More Mountaineers Creek Ice and Mixed

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Mike (Colt45), Aaron (ZMAN), Eric (Eric8) and I headed out to mtnrs creek on saturday to survey the damage caused by the heat wave. As with most great ice trips, the day started with temps in the upper 30's at the parking lot. Seeing as it hadn't snowed in weeks, we opted to leave snowshoes in the car (mike didnt have any). 8 mile road involved endless postholing through a basically isothermal snowpack. Still, the approach wasn't too bad (with the exception of whoever was breaking trail). We figured the upstream ice crossing would have melted out, so we butt slid this knobby wet rotting log. We let aaron go first because he weighs the most.

 

(from Mike)

 

The good news is there is still a bunch of ice in the drainage. The bad news is it is basically all surface rotten. To start, Mike and Aaron started up the right corner of the broad flow left of "The Ten Essentials", while Eric and I checked out a "mixed" line between "Nametag on Helmet" and "The Ten Essentials" that we noticed on our first trip.

 

 

Aaron commented on generally poor ice conditions and dubious pro, but fun nonetheless.

 

The mixed line took a little longer to put together. Eric attempted a proud ground up ascent, but ultimately a dropped tool and blown hold (as well as other suspect blocks on route) prompted some top down cleaning and placement of two pitons. After taking a TR lap each, Eric made a seemingly effortless ascent on the in situ gear from his first attempt. Afterwards aaron and mike climbed the route too. We pulled our pins, but future ascents should be able to get by with small TCUs (particularly a blue TCU placed in the left seam above the obvious V slot).

 

 

 

"Basic Rock" M6-, Gear to 2" with doubles 1-3 TCU (optional preplaced KB)

 

Next, Eric and I checked out a pillar we had also looked at on our first visit. The pillar is located left of "The Ten Essentials" and right of "Gaiters on Slab." The pillar looked rotten and had a fracture across it, but a small KB crack just left of it gave some hope for a safe ascent. I was able to get a few marginal screws before the no hands rest next to the pillar. An awkward and strenuous piton placement gave me enough confidence to peer out from under the roof. From there I placed another easier pin and cautiously moved onto the pillar. Delicate tiptoeing got me past the pillar to a difficult to protect, albeit easy, exit. I finished traversing far left to the "Gaiters on Slab" belay tree.

 

 

Pink = "Gaiters on Slab" WI 3+

 

Green = "3 ft Picket" WI 4-

 

In the meantime, Aaron and Mike put up another line uphill and right of shorts over polypro. Aaron refused to name it, but we think "Aaron is a Mountie" is a fitting name.

 

 

Lots of fat ice left still.

 

I am convinced this is the best moderate ice crag in the state (doesn't come close to the desert for steep hard climbs). There are so many lines from WI2- to M-hard waiting to be climbed.

[eric8]

actually we left a bomber angle fixed...

[rob]

thx for the report.

[jstreet]

Incredible fun guys. Way to work it!

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice :tup:

 

That place is the Junkyards of Washington

[Alex]

Green = "3 ft Picket" WI 4-

 

Yeah we scoped that one out when we were there, it looked fun!

 

I am convinced this is the best moderate ice crag in the state (doesn't come close to the desert for steep hard climbs).

 

I agree with you. I haven't been in there except the one time, but if it forms up every year even remotely as well as it did this year, its the place to go for moderate mileage for sure.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

here are a few more pics from aaron

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 14, 2007 by TrogdortheBurninator

[tanstaafl]

And once again, if anyone lost a helmet at these climbs, pm me.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Was out again yesterday. The lower drainage is starting to suffer, however further up the climbs are in good shape. Mr seattle was still fat and blue. It gets almost no sun, so it will still probably be around for a while. The climbs to the left and right were swept by falling ice all day, so be weary of free hangers above. Ice climbing in march in 45 degree wweather is great.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Here are a couple pictures from the weekend: We lead the right side, then TR'd the middle.

 

 

 

Not too bad for march. The topout seemed to melt considerably throughout the day.

 

 

This 50 ft free hanger is about 10ft from touching down now. Another mini cold spell and who knows.

[iceslut]

i have never been to mountaineer's creek. for next year, what is the route from portland to this impressive ice arena? thanks!

[DirtyHarry]

Park at the elementary school in Leavenworth. Head up the obvious dirt road. You'll see it soon.

[DirtyHarry]

Park at the elementary school in Leavenworth. Head up the obvious dirt road behind the school. You'll see it soon.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Sweet renton granite.

 

Drive to leavenworth, take icicle creek rd to where it is no longer plowed (bridge creek campground). Park and walk up 8 mile rd for about 25 minutes. Whenever you feel like it, drop off the rd in to the Mtners Creek drainage. Cross the drainage and look up, you will see the ice. If you walk up stream more, you will see more ice. If you hike up the hill, you will see more ice.

[iceslut]

thanks...i have played up in the icicle creek drainage on a couple of occasions, but i was not aware that mountaineers creek was also in the vicinity. from the photos, it reminds me of some old stomping grounds in montucky.