as hard as when I was 18 and 28, or even 38. But that 37 to 45 mark is a hard one. The metabolism slows down, the joints slow down cartiledge production, and ALL the old injuries remind you of the past. Interesting that none of them were climbing related. Even though my body takes more care to keep it in shape, I enjoy the activity and cannot get tired of climbing some huge alpine ridge or face, or of rapping to the base just as it gets dark. That is a full, meaningful day. you brought tears to my eyes. that is totally what it is all about. and thank you. things are slowing down and changing as i am almost 35. I can feel it and see it. but i refuse to let it get me down. I am having a great time and because i am older, i appreciate all of it so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 you brought tears to my eyes. that is totally what it is all about. and thank you. things are slowing down and changing as i am almost 35. I can feel it and see it. but i refuse to let it get me down. I am having a great time and because i am older, i appreciate all of it so much. Oh my god 35 , your just a kid...reach up pull down, I didn't start really feal'n it till 50, you've got lot's of time, enjoy it! I think the years that were the most fun were the noob years ,except for the crul poser comments and most of those young studs got lives, morgage payments and beer bellys and don't climb anymore . Keep crank'n Muff Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 you brought tears to my eyes. that is totally what it is all about. and thank you. things are slowing down and changing as i am almost 35. I can feel it and see it. but i refuse to let it get me down. I am having a great time and because i am older, i appreciate all of it so much. Oh my god 35 , your just a kid...reach up pull down, I didn't start really feal'n it till 50, you've got lot's of time, enjoy it! I think the years that were the most fun were the noob years ,except for the crul poser comments and most of those young studs got lives, morgage payments and beer bellys and don't climb anymore . Keep crank'n Muff Dick is that why i am having a hard time finding a climbing boy friend??? maybe i need to date a man closer to 50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 is that why i am having a hard time finding a climbing boy friend??? maybe i need to date a man closer to 50 Cheap imatations are easy to find! The real deal might take you awhile. keep up the fight Muffster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 YO JOE with all the time you spend spraying on this site and training When do you have time to get laid? That rumor about a limp noodle isn't true is it? that would explain a lot about your attitude. DICK HEAD Your point? Something I said here? Or is it the other thread? True, I don't just rollover and play nice in terms of my ethics simply because they are no longer popular. If you check you'll see my cc postings are pretty damn sporatic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 For me that mainly means running despite the fact I find it incredibly unpleasant for the first 3-4 weeks. ... I'm about a week into it right now and working on starting the process of ramping my running up from 12 miles / week to 24-36 miles / week. Somewhere around 18 miles / week I'll throw in swimming. Whatever climbing I do always follows a run and I only do what I can with the surplus from the run; sometimes that's nothing at all, sometimes a little bouldering, and once or twice I've even gotten on a rope. My girlfriend is a physical therapist. Her co-workers practically worship her and she has been a huge help to me getting through some bouts with tendonitis. Her take on running after 50 is that you need to be very careful not to overdo it. If you injure a hip or knee joint, you still have to get to the bathroom, kitchen, work, chase the kids, and so-on. Healing typically takes longer and long term joint problems are common. Your 36 miles a week sounds reasonable. A little less would be wise if you are also humping a climbing pack up trails etc. Her point it so spread out the workout. Things like your swimming are a huge help. She has me on a total body workout which is easy for me since I work at home and found a Boflex for $150 at a garage sale. I keep the weights low and lots of repetitions (20-30). Now I have to cut back on the chocolate Easterbunnies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syudla Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 For me, a climbing has been Naw, really, just fukin whichya. 8D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 "you brought tears to my eyes." I have that effect on women. Hang in there Muff. Life is good. Bug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 it never fails that when i get really into my work out i get hurt or sick or something. the trainer i work out with is nearly as frustrated as i am. injuries and illness for me are a major set back. i just hope i have the big one out of the way this season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 "you brought tears to my eyes." I have that effect on women. Hang in there Muff. Life is good. Bug sure is, every moment of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 hey muffy i saw on 8a.nu today that some 50 yr. old Italian woman just climbed her first 13b, "and when she was 40 she could only climb 11d"... you have 5 years before you'll even need to start training and 15 years until the payoff : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 hey muffy i saw on 8a.nu today that some 50 yr. old Italian woman just climbed her first 13b, "and when she was 40 she could only climb 11d"... you have 5 years before you'll even need to start training and 15 years until the payoff : well so far i have only gotten better and stronger with age(a little rounder too, but oh well ) ... perhaps that will continue to be true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 For me, a climbing has been Naw, really, just fukin whichya. 8D that is definitely closer to the truth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 For me that mainly means running despite the fact I find it incredibly unpleasant for the first 3-4 weeks. ... I'm about a week into it right now and working on starting the process of ramping my running up from 12 miles / week to 24-36 miles / week. Somewhere around 18 miles / week I'll throw in swimming. Whatever climbing I do always follows a run and I only do what I can with the surplus from the run; sometimes that's nothing at all, sometimes a little bouldering, and once or twice I've even gotten on a rope. My girlfriend is a physical therapist. Her co-workers practically worship her and she has been a huge help to me getting through some bouts with tendonitis. Her take on running after 50 is that you need to be very careful not to overdo it. If you injure a hip or knee joint, you still have to get to the bathroom, kitchen, work, chase the kids, and so-on. Healing typically takes longer and long term joint problems are common. Your 36 miles a week sounds reasonable. A little less would be wise if you are also humping a climbing pack up trails etc. Her point it so spread out the workout. Things like your swimming are a huge help. She has me on a total body workout which is easy for me since I work at home and found a Boflex for $150 at a garage sale. I keep the weights low and lots of repetitions (20-30). Now I have to cut back on the chocolate Easterbunnies. I certainly appreciate the warning - I'm already on notice to take it easy on the swimming for my left shoulder. The conundrum is that either I give up my goals, or I give up the weight as doing what I have in mind above 172 will just be too hard on all off my joints and I've never been able to loose weight without running. I am just running on a treadmill at the climbing gym and am quite careful about it. In the end I will no doubt pay a price for some of this, and though shortsighted even at my age, I'm willing to pay it for the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 lol. As long as you have your priorities strait. One more thing, a soft running surface is much easier on your joints. Most treadmills are soft enough. I run at Weyona park off West Lake Sammamish Pkwy NE. The trails are re-barked every year. 3 to 4 inches of nice, soft bark. It also has some big hills and there is a nice 5-mile there-and-back thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 yeah climbing training books can be a turn off, but there can be some decent info too. i'm wondering though if you are doing an easy warm up, then working on boulder problems that you can't do moves on, maybe you aren't getting any serious training stimulus? i think of andre segovia of all people: 70% of his practice time was spent doing etudes and scales (easy stuff). or power-lifters who do way more reps or sets at 70% to 80% than near their max at 95% or 100%. if you climb v4 max, then maybe do lots and lots of v2's and maybe some v3's, but in good control, and get 'em wired and do them over and over again for a few weeks. volume i think would help more than pounding away at something where the moves are nearly undoable. it's kinda like trying to bench a certain weight: you don't try that weight over and over again, having it fall on to your chest and not move; it might be better and more fun to do lots of benches at a weight you can do at least a few times, then rest and do it again, with future workouts then using a higher weight, as fitness and strength improve, finally leading to the ability to do the max weight. oh and rainy day women is a sport climb at little si. the grade's a little controversial at 12a, with some thinking it's a bit soft, but whatever. it's a fun climb and a lot of the local's entry into the 5.12 region. nothing harder than v2 or v3 and good rests. you should get on it when you're in seattle in the fall. My warm ups are pretty easy, a brisk walk home then I start with using any hold moving slow and streching on most holds, never allowing myself to pump. The easy problem that follow can be done with eyes closed again focus is on warming up and streching. I have done what you have suggested for several months, basically I spent a long time working moderate problems to gain a base. Climbing at 70%-80% of my maximum, hard enough that it would take a couple of tries inorder to get it, but not easy enough to step right up and send, then able to do them whenever. After a while though my workouts were getting too long and my joints would ache. I still use a lot of those problems, when I am working the real hard stuff, where I am trying to figure out how to hold onto the hold type problem. Basically when I get to that part of the workout I will try the undoables and give them some earnest tries (2-5 tries) then when my attepts are futile, I hop on the moderates, and try to stay in control like you said, but they definitely feel harder because of the undoable tries. I guess it is a little different approach since I still am trying to really push. The nice thing is now I feel like am trying and sometime getting real difficult problem, but without the pain. Also I climbing through moderates with a pump. A few months down the road I will proabably have to readjust my routine again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 OK I admit it, I have started training...run'n laps at the crag and on my woody at home ...just can't stand climbing at a lower grade than I used to ...hope these old bones can hold together for another season. Does costco sell large bottles of vitiman A (advil) Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Seems to me like that at least when it comes to the question of continuing an activity from your youth in some fashion or another or abandoning it - conditioning is probably the least important factor of all. Old folks who are passionate about whatever it is that they do find a way to keep doing it - I've seen an old guy in a motorized wheelchair and an oxygen tank roll down to the bank of a river with a fly-rod and start casting away. The passion was still there, and he found a way to get himself to the shore, in spite of his physical limitations - not because he lacked them. I'm not sure I'll care too much how hard I'm climbing, skiing, or boating when I'm in my 60's or 70's if I'm fortunate enough to live that long I have no doubt that I'll be doing all of those things in some fashion or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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