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Zodiac, even post clean-up is not bad. Most (98%) of it would go clean anyway. I'd take a selection of heads, beaks, and sawed offs.

 

Nipple pitch is trivial on tiny cams, inverted cam hooks, nuts, and then big cams at the end (double 4.5 camalots is very helpful and will get used again on the wide flake pitch off Peanut). Tech crux will be heads, probably on the zig zag roof above nipple unless they're fixed. Dangerous crux will be shallow boxy pin scars and some thin placements off the black tower. You can do a fair amount of cam hooking and leapfrogging offsets on this route.

 

We took two sets of alien hybrids and used them alot. Also took offset nuts and was glad to have them, especially the small brass in a couple of spots.

 

If you want to be prepared for the cruxes, I'd suggest practicing placing a bunch of heads (#1s and #2s) on boulders, especially in shallow corners, and maybe nailing or hand placing some sawed offs in boxy scars. On the final haul to the summit, either extend the haul over the edge (preferred), or have the second jug with or assist the bag...it's a shitty haul.

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the 16th pitch is the only pitch with the shitty haul, right? Zodiac seems so straight up and down, and overhanging on some, seems like hauling would be much easier than, say the Nose, where you have all the PIA lowerouts.

 

As heady as the Black Tower pitch seems, I've never read where someone zippered and decked on top of it. Also, seems the pitch into the grey circle is pretty outstanding, long section of micro nutting and camhooks. I'm picking and choosing my pitches as we write.

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There is a good pitch at index called skin graph or something its on the right side of the LTW its a steep arch to a rivet ladder. Its a Blair Williams route, Im not sure where it goes after the rivets thats the only part I've done. But you get to nail, so it will prepare you for the worst aid on zodiac.

Edited by corvallisclimb
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Some guy did break a pelvis on a fall onto the Black Tower. With pins you can make it safe enough.

 

Popular solo because it's short, steep, great features, and easy as far as ElCap routes go.

 

Last haul is the only bad one, and that's only because of the lip. Some pitches wander a bit, requiring a little lower out, but most hauls are free hanging. The top out is literally like pulling over onto a sidewalk. You're on a 90 degree wall, then you're on horizontal ground..no low angle broken terrain between.

 

2nd pitch roof, black tower pitch, Nipple pitch (really all the circle pitches), Zigzag roof, pitch up to and pitch off peanut were all memorable.

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The Nipple Pitch

So, is this on upper wall or lower wall?

Actually it's the practice crag behind the school in Renton.

 

We climbed Zodiac in Sept clean (i.e. without hammering) except for one Stick clip move past a blown copperhead on Alt p1. Gear list is in the Beta forum on Supertaco. The good thing is that the first pitch of Zodiac is easier to find than the first pitch of Thin Red Line. :P

 

Above The Black Tower

 

Yos%20012%20Black%20Tower.jpg

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to much information. charlie porter put this route up solo in '72. i think everyboby is giving you to much info. standard wall rack includes doubles in stoppers & cams, a fish hook & two skyhooks(grind one down for rivet holes) about 5 #2 heads & some small sawed off angles whick you can probably hand place and not hammer. this is all you need to know. go make a photo copy of the route and have fun. i did this route in less in a day, a third of it with a broken finger, and i suck at climbing compared to all you bad-assess out there.

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The Nipple Pitch

Above The Black Tower

 

Yos%20012%20Black%20Tower.jpg

 

this looks like a Tom Evans photo. Nice.

 

I agree, the 1st pitch of TRL is a bit tricky to spot. We flailed the 1st time, having started too far right of where we should have been. On subsequent tries, we jnust look for the bolts 1/2 way up and a bit left on the pitch, right below the chain anchor belay. Pretty fun pitch it is.

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