kevbone Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 That some chick is Britnay Griffith. Am I supposed to know who this is? No and yes......just another sponsored climber. Its kind of neat…she lives in Bend and climbs locally. So it’s nice to see one of our own make it in the climbing world. Who took the picture? Ben Moon? If so…..another local. A very nice local I might add. JH…I climbed Blownout with Ben Moon and watched him lay it back and stem the entire climb. Wow…..I said. So it can be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Just a guess but "Dod's jam" out a beacon might have some jamming on it... just a guess. If we tell you where the local crack problems in PDX are do you promise not to bitch about people using chalk on them? That funny John. I second that, good little laugh down in my belly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 Just a guess but "Dod's jam" out a beacon might have some jamming on it... just a guess. If we tell you where the local crack problems in PDX are do you promise not to bitch about people using chalk on them? John, sorry, somehow I completely missed this post until Kevin quoted it. On Dodd's I am basically forced to do one quasi/proto-jam until I can turn it into a layback. I say quasi/proto because if I'm doing it you couldn't really call it an intentional jam so much as a lucky clutch on the way to a layback. Hey, show some and even I may get a chalk bag... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Liebacking: the technique of no technique. And Joeseph, I'd love to see you try to stem and lieback an entire 130' corner route at the Creek. There's virtually no friction on the blank faces and it'd be like adding almost a full number to most of them. But you'd like the Wave, one of the few there that are best climbed as a lieback, and a stellar line as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Liebacking: the technique of no technique. And Joeseph, I'd love to see you try to stem and lieback an entire 130' corner route at the Creek. There's virtually no friction on the blank faces and it'd be like adding almost a full number to most of them. But you'd like the Wave, one of the few there that are best climbed as a lieback, and a stellar line as well. There is also the cave route at the creek....its in Donley Canyon and its about 60 feet of layback. I think its 5.10....JH you would love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillA Posted April 2, 2007 Share Posted April 2, 2007 go hang out below take a powder/sunshine d. she's the loud one. In retrospect this is probably the funniest thing I've ever read, as per my experience at Smith this weekend. Lollllllllerz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrygunJim Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 That some chick is Britnay Griffith. Am I supposed to know who this is? Yeah, they refer to her as the BAG in that photo...windBAG perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 Joseph, make yourself jam the cracks at beacon like Dodd's. Or else, take a road trip to Squamish or Index or somewhere else where you absolutely must jam. Basically if you want to learn to jam, quit laybacking routes that are classic straight-in jamming climbs. Sure it will feel tougher at first, but that's why it is part of learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 Joseph - Concrete cracks are great practice. In your everyday activities around town just look for concrete walls. In a very short time I bet you'll have a bunch of practice routes all about town. The only problem is the landings are usually pretty damn hard. A few years ago there was a fairly popular circuit in Kirkland. It was perfect for jogging/climbing or late night fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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