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Posted

In this case, given it seems inextricably linked with bolting, I'd say 'sport tooling' would be a better description. And to some extent Kevin has a point - clipping bolts from a somewhat different form of aid may be fun (and called 'dry tooling'), but unless you just happen to be doing it to getting to some ice it is a fairly contrived activity. That's not to say it can't be fun, but let's agree to call a spade a spade - it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing.

Posted
let's agree to call a spade a spade - it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing.

 

A good diet of hard aid climbs, combined with lots of climbing on bolted mixed rigs, enables hard mixed trad ascents in the mountains. In other words, it's all just practice for the real thing. IMHO.

Posted

Dry tooling came about as a necessity in the Canadian Rockies and other colder climbing areas. You can't grip the rock with gloves on because the holds are too small, but you dare not touch the rock with you bare hands at <-20F lest you value your digits. The whole sport tooling came about as a way to practice this in a safer environment just the same as sport climbing was for alpine rock climbing. Of course, the circle of life must be completed with those who are less informed making statements about something they have no knowledge of. I do agree that one shouldn't be thrashing an established rock climbing route, and that it is destructive.

Posted
That's not to say it can't be fun, but let's agree to call a spade a spade - it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing.

 

Or Spade Climbing, for short. Like this:

 

zP4wayne2.jpg

 

 

 

 

Posted
Of course, the circle of life must be completed with those who are less informed making statements about something they have no knowledge of.

 

If you are referring to me….that is very true. I don’t know shit about the sport. Thus the thread.

Posted
That's not to say it can't be fun, but let's agree to call a spade a spade - it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing.

 

Or Spade Climbing, for short. Like this:

 

zP4wayne2.jpg

 

 

 

 

Dude that shit is sooooo contrived :rolleyes:

Posted
Of course, the circle of life must be completed with those who are less informed making statements about something they have no knowledge of.

 

If you are referring to me.that is very true. I dont know shit about the sport. Thus the thread.

 

Do you always start a conversation with your foot in your mouth? Shit, I don't know why I took you off my ignore list to read this. :noway:

Posted

Wasn't there a route in France that was drilled just to the reach of the FA'r so that he could use his "special move" at full extension to hook the drilled pockets. Called in M13 or something crazy and then the second ascent team used extra long tool shafts to complete the route :confused:

 

I think Jens was telling me about that :wave:

Posted
Wasn't there a route in France that was drilled just to the reach of the FA'r so that he could use his "special move" at full extension to hook the drilled pockets. Called in M13 or something crazy and then the second ascent team used extra long tool shafts to complete the route :confused:

 

I think Jens was telling me about that :wave:

 

What about the route Bubu Bole did and said "it is so hard, I simply grade it, 'M-Bubu!"

sickie sickie sickie

 

Then Haston climbed it a week later and rated it M10. :rolleyes:

Posted

 

Do you always start a conversation with your foot in your mouth? Shit, I don't know why I took you off my ignore list to read this.

 

What are you talking about? I started this thread to learn more about it. Sorry if you don’t approve of my style of questioning. Can’t help you there.

 

There is an ignore list? You ignore fellow posters? I feel sorry for you. Sounds like you have anguish! Try opening up a little bit.

 

You can say what you will. But I have LEARNED FROM THIS THREAD that this sport, dry tooling, for the most part is contrived. And you know what, it doesn’t change anything. Happy?

 

Posted

 

Do you always start a conversation with your foot in your mouth? Shit, I don't know why I took you off my ignore list to read this.

 

What are you talking about? I started this thread to learn more about it. Sorry if you dont approve of my style of questioning. Cant help you there.

 

There is an ignore list? You ignore fellow posters? I feel sorry for you. Sounds like you have anguish! Try opening up a little bit.

 

You can say what you will. But I have LEARNED FROM THIS THREAD that this sport, dry tooling, for the most part is contrived. And you know what, it doesnt change anything. Happy?

 

Your too easy Kevbone :lmao:

Posted
I just ordered a pair of 50 m ice tools. One move per pitch. I'm gonna be soooooo flashin'...

 

i use leashless ladders. lean them against the cliff and it's all good. climbing a ladder and climbing with tools and crampons are equivalent, right?

Posted
I just ordered a pair of 50 m ice tools. One move per pitch. I'm gonna be soooooo flashin'...

 

i use leashless ladders. lean them against the cliff and it's all good. climbing a ladder and climbing with tools and crampons are equivalent, right?

 

How many sherpas do you take with you on each trip?

Posted

i use leashless ladders. lean them against the cliff and it's all good. climbing a ladder and climbing with tools and crampons are equivalent, right?

 

Pretty much spot on G boy! :tup:

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