JosephH Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 MisterMo posted up a cool shot of a concrete/bridge hand jam on the 'Wayback' thread. I'm guessing folks must know where some buildering/bridge/retaining wall cracks of various sizes are. If so post up a location and photo if you have one - otherwise we need to go on the hunt for them and post them up here. I could be way, way behind on all this as I basically don't jam anything, but am suddenly getting the urge to learn and don't have time to build a crack machine... Quote
kevbone Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 Kind of out of the way but relevant. Has anybody climbed “Sobriety Crack” in down town Flagstaff? If you have you know what I am talking about. It’s a beautiful fist crack between two buildings in the heart of Flag. It got its name from being in the middle of a climbing town with a bunch of bars in it. They say if you can climb it, your drunk and take your keys away. I have several pics of it on my computer of me and friends screwing around on it but was not able to download them into CC.com. I will try later. Quote
eldiente Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 I've seen a small hand crack on the Wells Fargo building downtown that might be doable. Although it is a bit shallow and about 100m long... Quote
Blake Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 Joseph, you spend dozens of days each year at beacon rock, and live within a day trip of Trout Creek. Why would you build a crack machine... go hop on the real thing and make yourself jam. Quote
JosephH Posted March 16, 2007 Author Posted March 16, 2007 I'm mainly only interested in it for granite. I don't know if I could bring myself to jam out at Beacon. To be honest it's the antithesis of everything I like about climbing. That, and where I came up there were no cracks so never developed a taste for it. Should learn though, but not out at Beacon, maybe Trout Creek, but I'd like some options here in town... Quote
John Frieh Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 Just a guess but "Dod's jam" out a beacon might have some jamming on it... just a guess. If we tell you where the local crack problems in PDX are do you promise not to bitch about people using chalk on them? Quote
kevbone Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 Just a guess but "Dod's jam" out a beacon might have some jamming on it... just a guess. If we tell you where the local crack problems in PDX are do you promise not to bitch about people using chalk on them? That funny John. Quote
dan_forester Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 if you're bad at jamming trout creek is a good place to go to feel extra humiliated. I almost threw a tantrum flailing on gold rush. Quote
JosephH Posted March 16, 2007 Author Posted March 16, 2007 Joseph...have you climbed Blownout? Kevin, I have no need of jams on Blownout at all. I stem and layback. Quote
markd Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 there is a hand crack over by the old prg. it's a block or so closer to hawthorne and up a block or two. Quote
kevbone Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 Joseph...have you climbed Blownout? Kevin, I have no need of jams on Blownout at all. I stem and layback. I take that as a yes? Quote
mythosgrl Posted March 16, 2007 Posted March 16, 2007 if jamming is the antithesis of everything you like about climbing, why are you keen to learn after 30 years of climbing without? Take a road trip up to Index some sunny spring weekend... Quote
JosephH Posted March 16, 2007 Author Posted March 16, 2007 myth, I keep finding myself drawn to the darkside (granite), more for the routes than the rock which I don't care much for. But is seems like it would come in handy to actual be able to climb some of those lines before I'm done... Quote
JosephH Posted March 16, 2007 Author Posted March 16, 2007 Mark, I'll go look for it...thanks... Quote
BillA Posted March 17, 2007 Posted March 17, 2007 I was flipping through Climbing rag at the gym today and noticed that some chick on goldrush at trout creek was displayed prominently in their photo annual. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted March 17, 2007 Posted March 17, 2007 don't have time to build a crack machine... I dont think you really need a crack machine or an urban crack to learn. You obviously know how to climb and place gear so just go get on it! Quote
Off_White Posted March 17, 2007 Posted March 17, 2007 Joseph, I'm just blown away. Old guard trad guy that you are, and you don't know how to jam? Have you never been climbing in the Valley? I'm flabbergasted. Lots of folks here can help build you a graduated tick list, you should quit your job and hit the road in about a month and don't come back until the end of June. Forget the concrete cracks, they're diverting entertainment, but no more like real crack climbing than the lowliest of gym cracks. Quote
JosephH Posted March 17, 2007 Author Posted March 17, 2007 Off, look at the pic back up thread from SoIll - the rock in Giant City SP didn't have a single crack or edge climb in it - it was all pockets, ribs, and knobs. We were all masters at laybacking. And given half our climbing and climbs was more about a person being able to just see and puzzle out one of our climbs we had little respect for crack climbs which were obvious and just a matter of being able to do them as seeing them was no challenge (also why we despised chalk). Hell, in Eldo we'd layback Supremacy Crack no problem. And pretty much everywhere I've been except the five days I was in the Valley in '00 I've been able to quite successfully never jam at a very high level of climbing. But it was all too obvious in that couple of days on slick, white granite that was not going to fly there. Given I'd like to do some more climbing there, particularly on the left half of Sentinel, I figure I better get the jamming thing down once and for all (or what's left of "all"). Quote
kevbone Posted March 18, 2007 Posted March 18, 2007 And pretty much everywhere I've been except the five days I was in the Valley in '00 I've been able to quite successfully never jam at a very high level of climbing. Ever think about going to Indian creek? I would love to watch you lay back Incredible Hand Crack. Quote
JosephH Posted March 18, 2007 Author Posted March 18, 2007 Yeah, the Creek looks like another place you pretty much have to have jamming skills. I see pics of lots of corners where you wouldn't, but on those blank walls with splitters and no side displacement you aren't going to get very far laybacking... Quote
BillA Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 That some chick is Britnay Griffith. Am I supposed to know who this is? Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted March 19, 2007 Posted March 19, 2007 go hang out below take a powder/sunshine d. she's the loud one. Quote
JosephH Posted March 19, 2007 Author Posted March 19, 2007 Off, I'm always up for a lesson from an old pro if you have somewhere up there... Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.