JosephH Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 In this case, given it seems inextricably linked with bolting, I'd say 'sport tooling' would be a better description. And to some extent Kevin has a point - clipping bolts from a somewhat different form of aid may be fun (and called 'dry tooling'), but unless you just happen to be doing it to getting to some ice it is a fairly contrived activity. That's not to say it can't be fun, but let's agree to call a spade a spade - it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing. Quote
kevbone Posted February 6, 2007 Author Posted February 6, 2007 it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing. Ha ha......he agreed with me. Quote
W Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 let's agree to call a spade a spade - it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing. A good diet of hard aid climbs, combined with lots of climbing on bolted mixed rigs, enables hard mixed trad ascents in the mountains. In other words, it's all just practice for the real thing. IMHO. Quote
joblo7 Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 they' were climbing , you are spraying. who is contrived,? Quote
joblo7 Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 agreeed!! as prep, its all useful! before go to real climbs. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 Dry tooling came about as a necessity in the Canadian Rockies and other colder climbing areas. You can't grip the rock with gloves on because the holds are too small, but you dare not touch the rock with you bare hands at <-20F lest you value your digits. The whole sport tooling came about as a way to practice this in a safer environment just the same as sport climbing was for alpine rock climbing. Of course, the circle of life must be completed with those who are less informed making statements about something they have no knowledge of. I do agree that one shouldn't be thrashing an established rock climbing route, and that it is destructive. Quote
Mr_Phil Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 That's not to say it can't be fun, but let's agree to call a spade a spade - it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing. Or Spade Climbing, for short. Like this: Quote
kevbone Posted February 6, 2007 Author Posted February 6, 2007 Of course, the circle of life must be completed with those who are less informed making statements about something they have no knowledge of. If you are referring to me….that is very true. I don’t know shit about the sport. Thus the thread. Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 That's not to say it can't be fun, but let's agree to call a spade a spade - it's pretty much a bastard child of aid-with-ice-tools crossed with sport climbing. Or Spade Climbing, for short. Like this: Dude that shit is sooooo contrived Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 Of course, the circle of life must be completed with those who are less informed making statements about something they have no knowledge of. If you are referring to me.that is very true. I dont know shit about the sport. Thus the thread. Do you always start a conversation with your foot in your mouth? Shit, I don't know why I took you off my ignore list to read this. Quote
G-spotter Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 It's eight feet between some of the holds. The bolts are further apart than the holds. Eight foot horizontal dyno. Lets see you do that with or without tools! Quote
G-spotter Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 For AlpineK, that's approximately 2.3 meters horizontal dyno BTW Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 Wasn't there a route in France that was drilled just to the reach of the FA'r so that he could use his "special move" at full extension to hook the drilled pockets. Called in M13 or something crazy and then the second ascent team used extra long tool shafts to complete the route I think Jens was telling me about that Quote
StevenSeagal Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 Wasn't there a route in France that was drilled just to the reach of the FA'r so that he could use his "special move" at full extension to hook the drilled pockets. Called in M13 or something crazy and then the second ascent team used extra long tool shafts to complete the route I think Jens was telling me about that What about the route Bubu Bole did and said "it is so hard, I simply grade it, 'M-Bubu!" sickie sickie sickie Then Haston climbed it a week later and rated it M10. Quote
kevbone Posted February 6, 2007 Author Posted February 6, 2007 Do you always start a conversation with your foot in your mouth? Shit, I don't know why I took you off my ignore list to read this. What are you talking about? I started this thread to learn more about it. Sorry if you don’t approve of my style of questioning. Can’t help you there. There is an ignore list? You ignore fellow posters? I feel sorry for you. Sounds like you have anguish! Try opening up a little bit. You can say what you will. But I have LEARNED FROM THIS THREAD that this sport, dry tooling, for the most part is contrived. And you know what, it doesn’t change anything. Happy? Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 I just ordered a pair of 50 m ice tools. One move per pitch. I'm gonna be soooooo flashin'... Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 Do you always start a conversation with your foot in your mouth? Shit, I don't know why I took you off my ignore list to read this. What are you talking about? I started this thread to learn more about it. Sorry if you dont approve of my style of questioning. Cant help you there. There is an ignore list? You ignore fellow posters? I feel sorry for you. Sounds like you have anguish! Try opening up a little bit. You can say what you will. But I have LEARNED FROM THIS THREAD that this sport, dry tooling, for the most part is contrived. And you know what, it doesnt change anything. Happy? Your too easy Kevbone Quote
G-spotter Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 I just ordered a pair of 50 m ice tools. One move per pitch. I'm gonna be soooooo flashin'... i use leashless ladders. lean them against the cliff and it's all good. climbing a ladder and climbing with tools and crampons are equivalent, right? Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 I just ordered a pair of 50 m ice tools. One move per pitch. I'm gonna be soooooo flashin'... i use leashless ladders. lean them against the cliff and it's all good. climbing a ladder and climbing with tools and crampons are equivalent, right? How many sherpas do you take with you on each trip? Quote
joblo7 Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 if there is some dick drytoolin' bolt clippin' and nobody to watch him ,is it really climbing.?? Quote
AlpineK Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 For AlpineK, that's approximately 2.3 meters horizontal dyno BTW Stick with english mesurements...you know you want to. Quote
joblo7 Posted February 6, 2007 Posted February 6, 2007 metering is soooo hard on american ego - brain -matter. Quote
kevbone Posted February 6, 2007 Author Posted February 6, 2007 i use leashless ladders. lean them against the cliff and it's all good. climbing a ladder and climbing with tools and crampons are equivalent, right? Pretty much spot on G boy! Quote
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